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1 hour ago, mopardave said:

My plan is to start on the bottom with first piece. Trim it flush, then sides and top.   Once glued, how long before I can trim?

A couple more things.  What oil do I use on the Italian Zebrawood if I go that route and if I shall go the satin poly, will I need to sand the veneer first?   What grit should I use?   Thanks

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9 hours ago, mopardave said:

how long before I can trim?

If you are using the iron method, the glue is essentially dry and when heated, melts.  So once completely cool you should be fine.  Just be very careful cutting the edges.  Titebond II has a remelt of up to 7 hours I believe.  After that you could be in trouble.

I actually did mine just after the titebond was dry (kind of a tack to it).  Seemed to melt easier and stay in place easier. 

 

For sanding, you might want to go with 220 very lightly then I like to use oil with #0000 steel wool.  Takes a little time but will give a great luster. If you are not as worried about damage from drinks and stuff being set on the speakers, you might want to use tung oil.  Several coats with steel wool so you can avoid messing with the poly.

 

I'm definitely not an expert like some here but was happy with my first large job using inexpensive maple veneer.

 

Home_brew-l.jpg

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This is what I use to trim the edges. It cuts flush and then the edge requires light sanding. When cutting across the grain though, do not end the cut at the end of the panel. Start at both ends and finish in the middle. Certain species like to tear at the end of the cut down the grain. When cutting with the grain it won’t matter.

 

I vote for tung oil as well. You have better control over the luster. If you are worried about someone setting a drink on your beautiful completed speakers I would invite that person to enjoy viewing them from outside looking through a window. Then lock the door.

 

 

F437D1CD-AE0D-4FA8-A2F8-7FCEB0C0A7AE.jpeg

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51 minutes ago, No.4 said:

This is what I use to trim the edges. It cuts flush and then the edge requires light sanding. When cutting across the grain though, do not end the cut at the end of the panel. Start at both ends and finish in the middle. Certain species like to tear at the end of the cut down the grain. When cutting with the grain it won’t matter.

 

I vote for tung oil as well. You have better control over the luster. If you are worried about someone setting a drink on your beautiful completed speakers I would invite that person to enjoy viewing them from outside looking through a window. Then lock the door.

 

 

F437D1CD-AE0D-4FA8-A2F8-7FCEB0C0A7AE.jpeg

Second all the above, particularly about setting something on the speakers.  Also using a fine file works well along with the sandpaper.

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3 hours ago, pzannucci said:

If you are using the iron method, the glue is essentially dry and when heated, melts.  So once completely cool you should be fine.  Just be very careful cutting the edges.  Titebond II has a remelt of up to 7 hours I believe.  After that you could be in trouble.

I actually did mine just after the titebond was dry (kind of a tack to it).  Seemed to melt easier and stay in place easier. 

 

For sanding, you might want to go with 220 very lightly then I like to use oil with #0000 steel wool.  Takes a little time but will give a great luster. If you are not as worried about damage from drinks and stuff being set on the speakers, you might want to use tung oil.  Several coats with steel wool so you can avoid messing with the poly.

 

I'm definitely not an expert like some here but was happy with my first large job using inexpensive maple veneer.

 

Home_brew-l.jpg

Nice work.  I have a bunch of veneer left over, so I will try both the tung oil and the satin poly and see what looks best to me.    The tung oil would definitely be easier.

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2 hours ago, No.4 said:

This is what I use to trim the edges. It cuts flush and then the edge requires light sanding. When cutting across the grain though, do not end the cut at the end of the panel. Start at both ends and finish in the middle. Certain species like to tear at the end of the cut down the grain. When cutting with the grain it won’t matter.

 

I vote for tung oil as well. You have better control over the luster. If you are worried about someone setting a drink on your beautiful completed speakers I would invite that person to enjoy viewing them from outside looking through a window. Then lock the door.

 

 

F437D1CD-AE0D-4FA8-A2F8-7FCEB0C0A7AE.jpeg

What brand of tung oil?     I have a router with a downward spiral bit that I will be using to trim.   That does look like a nice little trimmer.    If I can find one at Home Depot today i'll pick one up. Can't have enough tools.

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38 minutes ago, mopardave said:

What brand of tung oil?     I have a router with a downward spiral bit that I will be using to trim.   That does look like a nice little trimmer.    If I can find one at Home Depot today i'll pick one up. Can't have enough tools.

Problem with a router is sometimes the bearing spins some and burns the veneer.  You need to be very careful if you do it that way, maybe using masking tape where the router bit will run against.

 

The Watco oils are very good.  Much easier than trying to use a poly and you can lay it on to your desired level.  The more you add, the more your protection.

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36 minutes ago, pzannucci said:

Problem with a router is sometimes the bearing spins some and burns the veneer.  You need to be very careful if you do it that way, maybe using masking tape where the router bit will run against.

 

The Watco oils are very good.  Much easier than trying to use a poly and you can lay it on to your desired level.  The more you add, the more your protection.

I do have the carbide double bearing but, but I will apply some tape on the veneer just in case.

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11 hours ago, pzannucci said:

Problem with a router is sometimes the bearing spins some and burns the veneer.  You need to be very careful if you do it that way, maybe using masking tape where the router bit will run against.

 

The Watco oils are very good.  Much easier than trying to use a poly and you can lay it on to your desired level.  The more you add, the more your protection.

Picked up some tung oil today as well as some satin urethane.   I have some samples from oakwood I picked up while down there and did half oil and half urethane.  I think the oil gives the wood a darker appearance and I like the oil best.     Made some practice trims with the router and everything looks good.    Will get started in the morning.

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7 hours ago, mopardave said:

Picked up some tung oil today as well as some satin urethane.   I have some samples from oakwood I picked up while down there and did half oil and half urethane.  I think the oil gives the wood a darker appearance and I like the oil best.     Made some practice trims with the router and everything looks good.    Will get started in the morning.

:emotion-21:

The oil penetrates and brings out the wood tones.  Not like a dried up old board.

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4 hours ago, pzannucci said:

:emotion-21:

The oil penetrates and brings out the wood tones.  Not like a dried up old board.

Didn't know it worked that well.   Yes brings the grains out much nicer.    Waiting for the glue to dry on the raw wood heresy bottoms.  Will be getting started in about 30 minutes.   Should be fun.

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2 hours ago, mopardave said:

Didn't know it worked that well.   Yes brings the grains out much nicer.    Waiting for the glue to dry on the raw wood heresy bottoms.  Will be getting started in about 30 minutes.   Should be fun.

Works as regular oil does and brings out the natural tones.  Doesn't add anything substantial. 

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4 hours ago, finallygotmyheresies said:

The links I have to other helpful veneering threads are broken and lead to an internal error. Groomlakearea51 had so much good info on his Heresy and Cornwall restorations. It's really sad that it's gone.

I have been busy all day with the project.  Had all the big pieces glued on by 1:00. The little pieces are tedious.  Just about done, just taking a break. Will post some pics latter.

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