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Klipschorn problem


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13 minutes ago, babadono said:

So where does one go from here? If you think you have a partially shorted voice coil and you don't want to jump and buy a new one until you are certain. What about the woofer in the other cabinet? Is it reading the same?

 

Thank you for 'crystalizing' my thoughts....

 

Is that my next move?  De-solder a lead and check and check the resistance on the other speaker?

Edited by Douglas Bubbletrousers
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8 minutes ago, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

 

Would my lower reading yield the 'duller', quieter sound I think I''m getting?

 

Again, thanks to all for the help!

If the insulation of voice coil wire has heated up to the point melting and shorting out some turns of the coil I would say "who the heck knows what that's supposed to sound like".

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The fact that the readings are essentially the same for each woofer using each meter indicates to me the resistance is not the problem. 

 

Have you tried switching the networks to see if the “duller” sound follows the network.  If that is inconclusive, I’d consider swapping the woofers to see if the “duller” sound follows the woofer to the other cabinet.

 

If I were convinced the problem is the woofer, I’d recone or replace both woofers.

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8 minutes ago, DizRotus said:

The fact that the readings are essentially the same for each woofer using each meter indicates to me the resistance is not the problem. 

 

Have you tried switching the networks to see if the “duller” sound follows the network.  If that is inconclusive, I’d consider swapping the woofers to see if the “duller” sound follows the woofer to the other cabinet.

 

If I were convinced the problem is the woofer, I’d recone or replace both woofers.

 

 

I've switched cables, and I've switched out the amp for a different one...

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1 minute ago, babadono said:

Have you hooked your amp directly to the woofer(s) now that everything is disconnected? Don't get too happy with the volume knob.

 

I thought I did that before (I've started to lose track of the 'permutations.')

 

I got a slightly 'brighter' sound, but still not very much louder than it was before...

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I have ZERO knowledge about electrical engineering (like you couldn't tell!), so what are the fuses in this system there to protect/prevent?

 

And why wouldn't having the wrong ones installed (20 AMP on both sides on the 'main' circuit, instead of 2.5's...) be an issue?

 

Again, my engineering 'skills' fall into the "Fire - Bad !!!" kind of level....

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Just now, babadono said:

And I thought you still had the parts on the woofer door connected:) So which were it?

 

I haven't tried it on the left speaker (the one I just disconnected). 

 

I probably should have, but since the symptoms and resistances were all coming out the same, I didn't do that one...

 

I'll try now...

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4 minutes ago, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

 

I haven't tried it on the left speaker (the one I just disconnected). 

 

I probably should have, but since the symptoms and resistances were all coming out the same, I didn't do that one...

 

I'll try now...

 

 

It sounds like the other one did when I did the same experiment...  A little 'fuller" (i.e. I can hear the upper registers a little better) but everything - including the bass - still sounds muffled and muddy)

 

Thanks again for everyone's efforts here - I have a 'thing' here tonight for which I have to leave, so I'll be offline for the rest of the day...

 

Thanks again - I really appreciate everyone's help!  I am learning a ton!

 

DB

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1 minute ago, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

I have ZERO knowledge about electrical engineering (like you couldn't tell!), so what are the fuses in this system there to protect/prevent?

 

And why wouldn't having the wrong ones installed (20 AMP on both sides on the 'main' circuit, instead of 2.5's...) be an issue?

 

Again, my engineering 'skills' fall into the "Fire - Bad !!!" kind of level....

They are there to protect the drivers for sure. And yes having a 20 amp fuse where a 2 and 1/2 should be is not good practice. But the 2 and 1/2 amp fuse only lets 25 watts continuous to be dissipated by the woofer. With a KHorn that should Damn loud but perhaps the PO got tired of blowing a fuse occasionally. But 20 amps? Too much. Because now your not protecting it much at all, in fact really not at all. But maybe that's all he had handy.

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On 8/22/2019 at 5:08 PM, DizRotus said:

 

 

If I were convinced the problem is the woofer, I’d recone or replace both woofers.

 

If I need to, I can deal with that...  Doesn't Crites have them for $310/pair...?

 

I just don't want to replace them only to find out there's an 'electronic' problem (i.e. inducer, capacitor, etc.) that I missed...

 

Thanks again all!

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If it was an electronic problem, then you would have diagnosed that when you bypassed the crossover (direct connection to the woofer). The sound would have a bit more energy in the highs, but it would not have changed the "muffled and muddy" problem. BTW, it is unlikely that the inductor would be the culprit since they are usually pretty robust. Capacitors, however, can degrade over time, although the change is sometimes subtle and gradual.

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