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Klipschorn problem


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Agreed.

 

Though there is perhaps one more thing to try for cheap.  A 60 Hz tone should get cleanly through the crossover to the woofer and is both easy to find and easy to measure the voltage of.  In order to check the low-pass section without a test bench, I'd be inclined to "play" (only) some hum to the speaker and compare the AC voltage levels between the crossover input and woofer output.  Should be very nearly the same both places.  If there's substantial difference then I'd get the test bench involved.

 

Also, prior to disassembling the speaker further I'd get a calibrated mike (gonna need it anyway) and run some sweeps just to see if I was really hearing what I thought I was.  If I'd been listening to, say, old Cerwin Vegas and switched to something else, then thought the bass was lacking, well, it might not actually be...

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Desoldering was bad advice. You could have easily damaged the VC leads or the insulation on the VC itself.

 

The capacitor in parallel in the low pass part of the filter has zero effect on a DCR measurement. The coil in series would be minimal.

 

If you haven't changed out the batteries in your meter(s) in a while, do it now. Make sure you zero out the meter before taking the measurement. 

 

You can take the DCR measurement using the unused terminals (tabs) on the woofer(s). No need to desolder anything!

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4 hours ago, Deang said:

Desoldering was bad advice. You could have easily damaged the VC leads or the insulation on the VC itself.

 

The capacitor in parallel in the low pass part of the filter has zero effect on a DCR measurement. The coil in series would be minimal.

 

If you haven't changed out the batteries in your meter(s) in a while, do it now. Make sure you zero out the meter before taking the measurement. 

 

You can take the DCR measurement using the unused terminals (tabs) on the woofer(s). No need to desolder anything!

 

I will give it a try, but the digital meter is brand new with brand new batteries, and while the analog one is NOT new, it, too, has a fairly new battery....  They were both giving me the same reading....

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20 hours ago, mikebse2a3 said:

If you connect  a 1.5 v battery to the woofer does it move the cone in/out relatively freely.. ?

 

 Just thinking resistance measured seems a little off so if woofers were overdriven the voice coil could be damaged and somewhat frozen. 

 

That would seem to be a possibility...  Especially since the wrong fuses were in them (but what do I know...?)

 

Haven't tried that yet.  I will try it...

 

Thanks again  to all for all the ideas!

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Here's another tip

 

if you dismount your K33E, try to gently push the membrane on the side of the dome dust cover: if you hear a sound of rubbing is that the coil rubs in the air gap. If so, you can repair the speaker or change it, if possible make it on the 2 speakers 👍

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  • 5 months later...

If anyone is still 'out there..."

 

Sorry I went dark...  Life 'happened'...  First grandchild born, etc., etc.  Six months later, I'm looking at the speakers, and I'm right back at Square One...

 

Figured 'screw it!' it MUST be the woofers, so I invested in a pair of Crites best.

 

Installed, double checked polarity/continuity on speaker cables, etc.

 

Fired the system up, and it's exactly the same as before...  The midrange and tweeter are bright and clear, and there's virtually nothing from the woofer.  Just seems like it's 20% of what it should be (and was).  Hooked up a different amp, and no difference...

 

"Test bench' recommendations go way over my head....  I can screw/unscrew, unsolder/resolder, and cuss a lot, but the advanced electronic analysis is not a possibility...

 

Any other ideas...?  What am I missing?

 

Thanks!

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20 hours ago, Douglas Bubbletrousers said:

If anyone is still 'out there..."

 

Sorry I went dark...  Life 'happened'...  First grandchild born, etc., etc.  Six months later, I'm looking at the speakers, and I'm right back at Square One...

 

Figured 'screw it!' it MUST be the woofers, so I invested in a pair of Crites best.

 

Installed, double checked polarity/continuity on speaker cables, etc.

 

Fired the system up, and it's exactly the same as before...  The midrange and tweeter are bright and clear, and there's virtually nothing from the woofer.  Just seems like it's 20% of what it should be (and was).  Hooked up a different amp, and no difference...

 

"Test bench' recommendations go way over my head....  I can screw/unscrew, unsolder/resolder, and cuss a lot, but the advanced electronic analysis is not a possibility...

 

Any other ideas...?  What am I missing?

 

Thanks!

If your amp is good and the wire/connector path from amp to speaker is correct, then your problem has to be the crossover. If you previously bypassed the crossover and wired directly to the woofer, I have to ask: Was the crossover still connected? If it was and you still got low sound, you might have a short in the crossover. With the new woofers, I'm assuming the wires are no longer soldered: Disconnect the crossover from the woofer and wire directly to the woofer, amp directly to woofer with nothing else connected and try the sound.

298381990_2020-02-0918_19_06.thumb.jpg.f2aac14271041ba526e5ea05027271d7.jpg

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