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POOKY

Klipschorn problem

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Fortunately I just started work for a company that does studio/pa hire and repair so I'm hoping some of the guys there might be able to help :)

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5 minutes ago, POOKY said:

Fortunately I just started work for a company that does studio/pa hire and repair so I'm hoping some of the guys there might be able to help :)

Another great option.   They see issues like this all the time I'm certain and I'm sure this would be an easy field repair for one of them.   

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The fuse for the woofer is a 2 1/2 amp AGC (fast blow).

 

The fuse for the top section is a 1 1/4 amp AGC 

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Wouldn't the fuse be marked?  And, look at Dean's post above.

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@Deang thank you sir, I'll have a look this week and let you all know how I got on. Thank you all for your kind help 

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@Khornukopia  not trying to argue but curious why you say a higher than rated fuse is not dangerous?  fuses have ratings for a reason, to protect the item in the circuit from a short or over power.  using a higher rated fuse than designed can damage or blow the item its protecting. 

 

yes some other speakers dont have fuses... & guess what happens when you over power them or have a short?  the drivers blow & you get to replace them.  fuses help to prevent that from happening.  klipsch designed this era K-horn with fuses for a reason, probably a good idea to use the correct rated fuse.   

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23 hours ago, Khornukopia said:

There were a few different rated fuses used with the AK series of crossovers, and replacements for the old ones may be hard to find, but for the bass bin, I think it is okay to use a 4 amp or slightly higher automotive fuse, depending on what is available.

 

A higher rated fuse is not dangerous,         considering that most speakers don't even have a fuse. 

  

1 hour ago, EpicKlipschFan said:

@Khornukopia  not trying to argue but curious why you say a higher than rated fuse is not dangerous?  

 

… , probably a good idea to use the correct rated fuse.   

 

Yes it is probably a good idea to use the correct rated fuse.

 

I added my caveat "considering that most speakers don't even have a fuse" because many years ago, former forum member (?) EpicCF4Fan  argued with me for using the wrong TYPE of correctly rated fuse on my Klipschorns, that for all practical purposes will never blow a fuse.

 

Please tell us what you are doing about the MILLIONS of loudspeakers that DO NOT have any fuses.

 

 

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just a logical suggestion to stick with the correct type & value of fuse... they make fast & slow blow fuses for a reason.

 

funny, im "epiccf4fan",  i just changed my user name awhile ago to epicklipschfan since im a fan of most all klipsch speakers, not just cf4's.  & i dont recall "arguing" with you about that at all.  same as with these comments, its not an argument just an exchange of ideas/opinions...  but i will say the same thing, klipsch designed the speakers with a specific type & value of fuse, why would you even consider changing that based on your opinion that they dont need to be the same fuses?  you're free to do what you want with your speakers/gear but myself & the majority of others choose to stick with what the manufacturer designed.  same for cars or houses that use fuses, not a good idea to up the value of a fuse, just asking for trouble or fires etc. 

 

& the whole "well other speakers dont use fuses" doesnt really apply here, we're talking about k-horns that have expensive drivers & the tweeter is very fragile compared to "other speakers." 

 

as for what im doing about the MILLIONS of other speakers that DO NOT have fuses... they are either designed with different drivers such as ferro-fluid cooling, or are a stronger type of driver/voice coil than a k-horn tweeter, or handle more power, or some have resetting breakers etc etc... or as i mentioned earlier, if they are over powered the driver blows or is damaged & you get to buy a new one.  or just dont overdrive them... 

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On ‎1‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 9:09 AM, POOKY said:

Hi, one of my Klipschorns bass drivers is not functioning, ...

 

On ‎1‎/‎8‎/‎2019 at 10:27 AM, Khornukopia said:

for the bass bin, I think it is okay to use a 4 amp or slightly higher automotive fuse, depending on what is available. 

 

I just thought I would review my initial recommendation, so I don't cause any serious damage. Have a nice day!

 

IMG_67161.jpg.175b9f2d03349d2cbde4d34945f9638f.jpg

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Interesting. I got the 2 1/2 number directly off of the schematic. 

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1 hour ago, Deang said:

Interesting. I got the 2 1/2 number directly off of the schematic. 

 

They used several different fuse ratings over the years. Does not seem to be critical with the Heritage speakers, since most were designed without fuses.

 

For the record, I do agree with @EpicKlipschFan on the subject of fuses in general, that it is probably a good idea to use the correct rated fuse.

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On 1/9/2019 at 10:47 AM, EpicKlipschFan said:

@Khornukopia  not trying to argue but curious why you say a higher than rated fuse is not dangerous?  fuses have ratings for a reason, to protect the item in the circuit from a short or over power.  using a higher rated fuse than designed can damage or blow the item its protecting. 

 

 

 

2.5 amps is 37.5 watts.  An AGC fuse will allow ~2x the current if heated slowly.  So, a 5 amp fuse would not be "dangerous", just not conservative. 

 

Pooky , those are common automotive fuses from the MG days.  We have them by the bushel in auto parts stores, still, on this side of the pond. 

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Just wrap some aluminum foil around the fuse and see if it play's :)    

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On ‎1‎/‎9‎/‎2019 at 11:36 AM, Khornukopia said:

  

 

Yes it is probably a good idea to use the correct rated fuse.

 

I added my caveat "considering that most speakers don't even have a fuse" because many years ago, former forum member (?) EpicCF4Fan  argued with me for using the wrong TYPE of correctly rated fuse on my Klipschorns, that for all practical purposes will never blow a fuse.

 

Please tell us what you are doing about the MILLIONS of loudspeakers that DO NOT have any fuses.

 

 

All the money I have spent on Networks, drivers and wiring, the first thing that went on my Indy LS's and K's were the fuses.  Don't want my signal going through them with pressure or spring related contacts. My ignorance works and helps me sleep at night.

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Hi All,

 

A newb here, too...

 

Bought my Klipschorns here locally (Seattle area) about a year ago, and I'm currently suffering the same sort of problem as Pooky - only on BOTH speakers.  They have the AK-3 crossovers, and IIRC, the previous owner said they were 1998-ish vintage.

 

When I bought them I thought they sounded amazing, but then I wasn't able to use them for a few months and when I went to listen again, they sounded like there was almost no bass anymore.

 

I DO have them tight up in room corners, and I've checked as many connections as I can find (most all of them seem to be soldered and not nut and screw connections).  When I unplug the connections for the upper horns, I DO hear a little coming from the bass cabinets, but I would say it's 5% of what it should be/what it was...)

 

I went to check my fuses, and found that mine are listed as 1.25 A for the upper horns, and 2.5 A for the bass.  When I pulled the upper fuses, one had the correct 1.25A fuse, while the other had a WADDED UP PIECE OF FOIL!!  The real shock came when I pulled the fuses for the bass cabinets...  Both were 20 AMP fuses, and not the 2.5 A that were supposed to be there...

 

I do not listen at room-shaking volumes, so I'm wondering what could have happened to make the bass speakers work so weakly now...

 

When I purchased them, the P.O. was powering them with a nice McIntosh amp.  I don't have one of those, but mine is a better-than-average Yamaha amp rated at 100 watts/channel.  The only 'issue" I can think of is that one time, when I was hooking up a new turntable, my hand bumped the MM/MC switch on the back of the amp when an album was playing, and things got very loud for a second before I bumped the switch back...

 

Do these symptoms sound familiar to anyone?  Do capacitors fail in the bass cabinets, or something weird like that...  I can't figure out why both are bad at the same time now...

 

Any help/ideas would be greatly appreciated!

 

DB

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On 1/8/2019 at 12:32 PM, POOKY said:

Maybe something like that above

One other easy thing to check is to disconnect any connection that is NOT soldered and clean it with a little sandpaper or anything to scratch the surface of the connection.

 

Once I had bought a speaker with a non working mid horn even though the connection was very tight it would not make contact. After a little cleaning it worked fine.

The strange part was you could see no corrosion or anything out of the normal but it was not making contact even being as tight as it was to disconnect.   It was a little hard to imagine but worked great after a little cleaning. I would guess wires under a screw could do the same thing or any connection, I guess it's just a film or invisible corrosion of some sort on the metal itself causing them to loose contact ?

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