joessportster Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Wondering if there are any other folks that Bi-amp here and how you go about level matching. I mostly go by ear but will admit that may not be the best way to set up a speaker. at times with certain material I feel like things are bass shy and yet at other times it sounds like bass overload. I realize SOURCE is and will be an issue in this regard. I am just trying to see if there is a technical approach Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 We need some more info. Is this a passive crossover inside the cabinet and what is the ballpark crossover point? Do you have a volt meter (does not need to be fancy)? How are overall levels being handled (pre-amp?)? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
babadono Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 No, nobody here bi -amps Nothing to see here, move along. But seriously PrestonTom has asked the beginning questions. Are you talking about active or passive? If active you will get plenty of help here. But first you will need a calibrated microphone and a computer running REW(or similar). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Edgar Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 There are all sorts of technical approaches. I find that my ear generally does a better job. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 I'm not sure if you're bi-amping stereo or multi-channel, and with what AVR. I can bi-amp the L/R and still have a 7.2 system with my Marantz 6011 which has 9 internal amps. I actually prefer to NOT bi-amp because when I don't use the otherwise un-used amps there is more dynamic power for the rest of the speakers, including the L/R. Ask me about bi-wiring. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 Actually my question was rather simple. If he is bi-amping into passive crossover (eg with removable brass straps across the two sections) then simply put in a tone (recorded onto a CD) and make sure the AC voltage is the same going into both "sections" . This assumes a preamp (master volume control) with its outputs split into two amplifiers. But no one can give any sensible advice until we find out what the circuit is (a measurement mic may not be necessary at all). Any advice at this point is bound to be misguided. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wvu80 Posted January 30, 2019 Share Posted January 30, 2019 26 minutes ago, PrestonTom said: If he is bi-amping into passive crossover (eg with removable brass straps across the two sections) then simply put in a tone (recorded onto a CD) and make sure the AC voltage is the same going into both "sections" . This assumes a preamp (master volume control) with its outputs split into two amplifiers I was working on the assumption he had a stereo amp/receiver that supported both A and B channels for two sets of stereo speakers. I thought maybe he wanted to use both stereo circuits to bi-amp. If so, I don't know how that would work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PrestonTom Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 You are absolutely correct. We don't know what he has or what he is up to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
suresh230274 Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Wondering if there are any other folks that Bi-amp here and how you go about level matching. I mostly go by ear but will admit that may not be the best way to set up a speaker. at times with certain material I feel like things are bass shy and yet at other times it sounds like bass overload. I realize SOURCE is and will be an issue in this regard. I am just trying to see if there is a technical approach JoeI’m planning to bi amp my jbl 530’s but if it will increase the bass then how much can it increase as the jbl530’s only have a 5 inch midbass driver. I still have to rely on my yamaha yst 1200 subwoofer. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
theluggman Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 Bi-amping my Klipschorns was the best thing I did in my 30+ year audio journey. Using an active crossover, utilizing a pair of tube amps for the highs and SS for the woofer. Basically this gives a sweeter warm mid and highs as well as allowing a higher damping factor SS amp for stronger AND tighter bass. Having an active crossover allows easy adjustment of matching levels, and if possible timing can also be corrected. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joessportster Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 16 hours ago, PrestonTom said: We need some more info. Is this a passive crossover inside the cabinet and what is the ballpark crossover point? Do you have a volt meter (does not need to be fancy)? How are overall levels being handled (pre-amp?)? Tom Im using an active Marchand XM-9 X-over, Both amps have gain controls as does the crossover flea watt Tubes on top and SS crown on bass, I am currently crossing at 150 Hz. I would like to cross higher but I do not like it when vocals are coming from both the high and low drivers. Yes I have a great volt meter. And yes I use a mod wright pre for overall volume The speakers are Open Baffle Goldwood 1851 18" on the bottom , and audio nirvana 15" classics on top all drivers are supposed to be 8 OHM Goldwood advertised sensitivity is 94.3 https://www.parts-express.com/pedocs/specs/290-386-goldwood-gw-1858-specifications.pdf Classic 15 advertised sensitivity is 92 https://www.commonsenseaudio.com/an15classicalnicospecs.jpg Joe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joessportster Posted January 31, 2019 Author Share Posted January 31, 2019 15 hours ago, babadono said: No, nobody here bi -amps Nothing to see here, move along. But seriously PrestonTom has asked the beginning questions. Are you talking about active or passive? If active you will get plenty of help here. But first you will need a calibrated microphone and a computer running REW(or similar). I have both rew already downloaded and a umic, Sorry so slow to respond got all tied up with other crap and this slipped my mind which happens all to often now days Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted January 31, 2019 Share Posted January 31, 2019 If you can install REW and get it to recognize your UMIK-1, you can also download the calibration data file from the miniDSP web site for your particular microphone serial number. This will calibrate your setup. Once you do this, then you can connect your computer to your preamplifier via a soundcard or USB or HDMI bus (ignoring the calibration stuff in the following video--because the UMIK-1 is automatically calibrated once you download and install its serial-number-specific calibration file, shown above). Then run an upsweep. You don't have to digest all of the following YouTube video, but you can refer back to it as you have questions on its use and interpretation of measurements: You will then be able to accurately set your channel levels...and also do a little EQing at the same time to flatten the in-room response of your setup. Chris Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted February 3, 2019 Share Posted February 3, 2019 What I did was use the UMK1 and REW to match the out put of the horn to the bass bin. Since I ran a sub, I would set that a little hot to get more bottom end. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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