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thebes

Something New In Soldering

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These items in the latest Parts Express catalogue caught my eye.  Waterproof Solder Butt Connectors in various gauges and color coded. Sold in ten packs from $8 to $10 depending on gauge.  Not particularly cheap but interesting nonetheless.

 

https://www.parts-express.com/Search.aspx?keyword=Heat Shrink Insulated Waterproof Solder Butt Connectors&sitesearch=true

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Maybe new to Parts Express but definitely not a new product.  They've been around a while.

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It's nice to have waterproof connections in a non waterproof amplifier.

JJK

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Ditto the comment from cecaa850. Been around a long while. Used them back in the early 80s at Hughes Aircraft on Radar test equipment. Personally only have needed a water proof connection when i hacked through a direct burial sprinkler valve control wire. That's when i found out they make water proof wire nuts also.

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We call them environmental splices

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So let me get this right in my head. The two wires slide into the ends and butt up against that evidently low temperature solder in the center. Then you heat the solder and the heat shrink with the heat gun?  Seams to me like the resulting solder joint isn't going to be super reliable. 

 

    I guess I'm old school and would rather have a mechanical connection and then high temp solder... 

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19 minutes ago, NOSValves said:

I guess I'm old school and would rather have a mechanical connection and then high temp solder... 

Old school is the best school....

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I used those for sprinkler control wire splices.  Still good after being buried for 20 years.

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46 minutes ago, NOSValves said:

So let me get this right in my head. The two wires slide into the ends and butt up against that evidently low temperature solder in the center. Then you heat the solder and the heat shrink with the heat gun?  Seams to me like the resulting solder joint isn't going to be super reliable. 

 

    I guess I'm old school and would rather have a mechanical connection and then high temp solder... 

 

These look useful for outdoor wiring. 

 

Coincidentally, I am going through my house and removing all of the light switches and outlets, replacing the outlets with commercial grade, and rewiring all using the screws instead of the push terminals.  

 

The push terminals never last the test of time.  I am also putting in new light fixtures and wouldn't you know it, they have push terminals on the pigtails.  Nothing a pair of snipers, wire strippers and sum good wire nuts can't fix. 

 

 

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7 minutes ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

The push terminals never last the test of time.

Over the years I've done a bunch of wiring/re-wiring in my house that was built in '75.  There were a lot of sockets installed when the house was new using the push type connections and not a one of them has ever failed.

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18 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

Over the years I've done a bunch of wiring/re-wiring in my house that was built in '75.  There were a lot of sockets installed when the house was new using the push type connections and not a one of them has ever failed.

Yep, the tines in the socket spread and fail before the push in wire terminations in the back.

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19 hours ago, Seadog said:

I used those for sprinkler control wire splices.  Still good after being buried for 20 years.

Yea but were they High Fidelity sprinkler control wires?:)

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34 minutes ago, babadono said:

Yea but were they High Fidelity sprinkler control wires?:)

Not sure about that, but the 24VAC in those wires can deliver an unpleasant shock. Don't ask me how I know that. 😬

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3 minutes ago, Seadog said:

Not sure about that, but the 24VAC in those wires can deliver an unpleasant shock. Don't ask me how I know that. 😬

 

Old school phone lines can get you as well.

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On 2/7/2019 at 2:26 PM, CECAA850 said:

Over the years I've done a bunch of wiring/re-wiring in my house that was built in '75.  There were a lot of sockets installed when the house was new using the push type connections and not a one of them has ever failed.

 

Not a complete failure, but light switches start working intermittently or not at all because the tension in the terminal loosens up.  The side screws always work well, just need to tighten them down really well.  

 

I live in an area where every home that I have owed was built in the 1990s so maybe they are getting worse compared to your 1970's switches.  Power outlets also get loose where the plug goes in.  I replace these with the medium / commercial grade plugs and they work well. 

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1 hour ago, tigerwoodKhorns said:

 

Not a complete failure, but light switches start working intermittently or not at all because the tension in the terminal loosens up.  The side screws always work well, just need to tighten them down really well.  

 

I live in an area where every home that I have owed was built in the 1990s so maybe they are getting worse compared to your 1970's switches.  Power outlets also get loose where the plug goes in.  I replace these with the medium / commercial grade plugs and they work well. 

I've never seen light switches with push terminals.  The only ones I've used or seen have the side screws for wire connection. 

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7 hours ago, jason str said:

 

Old school phone lines can get you as well.

 

The ringer voltage is about 90 volts...

 

Working on 66 Blocks can bite you if a call comes in while you are checking things.

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1 hour ago, CECAA850 said:

I've never seen light switches with push terminals.  The only ones I've used or seen have the side screws for wire connection. 

 

Ya stone age guy!

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