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K-402 Test Drive


Dave A

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So today I decided I could not wait any more to hear these 402's you all brag about. Put some 1132 drivers on there and put them on top of the MWM bins and used the existing mid output on the MCM crossover. The difference was NOT subtle and I am in awe of the increased definition these have. I can only imagine what it will all sound like once the SMWM is complete and all the components are dialed in right. These 402's kind of overwhelm the MWM's in this configuration which surprised me.

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17 minutes ago, Dave A said:

So today I decided I could not wait any more to hear these 402's you all brag about. Put some 1132 drivers on there and put them on top of the MWM bins and used the existing mid output on the MCM crossover. The difference was NOT subtle and I am in awe of the increased definition these have. I can only imagine what it will all sound like once the SMWM is complete and all the components are dialed in right. These 402's kind of overwhelm the MWM's in this configuration which surprised me.

See, aren't you glad you listened to me more than once!! LOL. Time to finally make some sawdust, buddy!!!

 

 

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29 minutes ago, dtel said:

They're OK :lol:

 

Is the 1132 ok for that ?

 

Just wait, it gets better than that when setup with a crossover just for those two together.

 

One step at a time. We don't want to throw him into the deep end of the pool, but gently wade in and realize, slowly but surely, that the "Big Horns" water is fine indeed.

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OK OK at least I listen and I am trainable😊  That 1132 is just fine for this and the current production version of the 942 uses this driver. I can see the potential here and have a Xilica xp3060 and two Crown xli800's ready to go.

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8 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

One step at a time. We don't want to throw him into the deep end of the pool, but gently wade in and realize, slowly but surely, that the "Big Horns" water is fine indeed.

Well y 'all through me in, and thank you for that, it's been about a month short of 10 years and I still look forward to turning it on every day.

10 minutes ago, Dave A said:

I can see the potential here and have a Xilica xp3060 and two Crown xli800's ready to go.

Well, your 99% of the way there.

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3 minutes ago, dtel said:

Well y 'all through me in, and thank you for that, it's been about a month short of 10 years and I still look forward to turning it on every day.

Well, your 99% of the way there.

I'm thinking after you hear the S MWM's you might have to wade in a bit deeper. The pool does get deeper you know.

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2 hours ago, Dave A said:

So today I decided I could not wait any more to hear these 402's you all brag about. Put some 1132 drivers on there and put them on top of the MWM bins and used the existing mid output on the MCM crossover. The difference was NOT subtle and I am in awe of the increased definition these have. I can only imagine what it will all sound like once the SMWM is complete and all the components are dialed in right. These 402's kind of overwhelm the MWM's in this configuration which surprised me.

Let's see you make one of those out of walnut.  LOL!!!!

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Just now, CECAA850 said:

Let's see you make one of those out of walnut.  LOL!!!!

When you are overcome with S MWM lust remember you can veneer them. I am thinking of using a medium brown tinted Duratex on these. Did a set of KG4's some time ago and they looked good. I figure it will do just as well on the big boys and hide the dust accumulating on them in my shop. I am going with 1inch baltic for the top and bottom and that size seems like twice the weight of the 3/4 inch.

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1 hour ago, CECAA850 said:

Let's see you make one of those out of walnut.  LOL!!!!

Easy, just get Walnut hardwood plywood, I used Red Oak. There is a place in New Orleans that sells many different flavors and they have good prices. http://www.riversidelumber.com/frameset.htm

Plywood

Stock plywoods from 1/8" to 1" include:

American Birch
Ash
Baltic Birch
Cedar
Cherry
Cypress
Fir
Mahogany
Maple
Marine
Meranti
Red Oak
White Oak
Teak 
Teak & Holly
Walnut


Other species and special sizes available upon request.

 

1 hour ago, Dave A said:

I'm thinking after you hear the S MWM's you might have to wade in a bit deeper. The pool does get deeper you know.

Does the S mean single bin ? I use 2 singles on each side now, if the deeper end is the midbass speaker I don't want to do that, thought about it once but decided not to. Tired of messing with it, happy with the way it is.

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4 minutes ago, dtel said:

Easy, just get Walnut hardwood plywood, I used Red Oak. There is a place in New Orleans that sells many different flavors and they have good prices. http://www.riversidelumber.com/frameset.htm

Plywood

Stock plywoods from 1/8" to 1" include:

American Birch
Ash
Baltic Birch
Cedar
Cherry
Cypress
Fir
Mahogany
Maple
Marine
Meranti
Red Oak
White Oak
Teak 
Teak & Holly
Walnut


Other species and special sizes available upon request.

 

Does the S mean single bin ? I use 2 singles on each side now, if the deeper end is the midbass speaker I don't want to do that, thought about it once but decided not to. Tired of messing with it, happy with the way it is.

Ah, no it means Super MWM as in down to probably 27hz. You will see a set in Hope this year. Do you have your veneer source lined up?

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41 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

I was referring to the 402.

Oh OK, that would be a trick.

 

41 minutes ago, Dave A said:

Ah, no it means Super MWM as in down to probably 27hz. You will see a set in Hope this year. Do you have your veneer source lined up?

I had a feeling that's what you were talking about.

As much as I like building things I have no reason to change, the sub goes into the upper teens and easily has enough output to keep up with MWM's, I have to keep the gain dialed back. 

 

The only thing is there all big which is fine with us,  they fit with about 3' between each side of MWM's and the sub, good thing the room is 24' wide. You can see it takes up almost the whole wall

But we love the way they sound and look. 

image.jpeg

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14 hours ago, Dave A said:

When you are overcome with S MWM lust remember you can veneer them. I am thinking of using a medium brown tinted Duratex on these. Did a set of KG4's some time ago and they looked good. I figure it will do just as well on the big boys and hide the dust accumulating on them in my shop. I am going with 1inch baltic for the top and bottom and that size seems like twice the weight of the 3/4 inch.

Noticed that this was supposed to be directed at Dtel not you CECAA850

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3 hours ago, Dave A said:

I figure it will do just as well on the big boys and hide the dust accumulating on them in my shop.

 Shop, I have that problem inside.

 

No one wants to touch the stereo stuff so it's left up to me, I do it when it starts to aggravate me, I don't aggravate easily= dusty.

 

 

3 hours ago, Dave A said:

. I am going with 1inch baltic for the top and bottom and that size seems like twice the weight of the 3/4 inch.

 1" will add considerable weight but also strength, why not the sides also and 3/4" for the rest, that would give it a different look. Kind of like the Lascala compared to the LaScala ll, much better looking to me. It's not that much more wood for the sides the top and bottom is the biggest part.

 

Are you going to add handles? I didn't and they're not the easiest things to move, so I don't. 

 

I never used the Duratex stuff but like the way it looks, I didn't know you could color it.

 

I wanted wood after looking at an old picture someone posted here, it was the first ones I had seen in wood. I don't know who had them but I liked it, this was the pic.   

 

mwm'. (2).jpg

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11 hours ago, dtel said:

 Shop, I have that problem inside.

 

No one wants to touch the stereo stuff so it's left up to me, I do it when it starts to aggravate me, I don't aggravate easily= dusty.

 

 

 1" will add considerable weight but also strength, why not the sides also and 3/4" for the rest, that would give it a different look. Kind of like the Lascala compared to the LaScala ll, much better looking to me. It's not that much more wood for the sides the top and bottom is the biggest part.

 

Are you going to add handles? I didn't and they're not the easiest things to move, so I don't. 

 

I never used the Duratex stuff but like the way it looks, I didn't know you could color it.

 

I wanted wood after looking at an old picture someone posted here, it was the first ones I had seen in wood. I don't know who had them but I liked it, this was the pic.   

 

mwm'. (2).jpg

++ on the don't aggravate easily. It is impossible to keep this place 859892427_ScreenHunter_395Feb_0923_30.jpg.26882a502e74fffaa4a7a311f105e246.jpg

all the time.

Duratex has a neutral white tintable base and you can buy it from the makers in Fl who reportedly will tint it according to tint numbers from other paint makers for you or you can find a local paint store to do it.

 Thought about doing the sides in 1" too and have enough to do so. 18mm is 64 lbs per sheet and 25mm is 88lbs per sheet. This single bin would be crowding the weight of the traditional double MWM bin if I do that. There would be no resonance for sure if I do go that way. I am also going to make carts for these to sit on so I can roll them around. Who knows maybe if there is a void below the cabinet too it just might help lower the bass since it is in essence next to another wall where ever it goes.

 

  Looks like raw birch topcoated with polyurethane. I happen to really like the way Baltic looks when so treated. In the shop though when we get into summer heat and humidity and things can get moldy and always dusty I want Duratex. Duratex will cover screw heads for me too since I intend to screw this all together and not use an air nailer.

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24 minutes ago, Dave A said:

Looks like raw birch topcoated with polyurethane.

You might be right, we used red oak with the same stain and oil on top of that for the MWMs. The sub was raw birch and I tried to get it close to the red oak which was not easy (for me) and it ended up like in the picture, it was as close as I could get. Oh well :huh: 

Red oak stain was really red on the birch so I mixed stains to get as close as I could, no matter what you do it's 2 different kinds of wood so it looks different even if the color would have turned out right. If the wood would have not been in such good shape it would have been black, it was a prototype but in great shape. Either way, it was staying :emotion-21:

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