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Need help on IDing some cornwalls


DahaiTX

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Hello everyone,

 

Could anyone confirm this is a true pair of Cornwalls? The guy wants a grand for these two and he claims these are:

 

"These are the original Cornwalls, and they were “Decorator Models,” which were sold unfinished and without grill covers."

01010_1KMEQXlE87g_1200x900.thumb.jpg.a9bbcafcf31bb4df2a3a23c5b67494bd.jpg00A0A_8974oYIk0ZO_1200x900.thumb.jpg.21678670d60bb41693e35799b560d472.jpg00000_jnCfPipiKZ1_1200x900.thumb.jpg.c147c0ce53404c5ab26f779082ac1219.jpg00T0T_71VWa7afouv_1200x900.thumb.jpg.a043585ee3aa1ef4d287571619d41f7e.jpg

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The one sure looked like one.  Can't read the label.  The serial numbers should be stamped on the back edges and should have a low letter in them.  Ought to talk him down 3 to 3 hundred.  They are not rare. 

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1 hour ago, JohnA said:

The one sure looked like one.  Can't read the label.  The serial numbers should be stamped on the back edges and should have a low letter in them.  Ought to talk him down 3 to 3 hundred.  They are not rare. 

You mean a fair price would be at around 7 to 800 for these?

 

Thanks,

 

Jimmy

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So I picked them up for $750, the serial numbers are 6N398 and 6N399. Something interesting I found out after pulling off the grill on the 6N399, it seemed to have a different version of the woofer, so I opened it up (thank god for the back panel access.) and here is what I found out:

 

6N398:

K-33-P

K-55-V

K-77

 

6N399:

K-33-E

K-55-V

K-77

IMG_8467.jpg

IMG_8468.jpg

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continuing from the last post

 

Looking at the drivers, I found the k-77s and the k-33s are different versions from each other.

 

Would this matter?

 

Also, the dust cap on k-33E is falling off..should i even bother to fix it or should i go ahead and start looking for a matching k-33p which is what the other speaker has?

IMG_8464.jpg

IMG_8463.jpg

Edited by DahaiTX
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You have two different versions of the K77 tweeter, one has the earlier Alnico magnet (round), whereas the square-magnet  tweeter (K77M) has the ferrite mud slurry magnet (square). This is probably because a replacement K77M was put into the speaker at one time or another.  Klipsch changed over to the K77M tweeter a few years after your speakers were made. As for the VOICE COIL dust cover on that woofer having come loose, there are two options, either buy a new (or used in good condition) replacement K33, or send the one you have off for a rebuild.  The reason is that once dust has gotten inside of that VOICE COIL dust cover (which is highly likely depending upon how long that cover has been loose), then it is only a matter of time before the voice coil starts rubbing, it  has not already begun rubbing.  At high volumes that voice-coil rubbing will really become audibly noticeable and it generates HEAT...from that friction...possibly enough heat to actually cause the woofer cone to catch fire, which is the last thing you want to happen.  You will HEAR the voice coil rubbing WAY BEFORE it gets to the point of any kind of fire happening...because it sounds like a "scratching" noise coming from the woofer and it will annoy your ears.  ME????  I would just get a good condition used K33 and replace that one.

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You have two different versions of the K77 tweeter, one has the earlier Alnico magnet (round), whereas the square-magnet  tweeter (K77M) has the ferrite mud slurry magnet (square). This is probably because a replacement K77M was put into the speaker at one time or another.  Klipsch changed over to the K77M tweeter a few years after your speakers were made. As for the VOICE COIL dust cover on that woofer having come loose, there are two options, either buy a new (or used in good condition) replacement K33, or send the one you have off for a rebuild.  The reason is that once dust has gotten inside of that VOICE COIL dust cover (which is highly likely depending upon how long that cover has been loose), then it is only a matter of time before the voice coil starts rubbing, it  has not already begun rubbing.  At high volumes that voice-coil rubbing will really become audibly noticeable and it generates HEAT...from that friction...possibly enough heat to actually cause the woofer cone to catch fire, which is the last thing you want to happen.  You will HEAR the voice coil rubbing WAY BEFORE it gets to the point of any kind of fire happening...because it sounds like a "scratching" noise coming from the woofer and it will annoy your ears.  ME????  I would just get a good condition used K33 and replace that one.

Thank you for the information! Where should I look to get a matching pair with the k-33-p like the pictures attached?961d7412a2cc7aec777422edfaf3267c.jpg8455088569e6f0d9ea3a63b3c25e71f8.jpg


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33 minutes ago, HDBRbuilder said:

You have two different versions of the K77 tweeter, one has the earlier Alnico magnet (round), whereas the square-magnet  tweeter (K77M) has the ferrite mud slurry magnet (square). This is probably because a replacement K77M was put into the speaker at one time or another.  Klipsch changed over to the K77M tweeter a few years after your speakers were made. As for the VOICE COIL dust cover on that woofer having come loose, there are two options, either buy a new (or used in good condition) replacement K33, or send the one you have off for a rebuild.  The reason is that once dust has gotten inside of that VOICE COIL dust cover (which is highly likely depending upon how long that cover has been loose), then it is only a matter of time before the voice coil starts rubbing, it  has not already begun rubbing.  At high volumes that voice-coil rubbing will really become audibly noticeable and it generates HEAT...from that friction...possibly enough heat to actually cause the woofer cone to catch fire, which is the last thing you want to happen.  You will HEAR the voice coil rubbing WAY BEFORE it gets to the point of any kind of fire happening...because it sounds like a "scratching" noise coming from the woofer and it will annoy your ears.  ME????  I would just get a good condition used K33 and replace that one.

In the case of the K77 tweeter, should I look for replacements just to match up the pair?

I have also been look at the replace woofers from Bob Crites and I see there are two versions. Are they good replacements?

Our CW1526C 15 inch Cast Frame Woofers.  Replacement for the Klipsch K-33E for Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch, and Cornwall.  Shipping is $27.00 by FedEx in the US. (Not for the LaScala).

Model CW1526C Pair:  $295.00.  

Our CW1526 15 inch Stamped Steel Frame Woofers.  Replacement for the Klipsch K-33E for  Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch, Cornwall and LaScala.  Shipping is $27.00 by UPS in the US.

Model CW1526 Pair:  $250.00

 

This actually excites me a bit, I am looking forward to this small project of cleaning up the woofer with the bad dust cover and reglue it back into the place for the time being.

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On 3/4/2019 at 11:25 PM, DahaiTX said:

Hello everyone,

 

Could anyone confirm this is a true pair of Cornwalls? The guy wants a grand for these two and he claims these are:

 

"These are the original Cornwalls, and they were “Decorator Models,” which were sold unfinished and without grill covers."

01010_1KMEQXlE87g_1200x900.thumb.jpg.a9bbcafcf31bb4df2a3a23c5b67494bd.jpg00A0A_8974oYIk0ZO_1200x900.thumb.jpg.21678670d60bb41693e35799b560d472.jpg00000_jnCfPipiKZ1_1200x900.thumb.jpg.c147c0ce53404c5ab26f779082ac1219.jpg00T0T_71VWa7afouv_1200x900.thumb.jpg.a043585ee3aa1ef4d287571619d41f7e.jpg

Looks like the letter N = 1974 if I'm correct

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On 3/6/2019 at 2:40 PM, DahaiTX said:

In the case of the K77 tweeter, should I look for replacements just to match up the pair?

I have also been look at the replace woofers from Bob Crites and I see there are two versions. Are they good replacements?

Our CW1526C 15 inch Cast Frame Woofers.  Replacement for the Klipsch K-33E for Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch, and Cornwall.  Shipping is $27.00 by FedEx in the US. (Not for the LaScala).

Model CW1526C Pair:  $295.00.  

Our CW1526 15 inch Stamped Steel Frame Woofers.  Replacement for the Klipsch K-33E for  Klipschorn, Belle Klipsch, Cornwall and LaScala.  Shipping is $27.00 by UPS in the US.

Model CW1526 Pair:  $250.00

 

This actually excites me a bit, I am looking forward to this small project of cleaning up the woofer with the bad dust cover and reglue it back into the place for the time being.

If the voice coil dust cover on that woofer has been off long enough the likelihood of a rubbing voice coil is very high.  I would just replace it with a good used K33.

As for the tweeters, they both function the same,  and only have different magnet units on them...so if they are working then just leave them alone.

Any "upgrades" you decide upon are totally up to you...I know Bob Crites personally and have even visited him and he sells good stuff.

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The K-33-P and K-33-E were used interchangably for several years in the mid 70's.  P for CTS Paducah, KY, and E for Eminence.  If the woofer sounds good, I'd just apply a little "Elmer's glue" and rock on.

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One of your crossovers has a pair of diodes like a Type AA called "KLiP".  I have never heard of a Cornwall with the KLiP circuit.  You should make them match.  One has modern capacitors, that's good, but I can't tell if the other one does.  Again, make them match.  Cornwalls from 1975 should have a Type B xover.

 

CornwallTypeB.jpg

 

The K-77-M was used after 1979, so it is likely a repair after delivery.  It is a better tweeter, so I'd upgrade the other one.  The date code 137 7503 on the -P means CTS, 3rd week of 1975, so it is surely the original. 

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6 hours ago, JohnA said:

One of your crossovers has a pair of diodes like a Type AA called "KLiP".  I have never heard of a Cornwall with the KLiP circuit.  You should make them match.  One has modern capacitors, that's good, but I can't tell if the other one does.  Again, make them match.  Cornwalls from 1975 should have a Type B xover.

  

CornwallTypeB.jpg

 

The K-77-M was used after 1979, so it is likely a repair after delivery.  It is a better tweeter, so I'd upgrade the other one.  The date code 137 7503 on the -P means CTS, 3rd week of 1975, so it is surely the original. 

 

Thank you for the help, unfortunately I am a noob and I have no idea about what diodes and KLiP mean..furthermore I do not know how to properly read this diagram...

I did not take the picture properly before I screwed back the back panel, I guess I will have to open it back up and take some better pictures for my future study..

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