Deang Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Do you know how to use a solder sucker and braid? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexx510 Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 17 minutes ago, Deang said: Do you know how to use a solder sucker and braid? Yes, that I do. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
geoff. Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 23 hours ago, Marvel said: It's always fun to reach in the back of an equipment rack with around a hundred cables coming in and slicing your arm on all the cut off zip ties. You know... where the contractor left about an inch on the ties sticking out. I know EXACTLY what you mean. I do not have any kind words for the tradespeople that leave barbed-wire along the route others will travel... inconsiderate and lazy are the best I can muster. There are two simple ways to prevent this: a) use a Bic lighter held closely but not on the sharp edge until it melts smooth b) using lineman's pliers, or nippers, or whatever will snug up tight to the excess, twist the leftover cable until it breaks free Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 20 minutes ago, Lexx510 said: Yes, that I do. Find an old PCB to practice on. You've waited this long, might as well go the extra mile. While I'm not entirely opposed to how Dave does it, it does make me cringe a bit. The best approach is to heat the solder on the solder pad and remove it all. Once it's been removed, you can feed the lead from the new capacitor through the hole. Removing the old parts is actually more work than adding the new ones! Dave's way is the fastest, but if you stay on the lead too long with the heat, you run the risk of compromising the solder joint on the PCB (which historically have issues to begin with, which is another reason why I prefer the method I'm suggesting). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Problem had was putting in the autoformer back into the speakers as recall. Loosening the short screws helped some but removing the 2 screws allowed me to dangle them into the hole first. Then reattach from the front... whatever works for you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Deang Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Ta da. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexx510 Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 Thank you, everyone. I did it. Tested and all drivers seem to work. First impression, not a HUGE improvement, but the low end is now tighter and less boomy. I'll give it a more detailed listen later tonight. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted November 2, 2019 Share Posted November 2, 2019 56 minutes ago, Lexx510 said: Thank you, everyone. I did it. Tested and all drivers seem to work. First impression, not a HUGE improvement, but the low end is now tighter and less boomy. I'll give it a more detailed listen later tonight. depending upon how much actual play time you give caps will vary on forming time so report back in 6 - 8 weeks and tell us what you think then. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lexx510 Posted November 4, 2019 Share Posted November 4, 2019 On 11/2/2019 at 3:03 PM, moray james said: depending upon how much actual play time you give caps will vary on forming time so report back in 6 - 8 weeks and tell us what you think then. Oh so there's a cap break in period as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted November 4, 2019 Share Posted November 4, 2019 54 minutes ago, Lexx510 said: Oh so there's a cap break in period as well? drivers and caps both take time. The louder and longer you can play them the less time you will have to wait. There are ways to mitigate the long loud play. You can place the speakers face to face cover them with shipping blankets and drive them with a stereo receiver tuned to interstation noise, wire one speaker in the opposite phase to the other turn up the level to as loud as you can stand and come back in a week or so. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glens Posted November 4, 2019 Share Posted November 4, 2019 On 11/2/2019 at 12:36 AM, Lexx510 said: Also, these caps have no polarity, right? You missed the excellent thread regarding that topic? It was within the past year, a search and several hours reading will fully enlighten you! Hahaha! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted November 6, 2019 Share Posted November 6, 2019 On 11/2/2019 at 10:11 AM, Deang said: Find an old PCB to practice on. You've waited this long, might as well go the extra mile. While I'm not entirely opposed to how Dave does it, it does make me cringe a bit. The best approach is to heat the solder on the solder pad and remove it all. Once it's been removed, you can feed the lead from the new capacitor through the hole. Removing the old parts is actually more work than adding the new ones! Dave's way is the fastest, but if you stay on the lead too long with the heat, you run the risk of compromising the solder joint on the PCB (which historically have issues to begin with, which is another reason why I prefer the method I'm suggesting). I am kind of a cringey guy. You do bring up a good point though I have had decades of watching metal flow so I have no fear of excessive heat input on what I do but I can't speak for others skill level. I am trying to remember if there was space under those boards to get the soldering iron in there as I certainly like that method to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Oakmountainman Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 I have been unable to find a schematic on the Chorus 1 (all I found were dead links) Please share yours with me if you have one. If nobody has a schematic, could you share the number of caps required including uf and voltage values for a re-capping? Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 On 11/2/2019 at 10:11 AM, Deang said: The best approach is to heat the solder on the solder pad and remove it all. Once it's been removed, you can feed the lead from the new capacitor through the hole. Removing the old parts is actually more work than adding the new ones! You'd hate the method that I've been using. I put just enough heat on the PCB to momentarily get the solder molten enough to pull the cap lead through. That leaves a small amount of solder on the board with either a tiny hole in it or sometimes no hole. I then take a drill bit the size of the new cap lead and drill it out. It takes about 2 seconds. Stick the new cap leads in and solder it up. I've never damaged a board and it's really fast. Just realized how old this thread is, LOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted September 10, 2020 Share Posted September 10, 2020 14 hours ago, Oakmountainman said: I have been unable to find a schematic on the Chorus 1 (all I found were dead links) Please share yours with me if you have one. If nobody has a schematic, could you share the number of caps required including uf and voltage values for a re-capping? Thanks! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xraygun Posted February 20, 2021 Share Posted February 20, 2021 On 4/7/2019 at 9:02 AM, Dave A said: If you are handy with soldering it is easy peasy. Cut the leads to the existing caps and tie into those. On the electrolytic you can get to the bottom side without removing anything and work it loose with your soldering iron and one side at a time it will be easily removed. I go back in with a small drill bit and drill a hole using the circuit board hole as a guide and you can stick the new leads through that and solder them in. NO I would not use anther dinky electrolytic because that big poly Audyn adds much more and wakes the bass right up. I did this to the last two I had and regret not doing this from day one on all the Vintage crossovers I have rebuilt. NO it is not a problem to fit in that hole because of the big 68uf cap. The problem is the underside of the circuit board the solder joints catch on the wood and it means you might have to work at it to get them out and in. On that big poly I have velcro attached to the board and cap so that wire on the top will not abrade through the side and also have a strip of the hook side of velcro betweet the side of the cap and that ferrite core on the top board so the coil can't abrade or press through and damage the cap. Do not snug that cable tie down as tight as you can but just enough to keep it from wobbling around. The velcro does the rest. I like the Chorus I better than the rest of the vintage speakers for the sound you get and with front ports you can play them anywhere. Last set I got was pretty lifeless until recapped and what a difference. Cheapest thing to do for noticeable improvement and Sonicaps and that Audyn have worked fine for me and are available in the exact values you need. Dave, where did these caps come from? Thanks! Ray Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 On 11/3/2019 at 10:32 PM, Lexx510 said: Oh so there's a cap break in period as well? On 11/3/2019 at 11:30 PM, moray james said: drivers and caps both take time. The louder and longer you can play them the less time you will have to wait. There are ways to mitigate the long loud play. You can place the speakers face to face cover them with shipping blankets and drive them with a stereo receiver tuned to interstation noise, wire one speaker in the opposite phase to the other turn up the level to as loud as you can stand and come back in a week or so. just now seeing this thread but heres what bob has to say about capacitor break in. personally i notice no difference on my recaps from the first 5 minutes to an hour to a month or longer... Q: Do components have a break-in time? A: Some do and some don't. Capacitors would be a definite NO. Let's look at this one a bit. You have new good quality capacitors installed in your crossovers. Capacitors have exactly two qualities that effect the sound of your music that goes through them. Those are capacitance (what we use them for) and ESR. ESR is the sum of all other qualities of a capacitor other than capacitance expressed as an Equivalent Series Resistance. ESR is a bad thing. Good caps have ESR so low it is barely measurable, on the order of a couple of hundredths of an ohm. ESR is made up of stuff like the resistance of the leads and their connections to the foil inside the capacitor or stray inductance or dielectric absorption. So, we put our new caps in the crossovers. These new caps are right on the capacitance value the design calls for and the ESR is almost unmeasurably low. What exactly of these two qualities do you expect to change with break-in? And if either of them changed, why would you expect the sound to get better since the only way they could change is to go away from the "perfect" values they had to start with? I hope any caps you use in your crossovers are good enough that they do not change at all for many years of use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 2 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said: personally i notice no difference on my recaps from the first 5 minutes to an hour to a month or longer... well we are going to have to disagree on this one and I don't just base my findings on my own experience. I also find there can be a wide range of difference with brands and types of caps. I disagreed with Bob also regarding this, rest his soul. Lots of folks don't hear or notice lots of things, happens all the time. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
001 Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 3 hours ago, moray james said: well we are going to have to disagree on this one and I don't just base my findings on my own experience. I also find there can be a wide range of difference with brands and types of caps. I disagreed with Bob also regarding this, rest his soul. Lots of folks don't hear or notice lots of things, happens all the time. you're entitled to your opinion. i agree different types & brands of caps sound different, thats not at question here, i was just posting what bob says regarding the subject of capacitor break in. anyone can disagree with anyone but he knew what he was talking about & many other credible people agree... but then again some dont. personally i dont know which is correct, but i know i didnt all of a sudden one day say to myself, "hey my caps are broken in now!" i've done quite a few recaps, nowhere near what you or others on here have done or at the same level, but for the most part they sound the same after the first day as they do a week or 6 months later... nothing physical changes in a standard polypropylene cap like a woofer surround that does need some break in time. but im no electrician so i will leave that to others to debate. i also agree lots of folks dont hear or notice lots of things, but on the flip side im also well aware lots of folks "think" they hear or notice something but when put to a real blind A/B test they cant reliably pick between the average capacitor, speaker wire or RCA cable... placebo effect is real. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted February 22, 2021 Share Posted February 22, 2021 Do not look for any burn in cap conversions here as personal experience have well, burnt in. Midnight converts are typically few and far between. Makes a nice conversation piece though. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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