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I have a pair of Epics I am selling and would like to be able to let potential buyers demo them. What wires would you recommend? I just have a very basic compact stereo system and am not looking to spend a lot since they are for demo use only. Pardon my inexperience, these belonged to my father and I inherited them. Thanks in advance for any and all help!

 

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Copper covered in insulation.

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I'm sorry to hear about your father.  My condolences.

+++

 

I suggest you not spend any more money than you have to if selling.  When you know a potential buyer is coming have him bring his own source material and speaker wire.  You can provide a small amp to test if tweeters/woofers are working.

 

May I ask which Epics you are selling?  They are typically referred to by their model number, CF-4, CF-3, etc.  It would also help to know which year or version, 1994, 95, 96, referred to as v1, v2, v3.

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Thank you for the help! The speakers are CF3 vs 2, I think you helped me with some questions about them previously.

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As for speaker wires, yes! Good quality braided copper I'd say 14ga or larger to avoid power losses. And GOOD connections! Connections are often the bottleneck of higher resistance for high power connections, like speakers.

John Kuthe...

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So where are you located? List them here too!

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6 hours ago, JohnKuthe said:

As for speaker wires, yes! Good quality braided copper I'd say 14ga or larger to avoid power losses. And GOOD connections! Connections are often the bottleneck of higher resistance for high power connections, like speakers.

John Kuthe...

Do you mean braided?  Or stranded?

 

Braided-Copper-Wire.jpg

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5 hours ago, Archguy said:

Do you mean braided?  Or stranded?

 

Braided-Copper-Wire.jpg

Well, ONE thing!

I mean INSULATED! :-) I run 12awg INSULATED speaker wires to my La Scalas and 14awg INSULATED speaker wires to my Heresys! The 12awg stranded wires many times will be too large for many terminal connections, obviating using a heavier gage wire in the first place! Again the point of most resistance is often at the terminals!

John  Kuthe...

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Had to go through the power distribution yard on a regular basis with a thermal imaging camera checking connection points for excessive heat.  Very common to need a break/clean/remake.

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14 hours ago, JohnKuthe said:

As for speaker wires, yes! Good quality braided copper I'd say 14ga or larger to avoid power losses. And GOOD connections! Connections are often the bottleneck of higher resistance for high power connections, like speakers.  -John Kuthe...

 

John, did you read post #1?  He is selling some CF-3's and simply wants some cheap speaker wire so a Buyer can test them. 

 

This would be a good application for some cheap lamp cord.  B)

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13 hours ago, avguytx said:

So where are you located? List them here too!

 I’m located in St Louis, MO. They are currently listed here. 

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1 hour ago, wvu80 said:

 

John, did you read post #1?  He is selling some CF-3's and simply wants some cheap speaker wire so a Buyer can test them. 

 

This would be a good application for some cheap lamp cord.  B)

Yep! The cheapest heaviest gage lamp cord you can buy!

Better than what you have, which is NO lamp cord! Leading to that fatal electrical error known as the NOT PLUGGED IN ERROR!

John Kuthe...

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2 minutes ago, JohnKuthe said:

Better than what you have, which is NO lamp cord! Leading to that fatal electrical error known as the NOT PLUGGED IN ERROR!  -John Kuthe...

 

Um, I've done that.  :rolleyes:

 

Still wasn't as bad as the time I took my Honda 100 motor apart thinking it had holed a piston. 

 

Interestingly enough, it turns out that running out of gas has the same symptoms.  Go figure. 

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1 hour ago, wvu80 said:

 

Um, I've done that.  :rolleyes:

 

Still wasn't as bad as the time I took my Honda 100 motor apart thinking it had holed a piston. 

 

Interestingly enough, it turns out that running out of gas has the same symptoms.  Go figure. 

ROFL!!!!

My Ex Wife had a nice painted 1966 VW Beetle that would idle all day, but when only drive a little ways once engaged to drive!!

Turned out to be a blocked steel fuel line in the VW floorpan so I ran a secondary flel line up out of the engine compartment, over the rain sill over the driver's door which worked wonderfully! But would NEVER pass safety inspection!

Rube Goldberg as one can get! Function over form, safety, etc! 😉

John  Kuthe...

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Go to the nearest Home Depot or Lowes, then to the wire cutting area, and ask a guy to cut two pieces of 14 or 16 gauge speaker wire of the desired length, from the big spool. 

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49 minutes ago, Shiva said:

 

Go to the nearest Home Depot or Lowes, then to the wire cutting area, and ask a guy to cut two pieces of 14 or 16 gauge speaker wire of the desired length, from the big spool. 

 

Completely agree. Spending more cash than you have to just to demo a pair of speakers you are selling is foolish. Skip the banana plugs and just carefully strip wire ends and twist and connect, making sure you have no loose or shorting strands at the receiver terminals. This worked fine for 50 years, before audiophiles felt the need to spend $500 plus on a single pair of "vastly better" pre-assembled cables/terminal ends.

 

$1450 for a pair of McIntosh 10' speaker cables

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I agree with polizzio, but I would tin (solder) the leads to avoid loose strands of wire.

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Thank you so much for your help everyone! The Epics have now found a home! 

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4 hours ago, polizzio said:

before audiophiles felt the need to spend $500 plus on a single pair of "vastly better" pre-assembled cables/terminal ends.

Polizzio, you're behind the times - how about $42,000? On the plus side, it is a whole 15 feet.

 

https://www.needledoctor.com/Kimber-Kable-Select-KS-6068-Speaker-Cables?custcol115=24&custcol120=49&_vsrefdom=adwords&gclid=CjwKCAjwk7rmBRAaEiwAhDGhxFRiD6xNWiAx-e60aATGsMJQ9zYuoR5gIbLNOw_cetbZOXiSxAuL2xoCs4QQAvD_BwE

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