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Check out this bad boy.


polizzio

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10 minutes ago, polizzio said:

 

Anybody who builds a sub uses a high pass filter, that's so basic its stupid. Who attempts to run a sub driver full range?

 

Oh your an expert......I forgot.

 

 

 

 

You are probably thinking about a low pass filter.

 

This will need both a high pass and low pass filter.

 

With that attitude good luck getting help here, sounds like you really need it too.

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2 minutes ago, jason str said:

 

 

 

You are probably thinking about a low pass filter.

 

This will need both a high pass and low pass filter.

 

With that attitude good luck getting help here, sounds like you really need it too.

 

Believe me, I'll pass on your help, TY. 

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15 minutes ago, polizzio said:

 

Anybody who builds a sub uses a high pass filter, that's so basic its stupid. Who attempts to run a sub driver full range?

 

Oh your an expert......I forgot.

 

 

 

No.....they use a LOW pass filter most every time; not a HIGH pass filter.  Using a high pass filter limits the low frequency is allowed to a driver whereas using a low pass filter limits the amount of highs a driver sees.

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8 minutes ago, avguytx said:

 

 

No.....they use a LOW pass filter most every time; not a HIGH pass filter.  Using a high pass filter limits the low frequency is allowed to a driver whereas using a low pass filter limits the amount of highs a driver sees.

 

Yes you are correct, I had corrected my post if you look back. Actually some subs do employ both an adjustable high pass and low pass filter like Rythmik subs.  Subsonic filter = high pass

 

Brian Ding is the originator of Rythmik, an electrical engineer. He designs his own plate amps. Rythmiks are noted for his feedback servo technology.

They are based out of Austin TX.

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1 hour ago, polizzio said:

Oh please enlighten me.

Many times the manufacturer will post a frequency response of the raw driver and you can see how it performs.  TS parameters (which they DID supply) shuld be all you need however when you design your box.  Winisd will quickly tell you what you've got.

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16 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

I'm not quite sure what I or anyone else has done to deserve attitude.  I'll apologize and bow out of this conversation.  Good luck with your build and post pictures for others to enjoy.

 

My apology to you and Jason, I was sort of being an arrogant di**head for sure. When I went back and later re-read this thread, it was apparent to me.

 

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4 minutes ago, polizzio said:

 

My apology to you and Jason, I was sort of being an arrogant di**head for sure. When I went back and later re-read this thread, it was apparent to me.

 

Thank you, I appreciate it.  Please post pictures of your build.  Those of us that currently don't have projects going will build vicariously through your photos.

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On 5/14/2019 at 11:23 AM, jason str said:

This will need both a high pass and low pass filter.

 

Absolutely!

 

Hey, he bought that 18" for $60 in 2019, and I paid $84 for a JBL 15" D130 in 1958. 

 

"Every note a perfect quote!"

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6 hours ago, jokerz4u said:

So, what happened with the sub build? How did it work out for you? Curious.

 

The sub cab flat pack arrived Tuesday afternoon. 36 hours later its all together (Tightbond 3 wood glue and a youtube assembly video). The double front face (1.5") was the last component attached hence the marble slab weight in the pic. The 18" transducer flat pack sealed cab from DIY Sound Group is awesome! CNC precision cut MDF and the lowest price I could find on line. Now debating about ext finish....paint it flat black, or veneer cabinet, or something else. I have a couple very small cracks in the front 1.5" face mating surface I have to caulk or seal. Did some light sanding/finishing last evening.

 

The second hand Crown amp XLS 1002 arrived a week ago, works great, pushing my old speakers to test it. Has a plethora of DSP options. Impressed for the price. So I have all the components to finish except for the cabinet feet and the exterior finish. I just knew my local Home Depot or walmart would have something I could use (screw on rubber feet) , but not the case.

IMG_20190522_085608754.jpg

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This thing will compete with my SVS-SB3000 sub (13" driver/800 rms watts, 2000 peak). This all started out me purchasing the 18" transducer for $59 delivered for shitz and giggles. For the price I wanted to hold that driver in my hands, maybe sit it out as a conversation piece. But then I started investigating building a cabinet for it, put together a budget sub. The 18" transducer has  double the cone surface area of the 13", and is more efficient (102db @ 1 watt). But the SVS sub has massive power handling, control, and low distortion. 

 

Its just a lil fun project, I like working with my hands. I have < $500 tied up in the 18" sub including the Crown amp. A decent high power sub plate amp sells for $450 new.

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Here is a much better photo. After a single coat of Rustoleum flat black enamel paint applied with a 7" foam roller, and attaching feet I already had . Also installed terminals on back, internal wiring, and transducer. Fashioned a nice seal for the transducer from 3/8" wide felt weatherstripping I had in the garage too. Had the #10 sheet metal screws on the shelf.

 

Going do some light sanding and apply a second coat of paint. The finish sheen is irregular, flat on the MDF but shiny where excess glue residue was @ seams and I had sanded. Now is the time to make it somewhat right as it now weighs roughly 75 lbs, and before I carry it into the house.  Need a freakin hand truck!

 

IMG_20190523_165038998_HDR.jpg

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Just made the move into the LR. Little brother SVS  SB-3000 in the background. Was just watching the "Wind River" dvd again, really good movie with some serious low frequency effects in certain scenes. The Cornwalls operated full range and the SB-3000 are a really powerful team in a digital 4.1 format, in my room.

 

We shall see what a big ole $59 Chinese transducer and a sealed DIY cab does......

 

IMG-20190524-112554931.jpg

 

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