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Capacitors for LaScala AA Networks


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13 minutes ago, Jvitti1970 said:

In looking at the original schematics for the AA networks the 3 caps are rated two at 2uF and one at 13uF.

Do the new caps need to exactly match these ratings?

No, but they should be as close as possible.  There are some manufacturers that do not produce those exact numbers.

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25 minutes ago, Jvitti1970 said:

In looking at the original schematics for the AA networks the 3 caps are rated two at 2uF and one at 13uF.

Do the new caps need to exactly match these ratings?

the voltage rating can be lower, as low as 100 volts but the capacitance values should be as close as possible if you wish not to change the crossover points. There are many threads in the archives on both modifications and upgrades of the crossovers for your loudspeakers. You might find some of interest.

Klipsch AA crossover schematic.jpg

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5 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

What about the other #s on the caps? Like wvdc or volts?

not sure if you are directing your question to me, wvdc stands for working volts DC. Most PIO (paper in oil) along with motor run caps which tend to be polypropylene in oil are often higher voltage rating you will see rating 240V up to over 400V typically they do go higher depending upon the application. In a loudspeaker you are not nearly so concerned with the voltage. Remember that caps like these are in fact capable of handling voltages of at least double their specified rating. For practicality sake if you  us a rating of 100V you will have far more voltage rating than you will need with any audio amplifier. Hope this helps.

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Why not contact Bob Crites and have a chat with him about your options? Bob can explain to you what upgrades there are and hew has excellent parts at fair prices. You might also discuss tweeter upgrades with Bob, he can also help you with new tweeters and mids at a range of price points. Bob is your go to Klipsch parts supplier and a wonderful person to deal with.

 

https://critesspeakers.com/

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4 minutes ago, Jvitti1970 said:

@jimjimbo  seems like the 2's are easier to find than the 13....brands should all be the same?

They don't all have to be the same brand, but for low to modest cost builds it probably makes sense.  However, your 13 (approx) could be a bit higher end and not the same brand.

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7 minutes ago, jimjimbo said:

They don't all have to be the same brand, but for low to modest cost builds it probably makes sense.  However, your 13 (approx) could be a bit higher end and not the same brand.

If I were to be purchasing new caps for my crossover I would spend any extra funds on the caps for the mid and hi section rather than on the woofer roll off. Nicer parts are usually worth it but you might want to place them where your hearing is most sensitive and where room acoustics will have the least impact and that will always be on the mid and hi horns. Given the small number of caps in a project like this I would purchase an equally good cap for the bass section of the network but that's just me. YMMV as the say.

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15 minutes ago, moray james said:

not sure if you are directing your question to me, wvdc stands for working volts DC. Most PIO (paper in oil) along with motor run caps which tend to be polypropylene in oil are often higher voltage rating you will see rating 240V up to over 400V typically they do go higher depending upon the application. In a loudspeaker you are not nearly so concerned with the voltage. Remember that caps like these are in fact capable of handling voltages of at least double their specified rating. For practicality sake if you  us a rating of 100V you will have far more voltage rating than you will need with any audio amplifier. Hope this helps.

Dude thanks!

 

Thats really helpful indeed. It answered my question and also explained a few things I didn't know I didn't know. 👍

 

So to ask one more question on this topic. Other than the uf rating being as close as possible. Is there any other stat/s on a cap (regardless of type). That ever really matters. From a compatibility stand point?

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Jvitti, Yes, the 13 uF can be hard to find. However, a 6 and a 7 (wired in parallel) will be equivalent to a 13.

 

Sometimes folks will parallel a smaller cap with the 2uF caps (called bypassing) that is typically anywhere from 1% -5% the value of the main cap and using a type that is either  film or foil. This is an affordable alternative to buying expensive caps. For instance, I have used Solen caps (polyprop) and bypassed with Dayton (foil/film). The additional cost of the Daytons was only a few dollars. 

 

Please remember that what I suggested (either for creating a "larger value" and for bypassing) is for the caps wired in PARALLEL and not in SERIES. 

 

Good Luck,

-Tom

 

I should mention that the caps I used as an example are quite affordable and easily obtained from Parts Express. They are not meant to be the last word in quality. However, if your crossover is 20 years old, you will notice an improvement. 

 

 

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1 minute ago, jimjimbo said:

They don't all have to be the same brand, but for low to modest cost builds it probably makes sense.  However, your 13 (approx) could be a bit higher end and not the same brand.

better to go a little over the rating or under

 

20 minutes ago, moray james said:

Why not contact Bob Crites and have a chat with him about your options? Bob can explain to you what upgrades there are and hew has excellent parts at fair prices. You might also discuss tweeter upgrades with Bob, he can also help you with new tweeters and mids at a range of price points. Bob is your go to Klipsch parts supplier and a wonderful person to deal with.

 

https://critesspeakers.com/

I have spoken to him about the tweets and mids upgrades.has me excited! I know he uses sonicaps though for his networks and thought they were entry level caps

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15 minutes ago, Heritage_Head said:

Dude thanks!

 

Thats really helpful indeed. It answered my question and also explained a few things I didn't know I didn't know. 👍

 

So to ask one more question on this topic. Other than the uf rating being as close as possible. Is there any other stat/s on a cap (regardless of type). That ever really matters. From a compatibility stand point?

that's about all you really need. That said these networks were designed around pio caps and they impact the sonic character. If you wanto keep the exact flavor of the sound stick with pio caps but get good ones, lately there has been much discussion on the less than stellar quality of many readily available pio caps so check with the crossover gurus on the form for recommendations.

For building composite caps say you need a 13 uf cap but cannot source one but you can source 2x5uf and 1x3uf caps I would make sure to use the exact same type cap to build your parallel composite cap.

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3 minutes ago, Jvitti1970 said:

 I know he uses sonicaps though for his networks and thought they were entry level caps 

You can spend much more on boutique caps if you want but the Sonicaps are good modern quality and sound. Since you have so few caps to buy you could start with the sonicaps and after 4 months time try something more exotic if you like. Lots of members here who have experience in Heritage with both plastic caps ans well as oil filled caps. Why not ask for some opinions and see what happens. Note there are also a number of oil/plastic caps available today which incorporate the sonic virtues of each type but most of those are not inexpensive. Perhaps see if there are members in range of you with caps you might be interested in and go listen. You will learn a lot and make new friends at the same time. The thing that matters most is you achieving the sound that you like.

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4 minutes ago, moray james said:

that's about all you really need. That said these networks were designed around pio caps and they impact the sonic character. If you wanto keep the exact flavor of the sound stick with pio caps but get good ones, lately there has been much discussion on the less than stellar quality of many readily available pio caps so check with the crossover gurus on the form for recommendations.

I have thanks.👍

Have gotten some great advise on this area. Looking at some of the caps recommend  I was confused with the different ratings and if they mattered. 

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Ok, this timely post has turned up some heavy hitters! 

 

Being “north of the border” our purchasing power is severely crimped by the exchange rate, but Solen ships domestic.

 

What caps would be the best bang for the buck from this selection?

 

 

4E8F4AFD-2CD4-43F1-8934-AD5FCB919223.png

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5 hours ago, moray james said:

the voltage rating can be lower, as low as 100 volts but the capacitance values should be as close as possible if you wish not to change the crossover points. There are many threads in the archives on both modifications and upgrades of the crossovers for your loudspeakers. You might find some of interest.

Klipsch AA crossover schematic.jpg

Pretty basic schematic! Love it!! One coil or choke in series to the woofer +,  then  two paths otherwise, one to the squawker and other to the tweeter in series with capacitance and in parallel with different coils/chokes!

Reminds me of an Einstein quote: Everything should be made as simple as possible but no simpler.

John Kuthe...

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