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Heritage_Head

parts express kits

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2 hours ago, codewritinfool said:

I can tell you that Bill Fitzmaurice recommends Loctite PL construction adhesive for the THT build precisely because it expands to fill cracks.

The problem with PL Premium is that people (not you) talk about it as if there were only one.  There are several PL Premiums, I don't know which one to use.  I have used it before.  I suppose the advantage is you buy it in a tube and need a caulking gun so there is the cool factor, but it is overkill to the overkill most of us do anyway.  It comes out with the consistency of toothpaste, very thick.  It is NOT good for the precision CNC cut flatpacks exactly because it is so thick.  Titebond III is the right stuff.

 

I like Titebond much each better, either the white or yellow version.  The Titebonds are very strong for the cabs we are building, relatively inexpensive and easy to work with.

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The problem with PL Premium is that people (not you) talk about it as if there were only one.  There are several PL Premiums, I don't know which one to use.  I have used it before.  I suppose the advantage is you buy it in a tube and need a caulking gun so there is the cool factor, but it is overkill to the overkill most of us do anyway.  It comes out with the consistency of toothpaste, very thick.  It is NOT good for the precision CNC cut flatpacks exactly because it is so thick.  Titebond III is the right stuff.
 
I like Titebond much each better, either the white or yellow version.  The Titebonds are very strong for the cabs we are building, relatively inexpensive and easy to work with.


I agree with this. I think Bill recommends it because people (like me) who can’t cut absolutely perfect joints can still successfully build an air-tight THT.

If you have CNC cut stuff, Titebond is going to result in tighter joints and is fantastically strong.
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19 hours ago, jason str said:

 

Ultimax kit

 

The Kits only include driver & cabinet. You will need to buy a terminal cup, screws, stuffing and wire to complete the basic build.

 

I mention a terminal cup because i don't recommend installing the amplifier in the cabinet.

 

16 hours ago, Heritage_Head said:

I think I might give this a shot. 

I have used the smaller 10" version of the Ultimax several times. This one keeps up with my Hersey with 250 wpc plate amp. The 15" with your amp should be able to keep up with your LS (to a point).

IMG_4004.thumb.JPG.3d37cf81d68f5c64de75018a85d714bf.JPG
 

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2 hours ago, MookieStl said:

 

I have used the smaller 10" version of the Ultimax several times. This one keeps up with my Hersey with 250 wpc plate amp. The 15" with your amp should be able to keep up with your LS (to a point).

IMG_4004.thumb.JPG.3d37cf81d68f5c64de75018a85d714bf.JPG
 

Thats a pretty beefy 10". Nice. 

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2 hours ago, Heritage_Head said:

Well I found a svs pb10-nsd  for $175 perfect condition.

 

A 10" sub with a 300 watt plate amp for $175?  I don't see how you could do any better for the money. :emotion-21:

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5 minutes ago, wvu80 said:

 

A 10" sub with a 300 watt plate amp for $175?  I don't see how you could do any better for the money. :emotion-21:

I know....lol. Its not my first (or 50th) choice. 

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