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[veloceleste]

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[veloceleste]

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[JDJohnson]

Good idea.

 

[pzannucci]

Yes, did similar a long long time ago on Forte IIs.  As a matter of fact, I just bought a set of forte IIs and cleaned them up.  Added these from Amazon. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07FCRXJJY/

Need to lock them in better but work well.  The t-nuts can use some rework but would be great to make a little more solid with blocks of wood in the corners.

[glens]

If it's wobbly a matchbook in the lower loose corner always does the trick for me.  Unless you use jam nuts to lock those posts in position I could easily envision rotating a leg just walking the speaker back into position, for a net loss of time and effort installing the devices.

[oldred]

Great Idea.

 

 

George

[moray james]

personally I would not use a nylon inset I would use a metal one along with a little epoxy to keep it secure. I would also suggest using three inserts as opposed to four and this for some good reasons, Three feet will have a greater proportion of cabinet mass on each one (for greater loading) compared to using four and three spikes/feet will result in a far more stable footing being a tripod which is inherently stable while for feet are not, add to that how very easy it is to level and adjust with three feet vs the never ending issues with four feet you only ever need to adjust two of the feet for instant fore and aft adjustment with a tripod. Use a foot at each of the cabinets front corners and the third foot in the centre at the back. There are a variety of inserts to choose from, these shown are the strongest.

 

[veloceleste]

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[moray james]

you do not need to justify your choices. I made my comments as lots of people will read this thread and some may have different priorities. Glad that you are pleased with what you have.

[pzannucci]

I use mine to angle them correctly because I am not lifting them off the floor.  Simple with feet.

[veloceleste]

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[moray james]

I suppose that the obvious is not always so. A jam nut is require. A coarse pitch thread is also much more desirable than a fine thread on an adjustable foot such as this as the coarse angle of the thread will self jam where a fine pitch thread will spin much more easily and so go out of alignment even with a jam nut fine threads tend to slide with time and vibration of which there is plenty under a loudspeaker. This fact is also important to remember if you ever decide to install speakers into a cabinet using machine screws and  inserts rather than use wood screws, never use a fine thread for the same reason).

   I agree that on a carpeted floor that the low friction glides work very well and make moving the speaker easy to do nor will they ever tear up your foot or shoe as spike are apt to do when moving heavy speakers. You mentioned that with the four feet that you installed your speaker was "more stable than if they were resting on the bases alone". This is true and it highlights my comment of mass loading the feet. It should be obvious to readers that a tripod is always going to be more stable due to the nature of three point suspension when compared to four point. Not only is there more mass per foot which as you noted enhances stability the tripod base is infinitely easier to adjust. To do this set the single foot in the rear at a central mid thread height (don't lock it yet) then adjust one of the front feet to a similar mid thread height and lock that one in place. Now you can adjust the left to right tilt via the remaining front foot and lock it in place then do the same with the rear foot to adjust the front to back tilt and then lock it in place and you are done. Compare this to the never ending back and forth adjustments that drive people insane when using four feet and you will never want to go back to using four feet.

   For those who wish to use spikes it has been my experience that virtually no spike foot will penetrate the jute backing on its own on most carpets even if you place your full body weight on top of the speaker or stand. A good set of needle nose pliers are required to pull the carpet up past the point of the spike to let the spike penetrate the wooden floor below the carpet. The larger the angle of the spike the greater the problem it will have getting past the jute backing of the carpet. I like to use case hardened 1/4 - 20 concrete Ramset studs for carpet spikes. They are very hard extremely strong and they will stay sharp at the tip. Obviously on an exposed concrete floor you won't have this problem but you still don't want to damage the surface of the floor. On hardwood or laminate or lino or tile floors you can use a spike on a steel protector disk (with a small divot which prevents the spike from moving across the disk on its own) to protect the floor from the spike but it has with time become my favorite to recommend rather the use of an adjustable nylon glide. This is a much safer option. I find that most people insist upon using four feet as they somehow believe this will be more stable, with time or repositioning the spikes either come out of adjustment or the surface under them changes (due to speaker repositioning) and a protector pad inevitably slides out of place from under a spike and you have then damaged your floor with a nasty scratch. The nylon glide on the other hand glide provides excellent stability and floor coupling plus makes it easy to move the speaker and it will never destroy your flooring. 

In all but the most demanding of circumstances (ultra high resolution systems) nylon glides or Teflon (low friction) appliance glides are the preferred option as they provide both excellent coupling and at the same time allow easy positioning even with very heavy loudspeakers or equipment racks.

Sorry for such a long winded comment but over the years I have seen punctured feet damaged shoes destroyed speakers and very expensive floors over the misguided use of spikes when all the while better more appropriate and safe options were easily available. I wanted to explain the rational behind the recommendation so there might be better understanding.