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Emile

R-115SW sub for CF-3's?

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Isn't this going in a rather smallish listening room? If so, you're trying to cram the proverbial square peg in a round hole like those other speakers you had. There's a point of diminishing returns here. 

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2 hours ago, billybob said:

Does the 15 have a line out

Nah :( 

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1 hour ago, avguytx said:

Isn't this going in a rather smallish listening room? If so, you're trying to cram the proverbial square peg in a round hole like those other speakers you had. There's a point of diminishing returns here

Yes; but hard to give it just a "try" for $250 :D 

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I’ve messaged him and no reply yet


Dollar for dollar Klipsch has no equals
Name one other speaker company that can build a speaker and keep working like new after 45 plus years of service. Answer NO ONE !!!!!!

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9 hours ago, Emile said:

Add-on ... also found a 10" R-10SW  sub for $140. Think it would be "too small" to compliment my CF-3's :( Specs say 32Hz ... jeez; my CF-3's can do that.  But the R-115SW shows 18-125Hz :) 

 

My LF-10 Pro can do 22-100Hz for $100.  I just bought another one in excellent condition for $130.

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My LF-10 Pro can do 22-100Hz for $100.  I just bought another one in excellent condition for $130.

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Dollar for dollar Klipsch has no equals
Name one other speaker company that can build a speaker and keep working like new after 45 plus years of service. Answer NO ONE !!!!!!
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@Emile Put a Y on your preamp outputs.  Send one leg to your amp and the other to your sub.  If the sub only has one line in, use a Y and sum the 2 signals together at the plate amp.

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40 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

Put a Y on your preamp outputs.  Send one leg to your amp and the other to your sub.  If the sub only has one line in, use a Y and sum the 2 signals together at the plate amp.

Thanks! But ... but ... if I sum the 2 signals at the sub plate amp, won't they be also "summed" at the preamp, meaning I have now lost L/R??

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16 minutes ago, Emile said:

Thanks! But ... but ... if I sum the 2 signals at the sub plate amp, won't they be also "summed" at the preamp, meaning I have now lost L/R??

No.  L and R come out of the preamp.  Use 2 Y's to make 4 RCA's.  2 L and R go to your amp.  The other 2 go to your sub plate amp.  If you don't have L and R in at the plate amp, use a Y to sum the signals.  This can also be done at the pre if necessary so you don't have to run 2 cables to the sub.

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8 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

No.  L and R come out of the preamp.  Use 2 Y's to make 4 RCA's.  2 L and R go to your amp.  The other 2 go to your sub plate amp.  If you don't have L and R in at the plate amp, use a Y to sum the signals.  This can also be done at the pre if necessary so you don't have to run 2 cables to the sub.

Thanks ... but do not fully understand :(  OK; 2 Y's at the preamp gives me 2 pair of L/R's.  If I Y (sum) one of these pairs, I effectively connect both preamp L/R outputs - meaning losing L/R info and the 2nd pair of L/R's will have lost the L/R info also.  Hope I am wrong :D 

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12 hours ago, Emile said:

Yes; but hard to give it just a "try" for $250 :D 

If your up for a trip to Miami, perhaps a sub upgrade from Hsu would fit the bill, at only double the price, before a little haggling that is. 😀 On an up note, you can use it for several years and still get around $400 or so, when you want to sell it.  

https://www.avsforum.com/forum/209-audio-gear/3079552-fs-hsu-uls15-mk2.html

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8 minutes ago, Emile said:

Thanks ... but do not fully understand :(  OK; 2 Y's at the preamp gives me 2 pair of L/R's.  If I Y (sum) one of these pairs, I effectively connect both preamp L/R outputs - meaning losing L/R info and the 2nd pair of L/R's will have lost the L/R info also.  Hope I am wrong :D 

Einstein-at-the-bat.jpg

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@TasDom ... yes; exactly. We seem to have a discontinuity in the L/R space-sound continuum :D 

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41 minutes ago, Emile said:

Thanks ... but do not fully understand :(  OK; 2 Y's at the preamp gives me 2 pair of L/R's.  If I Y (sum) one of these pairs, I effectively connect both preamp L/R outputs - meaning losing L/R info and the 2nd pair of L/R's will have lost the L/R info also.  Hope I am wrong :D 

OK, at the preamp you have one pair of L and R outputs.  If you use 2 Y's you now have 2 L and 2 R outputs.  OK, so far?  One L and one R will go to your speaker amplifier.  The other L and R can be summed and go to your sub plate amp where it will receive a full signal.

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57 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

OK, at the preamp you have one pair of L and R outputs.  If you use 2 Y's you now have 2 L and 2 R outputs.  OK, so far?  One L and one R will go to your speaker amplifier.  The other L and R can be summed and go to your sub plate amp where it will receive a full signal.

Carl, thanks ... yes; completely understand ... but, do not understand how this would work :(  Problem I am having is with the "The other L and R can be summed and go to your sub." Let me try to explain my dilemma in a different way :) 

OK; at the preamp I have L+,L- and R+,R-.  If I "Y" sum these (does not matter where), I'll  get a "single" connector with L+&R+ and L-&R- ... I have effectively "shorted" the wires ... meaning they are shorted everywhere including at the preamp. If I put some Y's in to connect my main speakers, they will still be shorted, giving me identical (L+&R+ and L-&R-) signals, i.e no stereo.  

What's wrong with my logic?  Sincerely appreciate you educating me. :D 

Thanks, Emile

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10 minutes ago, Emile said:

What's wrong with my logic? 

Logic seems fine.  I've done this in the past but don't recall any issues.  The other thing you could do is not sum the RCA's going to the sub and run R and L subs;)

 

Let me do some more digging.

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I'm going to suggest a little different direction you can go.  The main bottleneck you are dealing with is the old Kenwood preamp that doesn't have a sub out. Perhaps, you could ponder the idea of ditching it for something more modern. How about a slim line Marantz Nr1504.  It has pre outs to use your power amp and an rca sub out which will make everything easy.

  https://www.ebay.com/itm/Marantz-NR1504-5-1-Channel-50-Watt-Receiver/273946380884?epid=175666030&hash=item3fc87a0a54:g:AEkAAOSwnstdPJae  

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You could use your tape out for the sub but you'd need a separate volume control.

 

 

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9 minutes ago, Shiva said:

ditching it for something more modern

Haha ... just got it to give my CF-3's a little more oomph (220wpc) :D 

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Every picture I see of the back of the R-115sw shows two line ins - one for left and one for right;  I couldn't open the listing for your item, so I couldn't check it.  But it seems you should just be able to do the y connector at the C2 - and then follow the diagram below, replacing the sunfire sub for yours.  I have done this before and it seems to work.  There are also wireless options - dayton audio - https://www.parts-express.com/dayton-audio-sub-link-xr-24-ghz-wireless-audio-transmitter-receiver-system-for-subwoofers--300-580

sunfire-hrs-12-page12.png

 

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