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Coytee

Help on a tractor question (vibration abatement)

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I've got an International 1066.  It might come as no surprise to know that it has......  two rear wheels (along with two front wheels)

 

The rear axle's however are not round/oval....  but rather, let's say they're octagonal.  They have several flat surfaces.

 

Sandwiching the axle's are two steel plates.  (how to describe this....)

 

The bottom plate is 1" thick and we'll call it 10x12 inches.  It has some steel welded to it with (for example) a 3" gap creating not one but THREE flat surfaces.  These surfaces mate to the flat surfaces of the axle.

 

Lemme see if I can find a picture.  I just love it when I can find a picture.

 

So you have the upper and lower plate.  These are wrapped around the axle and the ROPS/Canopy vertical arms are what's attached to these.

 

Looks like that canopy structure is working as a megaphone for any vibrations in here and REALLY making it loud when the fenders start to vibrate.

 

I was told I can greatly diminish my vibration noise if I can put a piece of rubber or something in between those to help isolate the canopy arms from the axle.

 

Anyone have any thoughts on what I can use and where I can buy something like this?  (needs to be weather-durable too)

 

I took fenders off for while to paint them and when off, the noise was 90% abated.  Problem is, they're back on now.  I'm going to try to get some rubber bushings or something to help isolate them from the vertical arms.

 

Meanwhile, this extra noise can drive you nuts!!

axle.jpg

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A drilled hockey puck? Some subframe bushing from a aftermarket automobile performance company? A urethane skateboard wheel?

I'm still having trouble picturing how large of a isolating surface you have to work with

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Your axle chain look's like a make-shift U-Bolt, and new rubber will probably be like lipstick on a pig except where the absence of grease is involved, ... so, explore a new rear-end, new transmission, and new engine, or just another tractor...

 

cadillac tractor.jpg

  • Haha 1

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7 hours ago, windashine said:

Your axle chain look's like a make-shift U-Bolt,

 

I noticed that too when I took the picture.

 

That chain is non-existent on the tractor.  If memory serves me, this was probably when I was using the chain (square link, grade 100) to wrap around the axle so I could hoist it (the entire side of tractor) so I could rotate the wheel to see if I could better isolate the sound.

 

There are five 1-inch (if I recall) bolts that hold the sandwich together, you can just barely see one of them.

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Here's different angle.  If you look at the bottom plate, you can see another angled piece of steel.  It's form fitted to go around the axle housing so it won't rotate.

 

I need to remove these again, put some kind of cushion in between them, then remount them.

 

I'm imagining something like a 1/8" or 1/4" sheet of rubber or something like that.  Something that can be fitted to the dimensions and will lay flat enough that the three sides of each piece will form fit around it too, encapsulating the axle carrier in something that will absorb some vibrations.

Axle 1.jpg

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1 hour ago, Coytee said:

Here's different angle.  If you look at the bottom plate, you can see another angled piece of steel.  It's form fitted to go around the axle housing so it won't rotate.

 

I need to remove these again, put some kind of cushion in between them, then remount them.

 

I'm imagining something like a 1/8" or 1/4" sheet of rubber or something like that.  Something that can be fitted to the dimensions and will lay flat enough that the three sides of each piece will form fit around it too, encapsulating the axle carrier in something that will absorb some vibrations.

Axle 1.jpg

Horse stall mat should work but it comes in bigger pieces than you need. I use a piece in my radio shack under my chair when talking on the air. Tractor supply sells them so it would have to work on a tractor lol! Or a Rural King or any farm store in your area. Im going to a the Keck-Gonnerman tractor show today I think. They made steam powered tractors back in the day. Put in Keck-Gonnerman on you tube and check out the old steam power in action.

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... o O (put weights on the front axle)

thinking this will alter the weight distribution.

The rubber idea seems good, but if there's that much vibration, the rubber will shred.

 

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question - how old are the rear tractor tire's and how much air pressure is inside... 

I'm refusing to believe 5 huge bolts on each side of the canopy adapter connector thing can be further fixed as is...  short of taking it off, and just wear a hat.

 

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=== how about filling all exposed cavity’s with tubes of clear silicone? And isolate the fenders with same. Could be a PITA if/when dissembling is required but the silicone will flow into any and all nooks and crannies a solid isolation mat can’t maneuver. 

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Until you fix the problem, get someone else to drive the tractor,  preferrrably one who is cute.

200.gif

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2 hours ago, windashine said:

... o O (put weights on the front axle)

thinking this will alter the weight distribution.

The rubber idea seems good, but if there's that much vibration, the rubber will shred.

 

 

I don't have any weights on the front....tractor didn't come with any and I've not found any close by yet.  I'd like to get some.

 

 

 

1 hour ago, windashine said:

question - how old are the rear tractor tire's and how much air pressure is inside... 

I'm refusing to believe six huge bolts on each side of the canopy adapter connector thing can be further fixed as is...  short of taking it off, and just wear a hat.

 

 

All tires are pretty new....  to the point of still having some nubs and "flashing" on them (the thin part between the two mold halves)  Tires are in excellent shape.  I don't know that they're filled but, I suspect they are.  I have no idea of PSI, I've never checked.  I did drive down road once and at a certain road speed, started to hop.  I presumed that was the fluid sloshing in them so simply backed down and ride was smooth (for a tractor).  It's not really the canopy that's making the noise (it might be the CAUSE, but it's not the source).  The fenders seem to magnify the noise so removing them will alone, greatly reduce the noise (don't want to remove them) and in order to have them, I need the canopy arms.

 

 

38 minutes ago, richieb said:

 

=== how about filling all exposed cavity’s with tubes of clear silicone? And isolate the fenders with same. Could be a PITA if/when dissembling is required but the silicone will flow into any and all nooks and crannies a solid isolation mat can’t maneuver. 

 

That's interesting thinking....  I can barely lift one of these vertical posts as is...  my current thought is to put something between there if I can and in addition, put some rubber grommets or something where the fenders bolt on.  Turns out the tractor doesn't have the 'correct' fenders on it.  The factory fenders had some isolation mounts to prevent this kind of noise (so I'm told).  The original fenders have a single pocket for a single fender mounted light (in addition to the front of tractor lights).  The fenders on mine have double pockets so each fender has two lights (and it's BRIGHT with six different LED bulbs blasting away!!!)  Anyway, it seems the wrong fender is part of the root of my problem.  (I'm not going to change fenders, it's not THAT big of an issue and I like the double lights)

 

 

36 minutes ago, Shiva said:

Until you fix the problem, get someone else to drive the tractor,  preferrrably one who is cute.

200.gif

 

Well...  my wife doesn't like to mess with these things and getting a girlfriend to do it would be bad politics at home.... 

 

You've exposed the quandry I'm in.

 

 

  • Haha 2

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Old mud flaps off a semi truck. Cut to size. Place on top of the axle under the top of the ubolt. Two or three layers. 

 

 

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@Coytee

 

Check woth Grainger's. Look for nitrile or chloropene rubber. For higher temps, silicone rubber. All are resistant to most oils.

 

Bruce

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Isolation might help, but another idea is stiffening and or changing the natural frequency of the fenders. Maybe weld on some flat bars or similar? 

 

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... o O (hmmm... tractor vibrations)

 

well, tractors are tough, they're made to work hard and well... so, drive the tractor into your barn, position it with clearance on both side's for an overhead hoist,

and begin... (it's Sunday, we have all day)

1.  remove the hood

2. remove the cylinder head and drop the oil pan.

3. take loose the connecting rod's on the crankshaft (note - use a piece of mdf plywood to keep the pieces in order after removed)

4. clean everything and weigh the individual parts on a gram scale making notes for later filing and shaving

5. with the crankshaft fully exposed - rotate and wiggle - and observe a moment as (that portion of time, in your mind, as you remember how the vibration interacted)

6. since it's about the middle of the day - eat lunch and think about all the help you can receive on your favorite speaker site !

7.  (to be continued)

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8.)  considering that International Harvester was bought out by Case, and the classic concept that old tractor's never die... explore a retrofit kit for the operator.

 

 

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5 hours ago, windashine said:

8.)  considering that International Harvester was bought out by Case, and the classic concept that old tractor's never die... explore a retrofit kit for the operator.

 

 

 

Do they use one engine to steer it?

JJK

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Go to Amazon and search anti-vibration pad. Lots of sizes, materials and configurations.

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