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Repairing loose screws.

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Hey everyone, I would like to know the proper way or options on fixing up some klipsch rf5's. The screw holes that hold the driver into place are loose and just spin. I can't just rotate and pre drill new holes because the way the mounting point is shaped, it only fits one way. Should I just get some wood glue? Fill the holes and pre drill again? Thanks. 

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Welcome, not familiar with that model but what about hurricane or T nuts from the inside ?

081-1088_HR_0.jpg

s-l300.jpg

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Remove the driver and mark the wires and terminals if there are no markings or note where they go if marked.

 

Glue some toothpick pieces flush with the motorboard or slightly recessed with wood glue.

 

Insert the old screws 3/4 of the way in and let dry 24 hours.

 

Remove the screws, install the driver and reinstall the screws.

 

Check the driver gasket in the process and be sure its in good shape.

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What Jason said is good. I've also used wooden match sticks. I've never put a screw partway in until the glue is dry, though. Just let it dry and then mount the driver.

 

Bruce

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Q-tips work great as well. Cut the cotton off and stick the other end into the over sized hole and place the horn back in


Dollar for dollar Klipsch has no equals
Name one other speaker company that can build a speaker and keep working like new after 45 plus years of service. Answer NO ONE !!!!!!

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Minwax makes a wood filler in a tube with a nozzle tip. The nozzle tip makes it easy to fill the holes. Then re-drill the holes.

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Last but not least you can drill out the stripped hole and glue in a dowel rod and re drill a new hole for the screw.

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Maybe it would be prudent, especially with MDF, to, after removing the screw the first time, grasp the threads with some scotch-brite and twist around a bit to dull any sharp edges / snags.  Thereafter use a little wax or soap on the threads prior to installation.

 

With MDF the best solution is machine screws with captive blind nuts (assuming no horns or drivers rear-mount to MDF).  As far as merely filling the hole I'd be inclined to use several fine flat toothpicks as opposed to the harder round type.  Even before that I'd probably use paper matchstick bodies; along with wax or bar soap in the smoothed screw threads.  Maybe a time or two before drilling through for the blind nuts.

 

In ply or solid wood there's considerably less concern with any "patch" tearing out a larger-yet cavity.  That's why with "particle board" I like a more pliable medium with sufficient body which will conform smoothly yet build/maintain sufficient pressure.

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