Jump to content

2nd Dayton MKBoom Build Thread


DizRotus

Recommended Posts

It won’t take a charge.   With the supplied 12v PS plugged in it plays, all LEDs are illuminated, Bluetooth, Aux-In, and volume control work, but it doesn’t take a charge. Unplug the PS and the music stops and LEDs go dark instantly, except “charging” LED, which fades to dark gradually.

 

With the PS plugged in and the switch OFF, no LEDs are illuminated and it failed to charge overnight.  All connections were double checked and battery polarity confirmed.  Suggestions?

 

I sent an email to PE tech support, but don’t expect a reply until Next week.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Greg from PE tech support replied to my Sunday email before 8am EDT today.  He suggested testing the batteries with a "meter."  After labeling the batteries A, B, or C, using a DVM, they tested as follows:

  1.  A= 4.20v;
  2.  B= 0.00v; and
  3.  C= 4.21v.

Apparently, B is a dud.  Greg said it will be replaced under warranty.  I should have checked them prior to assembly, but I'm not sure the problem would have been evident prior to charging.  The takeaway is to confirm proper operation, including charging, prior to mounting the module into the case.  The fewer times those tiny wood screws are screwed into and removed from the MDF (or even the hardwood plugs I glued behind the MDF) the better.

 

I hope and expect a new battery to resolve the charging issue.  In any case, it would be unscientific and ill-advised to do further diagnosis until the known variable is addressed.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The second MKBoom arrived yesterday.  This one will be a gift to my nephew.

 

As before, it arrived well packaged.  The lower attached photo was taken after removing the panels from the foam packaging and prior to gluing on the dowels.The first task is to glue the hardwood dowel sections to the screw locations to give the attachment screws more to bite into than thin MDF.

 

FYI, the first MKBoom, when wired as instructed, has the left and right channels reversed,  This was first noted when the initial percussion on Brubeck's Take Five was in the right channel, rather than the left as recorded.  The reversed wiring was also confirmed by a system test program.  On this one, I'll confirm proper left channel/right channel orientation before final assembly.

 

Now the question is whether to see if my son cares about the reversal on his.  If he does, it can be corrected, but I suspect he won't care.

 

IMG_0893 (Medium).JPG

IMG_0892 (Medium).JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Epiphany!  

 

I was wondering how to test for left/right channel orientation without having to solder and possibly remove and re-solder the leads to the crossovers.  Then it hit me, by putting the back on last, there is no top or bottom to this thing until I install the feet and the handle.

 

With that in mind, I can pass the leads through the sidewalls, solder the leads to the crossovers, and play Take Five and a test program.  I can flip it over until the percussion is on the left, and then put the handle on the top and the feet on the bottom and the back. 

 

DAA77B1E-A173-4FE9-943B-6518350BADBB.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, DizRotus said:

I was wondering how to test for left/right channel orientation without having to solder and possibly remove and re-solder the leads to the crossovers.

Just solder then either way.  If the L and R are reversed, flip it upside down.:P

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

That's the plan.

 

This time I checked the rechargeable batteries immediately.  They all showed ~3.5v before charging. 

 

I'll assemble the amp/control module and test it prior to the weekend.  With good weather over the weekend I should get it Duratexed and playing this weekend. 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The previous generation of Harley's Touring line sound system had a HK head unit with a CD player.  Radio and CDs had the proper channel routing but MP3s burnt to disc had to have the channels swapped while encoding else they'd play swapped.  I never told them (and never ran across mention of the phenomenon) so I guess it's my fault the final firmware download on their site, now several years old, leaves that situation intact.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I won't get it done today.  I still need to reach in through the motorboard holes to seal the seams where the back panel is glued to the sides, top, and bottom.  I need the Titebond to cure first.  I want to avoid sealing in moisture?

 

Following the sealing with RTV Silicone, I’ll use a router to round-over the hard corners , and then fill and sand the exterior seams.  It should be ready for DuraTex next weekend, if the weather cooperates.

 

The screws visible in the attached photo are attachment points for the rubber feet that will be attached to the bottom and the back.

 

A7C70F16-CA0D-4D99-B8B7-433390051873.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The interior joints and seams are sealed with RTV silicone.  The crossovers are in place.  The driver openings are taped closed.   Next the hard edges will rounded over by a router.  The exterior seams will be filled, and the whole thing will ready for Duratex.

 

CF8010AE-124A-4DAB-AB81-D05B107C8B78.jpeg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...