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DizRotus

2nd Dayton MKBoom Build Thread

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The plywood glue blocks are clamped into place.  I’ll be more comfortable with six of the 8 screws anchoring the control plate going into more than thin MDF.  That center chamber is not sealed; the bass reflex speaker chambers on either side are sealed.

 

The top is resting in place so the dado cuts hold the MDF in alignment until the glue blocks dry.

 

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The crossover networks need to be installed before the top will be glued into place.  After anchoring the networks to the floor of the enclosures, the leads to the amp will be hot glued, where they pass through the chamber walls, to seal the speaker chambers.

 

I plan to put rubber feet on the bottom and the back, so plywood blocks need to be glued into place so the feet aren’t screwed into MDF.  Similarly, plywood blocks will be glued to the underside of the top to attach the handle.  Without the blocks, the handle screws would eventually pull loose from the MDF.

 

Before the top is glued into place, I’ll seal the interior joints and seams of the bass reflex enclosures.

 

After the top is glued and clamped into place, I’ll smooth the exterior joints and seams and probably use a router to round-over the right angle corners.  

 

They intend the plastic port tubes to just press into place.  I will glue them into place from the inside prior to installing the top.  Therefore, the areas of the port locations were DuraTexed to make final painting easier.

 

 

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Based upon my experience to this point, I would NOT recommend this kit as a gift for a novice DIYer.

 

IMO, the fact that wood screws are used in thin MDF is a deal breaker.  I would not assemble this thing without reinforcing the thin MDF with hardwood and/or plywood attachment points.

 

Beyond that, the wiring instructions are, IMO, inadequate and ambiguous.  Rather than a single comprehensive PDF with all necessary diagrams, there is a PDF regarding the enclosure assembly, the attached “wiring diagram” and references to three short and fast videos.

 

The attached wiring diagram suggests multiple connectors at a single point, e.g., #5, #9, & #12 all connecting at a single location not large enough to accommodate all three.  Regarding the Speaker Cable #1, the cable supplied has four identical black wires coming from it.  The “assembly video” shows the input connectors (visible in the photo attached to the post above) being cut off the crossovers and the wires then being soldered to the speaker wires.  No mention of the need to confirm and preserve polarity.  Sure that’s obvious to a seasoned DIYer and easy to accomplish, but not to a beginner to whom this thing is marketed.

 

Perhaps I’m dense, or I’m missing something.  What is your experience Justin @justinsweber, or anyone else?  

 

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To be fair to PE, the speaker wire connections are labeled on the board, but it is up to the assembler to make certain that the proper identical black wire is soldered to the correct wire of the correct crossover; easy for an experienced DIYer, not so easy for a novice, especially without a warning.

 

The other end of #7 (loose in the attached photo) connects to the rechargeable batteries board, but at which of three possible points?

 

The Bluetooth antenna (visible in the attached photo) has a self-stick backing.  If the assembled amp/control board module is to be removable in the future, e.g., to replace the batteries when they no longer take a charge, the antenna must stay with the module.  It would be nice if a suggested attachment point on the module were offered.  I can imagine that some possibilities are better, or worse, than others.

 

I still expect it to look and sound great when done, but, IMO, this is NOT a project for beginners.

 

 

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The amp/controller board was a total pain.  If they combined all the documentation in one place it would be amazing.  I like a dumass built the cab before installing the crossover. As a result. I’ll drill hole for the crossover and use nut/bolt combo. 

Things I’d like to improve.... documentation. If it was better it would become their best seller. 

2, it should be easier to add a 2nd batter back. There is some confusion on the site about how to make it happen... extending usable time with more batteries... esp as there appears to have room would be great.  Lastly. There is a 50watt version of the amp. Might be fun to swap in.  

If someone takes their time (1hr to read everything and line it up) it’s pretty straightforward. Parts express could help with better/more videos of this.  Your pics are super helpful.  I just built the boards out and your pics helped me realize I forgot to install crossovers first.  

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2 hours ago, justinsweber said:

The amp/controller board was a total pain.  If they combined all the documentation in one place it would be amazing.

 

Agreed!

 

To which point on the battery board did you attach the cable?  A photo would be helpful.

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I’m way from it till Monday night. I’ll shot a pic. It would be fun to post on parr’s express message board and see about battery expansion.  

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Unless there are more leads going to the battery pack than just the plus and minus, you should merely parallel them.

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1 hour ago, glens said:

Unless there are more leads going to the battery pack than just the plus and minus, you should merely parallel them.

 

There are.  If it were that simple it would be done.

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A prompt and helpful reply was received from Greg at PE Tech Support.  He told me where to stick the Bluetooth antenna (in the kindest way possible).  He also advised that the connection from the KAB-230 could be to any of the three same sized receptacles on the rechargeable batteries board.  While the prompt and helpful support is great,  better instructions would have been even greater.

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Here are my build pics.

Re amp board to crossovers. I desoldered the connectors off the crossover and soldered 2 of the black wires +/_ directly to the crossover PCB inlace of the red/black.

Ive read you can add a 2nd battery, PE wasn't clear on how this is done and Ive read that you can kill the board hooking it up incorrectly.

 

 

 

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Yes but not playing music. Just with a volt meter. 
Next step is to mount crossover in cab. Nut/bolt. Then solder the black leads Into place. The. Finish and add feet. 

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18 hours ago, justinsweber said:

I desoldered the connectors off the crossover and soldered 2 of the black wires +/_ directly to the crossover PCB inlace of the red/black.

 

I’ll probably do the same; the black leads are plenty long enough.  I can see why PE suggested removing the connectors and splicing, rather than expecting novices to desolder and resolder at the PCB, but expecting a beginner to have heat shrink tubing about is almost as bad.

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Followed Jason’s lead (as always, pun intended) and soldered the speaker leads directly to the crossovers.  Hooked everything up for test run prior to gluing on the top, filling, sanding, routing, and applying DuraTex.  Everything worked.  The Bluetooth took a lot of time to connect.  Hopefully it will connect faster going forward.

 

Naturally, judging the SQ is not possible until the enclosure is completed.  It’s extremely unlikely that will occur this weekend.

 

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Warning to Justin @justinsweber or anyone else who builds one of these.  

 

Do do not use the holes provided to pass the speaker wires through the walls of the bass reflex enclosures.  By the time you hot glue the wires into place as instructed, the wires encroach upon the space needed for the control module.  Using the shortest stand-offs supplied, the module just barely fits.  If Justin were to add a second battery board, the module would NOT fit.

 

If I build another, I will fill the original holes and put new holes closer to the front.  That would avoid interference with the control module.  There’s room to go forward before interfering with the woofer.

 

 

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The box is almost ready for DuraTex.  I’ll do the round-overs with the router in the morning.  The box cleaned up nicely with a little Bondo and the palm sander. I must not be using the palm sander correctly . . . I still need glasses.

 

I’d post work in progress pics, but it started to rain.  I’ll do it in the morning.

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17 hours ago, rockhound said:

More interested in how it sounds :)

 

Me too.  Perhaps Sunday.  After DuraTex, I’ll remove the tape over the driver openings, then reach inside to seal the joints at the underside of the  top.  Only then can I install the drivers, feet, and handle.

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Sounds like a plan. Looks like it was a bit of a pain to get this far with it. I really like the sure bt/amp boards will be curious how this one compares.

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