DaveA's Fabulous New Improved Super Tweeters 2.0

[Budman]

really would like to put these in the slants. love the look of the V1's

 

 

[RickD]

What driver fits the LMAHL v2?

[Dave A]

If you look at the drawing there are four possible bolt patterns. The 2.252, 2.008, and one of the 3.00 sets of holes are center to center and for 5mm screws. The other 3.00 hole is for .25" screws. The list of drivers that can fit is quite long and I have never gone though all manufacturers sites to make a comprehensive list. Generally the places where the LMAHL V2 is used there is plenty of clearance for most any driver you might find. Places like Parts Express or US Speaker will have dimensions of various 1" drivers  that can fit. One of the original intents of these LMAHL's and SMAHL's was the ability to experiment with various drivers you had on hand or were interested in buying new. Just because it will fit does not mean it will work well though and it has been really tough to beat the DE-120 or DE-10. Many drivers are listed in metric so the following shows both " and mm.

 3" = 76mm

2.252" =  57mm

2.008" = 51mm

 

 

 

 

 

[RickD]

Dave - How do these LMAHL lenses compare sonicly with the SMAHL that I currently have using the DE-120?

[Dave A]

4 hours ago, RickD said:

Dave - How do these LMAHL lenses compare sonicly with the SMAHL that I currently have using the DE-120?

If you go back to the very first post Claude made in this thread he explains better than I could the difference along with curves he generated.

[pcbiz]

They sound wonderful. I sold the original tweeters immediately.

[ClaudeJ1]

On 6/9/2021 at 11:20 PM, RickD said:

The walnut smahl tweeter lenses I received  have a slightly rough texture inside the elliptical. Would there be a sonic improvement by sanding the wood to a smooth finish?

No.

[ClaudeJ1]

On 6/22/2021 at 12:27 PM, Budman said:

really would like to put these in the slants. love the look of the V1's

 

 

Be aware that as the co-driving force behind all this, I tested LOTS of drivers that DaveA shipped to me. None of the name brands could beat the 2 B&C drivers chosen, not even a few from B&C, although those were the closest to the DE-120.

 

It's also important to point out that that the difference between V1 and V2 of the LMAHL is marginal, so even if you get a V1, I doubt that you could tell the difference with your ears.

 

The most difference is between the sMAHL v1 and v2, with the greatest improvement there. Again, the DE-120 is so good that even there your ears might not know the difference, but there is a much greater difference/improvements in the MEASUREMENTS with the V2 sMAHL.

[RandyH]

4 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

The most difference is between the sMAHL v1 and v2, with the greatest improvement there.

 

[ClaudeJ1]

2 hours ago, RandyH said:

6 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

The most difference is between the sMAHL v1 and v2, with the greatest improvement there.

 

And even then it may not be audible.

[RandyH]

19 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

may not be audible.

Tx  Claude , very appreciated

[neosoul]

Has anyone tried these tweeter upgrades in the Klipsch quartets? If so please tell me your impressions.

[Albatross]

I hope this post is in the right place. If not I will move it.

I have been following this site since 2007, and have fully enjoyed your insights on all things Klipsch. I have bought a pair of Cornwall I’s that I’d like to make into Cornscalas. I have purchased a Crites  500/5000 Hz crossover for modification, and after following Claude, I became enamored with the idea of using EV DH1A’s (6 ohm) for the squawkers with a ZXPC 11” x 17” (which I have purchased), and the B&C DE10’s with the LMAHL from Dave A (not yet purchased).  The squawkers, tweeters, and crossover will be configured in an open baffle, time aligned, top hat with one of the wire runs from the external crossover feeding the K33 woofer inside the box.

I’ve held off on buying the LMAHLs from Dave A. For about 8 months now because I can’t figure out my crossover. I’m new to mods, and I think I have gotten over my head in the area of crossovers using the auto former (the 3619, similar to the T2A, but with more fine tuning). I’ve read many threads on using these autoformers, but realize my understanding is limited still. I understand the attenuation aspect, but only for similar impedances. The difficulty lies in the fact that the desired EV DH1A according to Claude is the 6 ohm one (8 ohm nominal), but the crossover is set up for the Atlas which is 16 Ohm. There is a 16 ohm version, but Clyde feels the 6 ohm sounds better, and I own it.   I am not sure how the impedance difference effects my choice of taps on the 3619, or the capacitor change. Here is djk’s answer: "I guess all I am sure of is that this is a 6 ohm driver, not the 16 ohm driver. That means it's the 8Ω version, move it down one tap on the crossover and all should be well. “  He was talking about the T2A, but I believe moving mine from tap 2 to tap 1 will work on the 3619?

I do have enough know how to match the B&C DE10 with the DH1A since they have the same impedance. I hear that I will use the natural roll off of the DH1A between 3k and 4k, and high pass the tweeter with a capacitor around 4.7uF. I am asking for help in getting this project up and running. Could somebody help me understand how the auto former works when the impedance is changed too, and then how does that affect the capacitor? or is there a thread on the subject that will help me? Do I need a MiniDSP and mic, or can I get close without out it?  Once I get this information I will get the LMALs and write a critique on the results.  Much thanks to any and all help!

 

[Crankysoldermeister]

A new thread would have been better. 

[Dave A]

You sent me a PM to see if I could help. I think Dean is right and you should start a thread on your problem. Insofar as looking to me for guidance I would not know where to begin. When you start throwing parts together like this from different systems I have no idea how to make them play together nor do I even know if they will play well together.

 

  I would suggest you get an autoformer from Crites that would allow for 1 db increments to be able to better dial in your drivers and would cover a wider range then that T2A.

[Crankysoldermeister]

Need spec sheet for that driver. Need sensitivity and hopefully a response curve. 
 

He has a 3619, which will work fine for what he is trying to do. 
 

@Marvel 

[Albatross]

Thank you Deang and Dave for your responses. I will start a new post, and try to answer your questions Deang. 

 

 

 

[Marvel]

2 hours ago, Deang said:

Need spec sheet for that driver. Need sensitivity and hopefully a response curve. 
 

He has a 3619, which will work fine for what he is trying to do. 
 

@Marvel 

Eh...?

 

I don't know anything about those drivers. I DO have 3619s in my crossovers, can't even remember how I used them, although I am using EV 1828 drivers, with 8 ohm diaphragms. They are all going away next week, though, as I'm giving them to my older son. I have a digital crossover, other horns and 2 inch drivers to get set up. I still have to get some XLRs and cable to wire everything up, so it will be a while.

 

I'm just a loon...

[Crankysoldermeister]

Ha ha. Why am I remembering some back and forth with you and Dennis about this driver. Well, I’ll search the archives at the Asylum tomorrow. 

[Albatross]

3 hours ago, Dave A said:

 When you start throwing parts together like this from different systems I have no idea how to make them play together nor do I even know if they will play well together.

 

 

After researching the last few months, I believe that the only wild card in the equation is the ZXPC horn. It looks like Claude likes a Constant directivity horns with the DH1A, but this will be my starting point.