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Shindo Labs Amp(s) Recommendation


Wolfbane

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Any recommendations for a Shindo Labs amp to match with my SL Preamp? Authorized Dealer here, unlike home so I can request a listening session for specific models. No Klipsch speakers there though.

 

I prefer something in the 15 to 25 WPC range, not KT88 based. EL84 or EL34 or something else SE within the WPC range specified.

 

Wb

 

 

 

 

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1 minute ago, seti said:

I would be Shindo from the time period Shindo was alive. I'm not sure what happened after his death. Still great looking gear.

 

 

 

Yes, I'm looking for an amp, preferably lower wattage and maybe SET from the days of Ken Shindo's design work. His son Takashi has taken over the design work from Ken's death in 2014  for new products but an original Ken Shindo amp would be a nice  match for my pre-amp.

 

Wb

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35 minutes ago, Jeffrey D. Medwin said:

 

 

I am thinking of a Japanese parallel here.  In the case of Isamu Asano, who developed a SE DC 2A3 amp, of Japanese acclaim, his son Tadashi  took over the design upon Isamu's demise, maybe around 2006.  Tadashi did two things I detest, to his Dad's circuit !!  For one, he added a negative feedback loop to the SE 2A3 amp, so it plays out of time to the music !!!  Secondly,  an other questionable change was to add hum pots, to the 2A3 filaments.  He interjected a diode effect, between the pot and the wiper's contact, to the critical signal path of the 2A3 cathode's return to ground................... without engineering it properly. 

 

Wolfbane, I feel you are barking up the wrong tree, looking for older Shindo gear.  It will not be that high in audio performance !!!  There are people in the USA who build good stuff.

 

You probably should look for a 8 to 12 watt Push Pull amp, with NO NEGATIVE FEEDBACK, and a great low DCR power supply, if you run traditional vintage Corner Horns.  The vintage Klipsch speaker, with a three way crossover, and inefficient wiring, excludes the optimal use of the very best SE amps,  ( which would typically be with 2A3 outputs, 2 to 3 Watts or so, that we have discussed. )

 

The best SE amps need to be used with a highly efficient speaker that is ideally at most,  a two way speaker.   I run a two way speaker at my home,  and I won't  use any crossover at all, on the 15 inch horn-loaded woofer.  Just a roll-off on a compression tweeter driver.  ( 515B, 802D, A7-8 ).  Sometimes, less is more !!  

 

Surely, someone makes a decent no feedback low power Push Pull amp in the USA , with a good supply.  Not 6BQ5 amps, but Push Pull 6CK4s, 6AH4s, 6AQ5s, or 2A3s could be made to really PERFORM and run rings around what is available !!!  If you did DIY, I'd develop plans for you to follow !!

 

Well, that's how I see it, my opinion.  YMMV.

 

Jeffrey Medwin

 

JUST FOUND THIS, WILL LOOK SOME MORE.

 

Wolfbane.thumb.JPG.589eca359dabe75decdf51966b2c1a11.JPG

 

Another quick example found :

 

https://www.diyaudio.com/forums/tubes-valves/236536-4p1l-push-pull-amp-lundahl-zero-global-feedback.html

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hi Jeffrey,

 

I'm pretty sure most people here could build a better amp or anything else that requires soldering expertise. I'd also probably burn the house down trying.

 

I do have a buddy that can solder in his sleep and pretty much do anything with electronics that a professional shop can (he quickly resolved an issue with one of my tube amps a couple of years back that the local tube amp expert could not (was getting a slight buzz in my Klipsch Belles at low volumes from a hairline crack - not visible with the naked eye in one soldered joint on one capacitor). He is not returning from his job in Montana until next May at which time I plan to help him build a new workshop on the rural property he purchased. In exchange, he will very likely 'help' me analyse, repair, upgrade, or build anything I need a hand with. In both cases, I'll be the chief assistant and he's the journeyman. I have the skill to build an excellent (all galvanized screw wooden fence with 6"X6"X10' posts and no sag gates) and do most mechanical work on motor vehicles & can match him in this regard as we have done lots of this kind of work together since meeting in High School, but I draw the line at doing body work on cars/trucks (he can and does do all of his own body work). I also don't like rebuilding automatic transmissions and changing gears in differentials (he does this too).

 

Never, say never, but I'd need to really up my skill level if I ever decide to get into soldering.

 

Greg

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8 hours ago, Jeffrey D. Medwin said:

If you feed a small portion of the signal that has gone through the amp stages, (and is at the Finals stage ), back to the new, incoming Input stage signal, and combine them in any way, you are now amplifying both signals, the new and part of the old.  Sadly, the new ( pure )  Input signal is now polluted, with a portion of a now-time-delayed Output signal. 

 

Jeffrey Medwin

I think perhaps you are under a misapprehension about the time-scale of the signal travel time through the amplifier, in comparison to the time-scale of the musical rhythm.  The time delay is totally insignificant.

 

There may be other objections that could be levelled at feedback in some circumstances, but a time delay that interferes with the beat of the music is not one of them.

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