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Need help with la scala bass bin


-Russian-Spy-

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   So i'm having some issues with my la scala's bass response.  One cabinet has a significant difference in bass response, one cabinet has pretty clean punchy bass, and the other... Well not so much.  I am getting sound from the woofer, but it seems pretty thin with a significant drop in percieved volume (the bass does not sound full), maybe 6db.  Does this sound like a sealing issue? Any thoughts?

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Did it just start doing it, did you notice a gradual loss of sound, or has it always been that way? Is there any rattling at volume? It could be sealing, woofer damage to cone, surround or coil, loose mount, crossover failure. Did you try switching channels of wires between amp and speakers to eliminate amp issue? Sounds like you're gonna have to break into that cabinet.

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37 minutes ago, MechEngVic said:

Did it just start doing it, did you notice a gradual loss of sound, or has it always been that way? Is there any rattling at volume? It could be sealing, woofer damage to cone, surround or coil, loose mount, crossover failure. Did you try switching channels of wires between amp and speakers to eliminate amp issue? Sounds like you're gonna have to break into that cabinet.

They are recently acquired, i purchased them a month or two back. The crossovers are new crites a/4500's, and i did investigate possible amp/channel issues, and it is related to the cabinet.  I assumed id have to open them up and investigate,  but i could use some direction with type of sealant to use.  Is there a sealant i can get from the hardware store? Or would parts express/other online vendor really be the only way to go?

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Different locations in the room produce different bass characteristics.    Put your right speaker where the left one is now, and vice versa, and see if the bass problem follows the bass-shy speaker.   If it does, it may be the speaker.  If it doesn't it may be the room's "boundary gain." 

 

Paul Klipsch recommended putting La Scalas in corners for maximum boundary gain.  If a La Scala is out in the room (where some "audiophiles" put their speakers), away from any walls, and is moved to a position against a wall, actually almost touching the wall, a gain of about 3 dB, mostly in the bass, should happen.  If it is then moved into a corner, almost touching, you should get another 3 dB or so.  So that's a total increase of 6 dB, mostly in the bass.  Since the power demand in music is often greatest in the bass (even if you use a sub below about 80 Hz, there is plenty of bass power needed between 80 Hz and 160 Hz where the leading edge of bass attacks occur) the boundary gain is useful, and as PWK said, it is like exchanging a 100 watt amplifier for a 400 watt amplifier, without extra strain on the speaker.

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Next easiest check is swap the crossovers.  After that, if needed, I'd play some gradual tone sweeps and check for rattling, buzzing, huffing, chuffing, etc.  Beyond that comes opening to check wire terminations / connections and measure the resistance of the voice coil, both directly and through the wiring. .

 

Your nearby homecenter will have some foam weather seal or such if you think the hatch cover needs it when you eventually go back together.

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Are they in phase?

 

Before opening the bass bin I’d confirm all connections at the crossovers.  I’d also try the suggestions above regarding swapping networks side to side, as well as swapping the speakers side to side, changing one variable at a time.

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4 hours ago, DizRotus said:

Are they in phase?

 

Before opening the bass bin I’d confirm all connections at the crossovers.  I’d also try the suggestions above regarding swapping networks side to side, as well as swapping the speakers side to side, changing one variable at a time.

I would think that one speaker out of phase would cause an overall lack of bass, not diminished bass from just one speaker.

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4 hours ago, jason str said:

The bass bin gasket material may have turned to a sticky mush by now, scrape off the old and get yourself some new stuff such as this.

 

Overlap the ends and slice both even, remove the excess material and but the ends up.

Welp, i opened up the hatch, and the cover was not secured very well, most of the screws were not very tight at all. The gasket is definitely mush, there is deteriorated gasket material on the hatch and cabinet.  Will report back soon.  I would post some pictures, but i keep getting an error "-200" 

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28 minutes ago, -Russian-Spy- said:

Welp, i opened up the hatch, and the cover was not secured very well, most of the screws were not very tight at all. The gasket is definitely mush, there is deteriorated gasket material on the hatch and cabinet.  Will report back soon.  I would post some pictures, but i keep getting an error "-200" 

 

My apologies, that was my routine on round installs though you could 45 deg. the corners in that fashion with a square.

 

Just make sure you cut the tape tight and straight at the seam so there no chance of a leak.

 

Follow John's instructions and check wiring while you're in there.

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46 minutes ago, jason str said:

 

My apologies, that was my routine on round installs though you could 45 deg. the corners in that fashion with a square.

 

Just make sure you cut the tape tight and straight at the seam so there no chance of a leak.

 

Follow John's instructions and check wiring while you're in there.

ALSO, check the machine screws holding the woofer to its motor-board...tighten as necessary!  I tend to get them all snug, then, one at a time remove each machine screw, add a lock washer and a flat washer to it, then replace it.  This is why:  Over time the plywood of the motor-board will actually shrink some in its THICKNESS...but with the addition of a flat washer up against the woofer frame, and then a standard lock-washer between the flat washer and the machine screw head, you will be good to go for defeating this from happening again in the future.  

 

Another thing is to be careful when replacing the woofer access panel....with the speaker upside down on a soft surface, apply pressure with one hand to the CENTER of that door panel, while tightening ALL of the screws to where they are SNUG, FIRST...then one at a time, while still applying pressure to the center of the panel, finish tightening the screws...but be VERY CAREFUL to NOT over-tighten them so that the screw-heads sink DEEPER into the wood panel, and especially not to let the point of those screws go thru the bass bin bottom panel so that their points are sticking up into the bass bin, itself.  Also, if you over-tighten those wood screws, they may strip-out enough wood so that you will have to make a "wooden match-stick and glue" repair to the holes the screws were in, so that they can get a "new grip" there.  By all means, use a hand-screwdriver for this and NOT A POWERED SCREW-GUN or DRILL!  TRUST ME! 

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11 hours ago, -Russian-Spy- said:

Welp, i opened up the hatch, and the cover was not secured very well, most of the screws were not very tight at all. The gasket is definitely mush, there is deteriorated gasket material on the hatch and cabinet.  Will report back soon.  I would post some pictures, but i keep getting an error "-200" 

Try resizing your pictures smaller.

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If you have not done this yet I would loosen and re-tighten all connections on crossover. You can use just about any sealing foam...parts express shipping is crazy if you dont order a lot.  I also got these for my K-horns when I rebuilt the crossovers. https://www.parts-express.com/erse-super-q-25mh-16-awg-500w-inductor-crossover-coil--266-908

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