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ngen33r

RT-10 / RT-12 REPAIR BLOG

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Hello All

 

I have been repairing Klipsch subwoofer amps for about 15 years as a hobby. I have decided to start blogging my repairs and eventually do videos of each one. This thread is intended to be a blog and a resource for information. I will try to answer repair questions as best I can. Comments and tips are also welcome, If you do not have the experience or the tools, PLEASE do not attempt any of these repairs. You will only end up damaging the board and it will end up costing more for a tech to repair the damage. If you do not have a high quality vacuum desoldering station (Hakko or Weller) and a current limited mains supply, you should not be working on these amps. These subwoofers do not have any user serviceable parts inside. If you open up the sub or attempt any repair you see in this thread, you are doing so at your own risk!!!

 

Wayne
 

Edited by ngen33r
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RT-12 Plate serial number B207010042

 

This amp was having a power supply issue. I was not getting main power out or either rail on the op amps. This moves the problem to the primary side of the transformer. The fuse was not blowing, but the supply would not come on. After inspection I found that burnt glue was causing a short between R5 and the PCB. I used my hot air station to soften the glue and remove it and once removed, I replaced all of the caps on the board. I generally only use Nichicon 2000hr+ caps. This was one of the easier repairs on this model aside from removing all the bad glue.

 

ALWAYS REMEMBER TO UNPLUG OR SWITCH OFF YOUR AMPS. CAPACITORS HAVE A LIFESPAN AND WHEN POWER IS APPLIED THE CLOCK IS TICKING. THE AUTO ON/OFF FUNCTION DOES NOT PREVENT THIS ON MOST MODELS!!!!!!!

Inked20191123_152032_LI.jpg

Edited by ngen33r
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RT-12 Plate serial number 06440047

 

This amp was not getting any power on the secondary side of the transformer. A know weak point is the controller board 660045-1 failing. This was not The case with this amp. Pin 2 connects to the power supply that is on the board. This pin had voltage, but also a lot of noise. This noise will not let the supply start or properly regulate. The only way to see this is to look at pin 2 with a scope Pin 3 is the common and connects to the negative side of the rectifier. Pin 6 will have over 300V present. If you are poking around and slip, you will do some damage or worse shock yourself. The noise points to a bad capacitor, which is the only thing that pin 2 connects to. Replacing this cap brings the supply back to life. The whole supply will be recapped and it should be good to go. 

NewFile1.jpg

20191124_231600.jpg

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RT10BK PLATE SERIAL NUMBER 06270328

 

This amp was not getting power. The supply control module failed and needed to be rebuilt. I rebuilt the control board and did a full recap on the amp. Now, good as new.

 

20191219_002423.jpg

Edited by ngen33r

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RT10CH PLATE SERIAL NUMBER 06240152

 

This amp also suffered from a damaged power supply control board and needed to be rebuilt. Once complete, a full recap and it successfully cooked my 10in test woofer. Note to self lower the volume level before connecting an input signal. Some people have their settings way too high!!!20191219_024205.thumb.jpg.199a94f25707e1a6285a05d281a11d12.jpg

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RT10BK Plate serial number A906270037

 

This amp had a short on the secondary side of the power supply. I had to remove all the glue and replace a ceramic cap. I also did a full recap.

20200101_175002.jpg

20191229_003706.jpg

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RT12BK Plate serial number B206340078

 

This amp had some board damage from burnt traces. I repaired the traces and did a full recap after removing all the glue and it is back in service.

20200102_021711.jpg

20191229_223210.jpg

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RT10 Plate serial number A908400036

 

This amp has some nice browning glue causing all sorts of havoc on the power supply. The glue all has to be removed and the whole amp needed to be rebuilt and recapped.

20200118_031634.jpg

20200118_031645.jpg

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Posted (edited)

RT??

 

Here is another that I am working on. It really sucks to see work that is this bad. I had to replace 20 thru holes on this power supply section, because whoever attempted the first repair didn't have the proper tools. $3 a thru hole starts to add up. I am about 40% through this one so more to come.

 

BEFORE

20200308_152546.jpg

 

AFTER

20200309_015816.jpg

Edited by ngen33r
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Well it is time for new control boards. Some of these 660045-1 boards are too far gone to repair. Here is my prototype that I am ordering to try out. I rolled my own layout on the board to reduce traces going under parts. More to come when boards arrive. 

660045-1.JPG

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Hi Wayne i have a similar amp that is popping fuse on my rt-10d. Are you able and willing to Help with the troubleshooting? I have the board out of the the sub

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On 4/18/2020 at 10:41 AM, Dejan said:

Hi Wayne i have a similar amp that is popping fuse on my rt-10d. Are you able and willing to Help with the troubleshooting? I have the board out of the the sub

 

I can try, but it will be like a blind man throwing darts.

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I have received some messages about the control board, so I will share this with everyone. This has all of the unmarked component values on the control board.

 

 

20200227_110628.jpg

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Finally got around to assembling one of these boards and testing. Worked great the first time so I will post the schematic for some of you. I am currently on summer break from repairs so my posts will be less frequent.
 

20200628_161634.jpg

Capture.JPG

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