Jump to content

Sub-10 / Sub-12 / RPW-10 Repair Blog


ngen33r

Recommended Posts

On 4/28/2020 at 7:20 AM, ngen33r said:

I would recommend removing parts from board. Clean good, put tape on back of the board and fill hole with epoxy.

I will send the pictures in a message.

Failure of BASH board causes the resistors to burn like that and damage the board.

thank you bro! Now I can try to restore it! I'm not sure I can do it fast, but I will write here about the results after...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

I have a Klipsch "SSUB10+05360296" (per the sticker) plate amp assy that is not working, not burnt, no visible damage, that I will give to someone who is willing to pay shipping from Seattle area. It does get a rumbling sound to the speaker but I am unwilling to spend the hours and $$ to fix it. Picture upon request.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

23 hours ago, Kaare said:

I have a Klipsch "SSUB10+05360296" (per the sticker) plate amp assy that is not working, not burnt, no visible damage, that I will give to someone who is willing to pay shipping from Seattle area. It does get a rumbling sound to the speaker but I am unwilling to spend the hours and $$ to fix it. Picture upon request.

 

I will take you up on the offer - thanks!

Please send me payment details.

🙂

Edited by dudaindc
Link to comment
Share on other sites

As I said, all the power transistors in the sound amplifier and power supply turned out to be working! The only thing I could find fault with - you can see in the photos...
Thank you again for your help! The owner of this device called me a magician and left very pleased(But it’s not about money).
P.S. I have a bunch of exclusive stuff in the repair archives, therefore, I will be happy to help you with any information available.

20200516_165843_.jpg

20200516_165923_.jpg

20200519_171654_.jpg

20200521_175901_.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

12 hours ago, alhim said:

As I said, all the power transistors in the sound amplifier and power supply turned out to be working! The only thing I could find fault with - you can see in the photos...
Thank you again for your help! The owner of this device called me a magician and left very pleased(But it’s not about money).
P.S. I have a bunch of exclusive stuff in the repair archives, therefore, I will be happy to help you with any information available.

 

 

 

 

 

I have to say, nice repair. I would not have thought to go old school and do point to point. For personal use, why not as long as it works.

 

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RPW-10 PLATE SI-00129

 

This plate is a trade in repair. I am trying to clean up my parts box that is overflowing, so I am going to start punching these out so I can get more organized. Typical repairs on this one. TH3 exploded, fets were shorted, PDC failed. Full recap and Q5 upgrade completes this one. The thru holes for the fets had damage from an attempted repair, so I had to freaking fix those.

 

IF YOU DON'T HAVE A VACUUM DESOLDERING TOOL CUT THE DAMN LEADS AND SAVE THE THRU HOLES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

 

 

 

20200522_231209.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

RPW-10 PLATE A506220506

 

FINALLY, something different. This failure was not one I have seen before. C31 appears to have prematurely evacuated and caused all sorts of issues. Z2 was toasted, Q5 evaporated and R51 failed. The BASH board was taken out as well with a blown diode, transistor and the IC. The IC's are a pain in the *** to replace because of the glue or epoxy used to try and hide the UC3842 chip. The board did have some damage to the copper plane under the cap, probably from the electrolyte. This is a fairly easy spot to repair. 

 

Best guess, Q5 failed and took out the bash board and caused Z2 to fail. R51 then failed from heat due to the current draw. When the bash board stops working the voltage on C31 goes over 100V, which it is only rated for and that would cause the leakage. Normal voltage is around 90V. This is why on later revisions this cap was upgraded to a 160V version. It is still OK to use a 100V cap here, as long as the amp is working properly. Go 160V if you want to play it safe.

 

As usual, glue removal and Q5 upgrade with a full recap.

20200522_235047.jpg

20200523_032519.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 3 weeks later...

Hi,

 

I have Klipsch sub 10, I replaced the IRF740  moSfet that was bad, took off most of the glue but in doing so I  ripped off one of the capacitors C32,  and I can no longer tell what the value is. So If someone here could kindly tell me witch cap I need it would be appreciated.

 

Thank you

 

qZ5piILBNEYfQfo4WfFi5CmqNZbfCG9posECBgX9

 

AM8P0KLfwLmk5X75UlhRVc62ILE39EmspRvRf0RQ

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...
On 6/7/2020 at 2:03 PM, thebighat99 said:

Hi,

 

I have Klipsch sub 10, I replaced the IRF740  moSfet that was bad, took off most of the glue but in doing so I  ripped off one of the capacitors C32,  and I can no longer tell what the value is. So If someone here could kindly tell me witch cap I need it would be appreciated.

 

Thank you

 

 

 

 

 

 

I cannot see the pictures, but I will look that up when I can.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Thanks ngen33r! Your info helped me repair my Sub-12 and it sounds great. It was blowing fuses; I rebuilt the PDC board, recapped it, replaced the FETs and TH3. I also found the input diode bridge was shorted, so after replacing that, it's back in business. I could not have fixed it without this thread.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Hello,
I have a Klipsch RPW-10 in repair. Defective equipment - swollen PSU capacitors, damaged Q5, Z2. I applied all the recommended changes, but I do not know the type or zener voltage of the Z2 diode (it works with the Q5 transistor). The diode is burnt and the code cannot be read. Please help identify Z2 (zener type or voltage). Thank you very much in advance...

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 7/13/2020 at 9:33 PM, Wetdog said:

Could we get a parts list.  I am having issues finding the correct items.  Digikey item numbers would be great.  TH3 and other common items.

 

There is no parts list.

TH3 is a DSP104

10ohm 4A inrush limiter.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On 28.07.2020 at 16:01, Miro19 said:

Witam,
mam w naprawie Klipsch RPW-10. Wadliwy sprzęt - spuchnięte kondensatory zasilacza, uszkodzone Q5, Z2. Zastosowałem wszystkie zalecane zmiany, ale nie znam typu ani napięcia Zenera diody Z2 (współpracuje z tranzystorem Q5). Dioda jest spalona i nie można odczytać kodu. Proszę o pomoc w identyfikacji Z2 (typ Zenera lub napięcie). Z góry bardzo dziękuję...

 

IMG_20200730_150827_763.JPG

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

×
×
  • Create New...