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Sub-10 / Sub-12 / RPW-10 Repair Blog


ngen33r

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On 5/9/2021 at 1:40 PM, ngen33r said:



Cleveland, OH

They can be repaired, but depends on the problem and what you feel they are worth. I am swamped and not taking anything new until I can catch up.

 

Just joined since my Sub 12 is now blowing fuses.  I did check the resistance of the speaker and it is 4.5 ohms so it appears to still be good to go.  Just curious if you knew if a replacement amp for the Sub 12 model is available.  If not, do you know if a replacement amp for a Synergy Sub 12 would work (Part number 1012532...replaces part 119511 - US version)?

 

Reason for asking is because I have found one of those.  I really like the sound of the sub in the room it is in so don't want to start looking for a replacement.  Also like how it is a down firing 12 with the port in the rear.  The larger down firing subs are harder to find.

 

Thanks in advance.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 4/10/2021 at 5:34 PM, Can’t Solder said:

Ngen33r, where are you located?  I bought 2 used Klipsch sub 10 subwoofers ( with quintet III) from Goodwill auction.  I liked the first speaker set with the Quintet III so well that I got another set with the sub 10.  Both worked fine, until the second started blowing fuses.  Now my first one has no sound, but the power stays on.  They are probably not worth fixing.  I contacted Klipsch, but they won’t give me a schematic on them.  I probably can’t fix them anyway?  From what your writing, it sounds like there is no way I can cheaply fix them?


Cleveland. I have a massive waiting list but I do have some trade-ins listed on eBay.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Very interesting.  I'm working on a Polk PSK125 and discovered the PDC board used is exactly the same.  Perhaps it's a rebrand or OEM Part as it is labelled INDIGO.  I'll have to do some research and see.  I think the PDC is also the source of my troubles, which is a crackling noise followed by blowing fuses.  Significant burn damage to the rear of the PDC board.   In the Polk amplifier the PDC board sits next to a couple of resistors that seem to get very hot.  I'll be replacing the resistors with something that can handle the heat a bit better, but trying to decide the approach to repairing the damaged the back side of the PDC board.  Trying to decide if I can simply jumper the appropriate traces to prove that's all the damage and then perhaps its best to design and fabricate another board and replace it altogether. 

 

The traces on Pins 1 & 2 of J6 have been obliterated and the outer layer of the board damaged up to the level of the lower diodes

 

 

WIN_20210723_21_32_44_Pro_LI.jpg

WIN_20210723_21_31_21_Pro.jpg

CIMG2012_LI.jpg

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 11/24/2019 at 3:47 AM, carlthess40 said:

Have you ever done or seen the LF-10 sub?
I think Klipsch only made it for one year
One 10” and two 10” pas drivers and a 500 rms amp. Mine is dead , green light comes on but no sound
The resistor were 1k ohm instead of the 750 ohm. everything else was the same my card was a indigo  PDC like in the picture.  Mine was working but I pulled out too replace it and that was the only thing different on my card 1k ohm  instead of 750 ohm 

Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

 

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On 8/6/2021 at 9:01 PM, ngen33r said:

I have new PCB's for that part if yours cannot be repaired. 

 

I've been having fun mapping out a replacement board using ExpressPCB and will first try to etch a replacement.  Currently stalled because I'm having trouble sourcing the NTE6412 DIAC up here in Canada.  Seems there is lots of NOS availability in the US, but shipping as high as $28 to get one up here.  So biding my time until I can find one or travel across the border again post covid 🙂 Digikey had an equivalent HT60RP, but it also is obsolete and they recommend a DB4 as a replacement.  However the breakover voltage is lower (35-45) and I don't know enough about the design to know if they are suitable substitutes..

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9 hours ago, RandyH said:

here it is on Amazon.ca.......Free shipping  , could be low value for Customs

 

https://www.amazon.ca/NTE-Electronics-NTE6412-Bilateral-Breakover/dp/B007Z7N9WC?language=en_CA

 

 

$26.99 for a $2 part shipped from the U.S. is not what I would consider reasonable 😞.   Especially if I wish to get more than qty 1.   I have time to either find one locally, or wait until I can cross the border and get one at a better shipping cost.

 

Edited by RadioCaledon
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  • 3 weeks later...

I have a sub-10 that is basically never been used.  Bought it for my dad 15 years ago, he never really used it, so he recently gave it to me.  It distorts with a metallic sound at even low-medium volume.  As a complete novice, I figured there was a voice coil issue.  I replaced the speaker with a new crewin Vega.  Sounds exactly the same.  Keeping in mind that I don’t understand most of what is on this site, is there anything I can try?  Hate to waste this.

thanks in advance.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

I have a SUB-10 with no sound.  The LFE signal appears to be working as the Auto-On is going from sleep mode to on when receiver seems to be sending a signal.  It was working for some time after the replaced the capacitor and added thermal paste circled in green. 
 

I am trying to troubleshoot myself for a learning opportunity.  
 

testing resistance on sub yields 5.3ohms, is this acceptable?  I believe it’s an 8ohm sub and thought that I should be around 6.4ohms or 20% of 8ohms. 
 

just trying to see if I can do use basic tools to trace root cause. 
 

I really like the sub and would love to avoid ditching it. 

43564259-D1D1-4E41-B35C-06E7E813FF7D.jpeg

Edited by Latinskllz
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1 hour ago, Latinskllz said:

 

I really like the sub and would love to avoid ditching it. 

Welcome, sorry but i can't help with finding your problem.

 

But if you wanted to keep it you could use a outbard or stand alone amp, no reason to ditch the sub. A regular amp could be hooked up and just put the bad amp back in it's place so the cabinet space stays the same. 

 

.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 1/13/2020 at 7:52 PM, ngen33r said:

SYNERGY SUB-12 PLATE SERIAL 06230184

 

This amp was blowing fuses. The PDC control board failed and took out the mosfets. I had to clean and rebuild the PDC, replace the fets, replace Q5 and TH3. TH3 is almost always bad when fuses are blowing. After the board was working, a full recap was done on the amp.The active crossover was especially fun due to all the damn glue used.

20200113_220218.jpg

20200113_220202.jpg

Are you able to help me fix mine, something is happening to  mine 

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