eduardofsjr Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 @Krisztoszteron I just measured 1.000 k ohm. It is possible to read “102” (1000 ohms) at R20 in my last picture too, if you need a picture reference of another board. At output, there are 4 capacitors (3300 uF 80V) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 I could only find a through-hole technology (THT) resistor, so I tested it using that. However, the voltage remains high at the output, and the resistor that I replaced is getting warm. Therefore, I'm assuming that something else is also faulty, which likely caused the original 1k resistor to burn out. My power supply is not identical to yours. Upon examining the images, I noticed that there are additional components on your board that are not present on mine, and vice versa. My stock four capacitors are rated for 63V and has a capacitance of 2200uF. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Krisztoszteron Posted February 8 Share Posted February 8 Could you measure the optocoupler pins for me? I'm uncertain if there might be an issue, but my measurements seem to be incorrect. I'm obtaining the same value on the internal diode of the optocoupler when measured in reverse polarity as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eduardofsjr Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 2 hours ago, Krisztoszteron said: Could you measure the optocoupler pins for me? I'm uncertain if there might be an issue, but my measurements seem to be incorrect. I'm obtaining the same value on the internal diode of the optocoupler when measured in reverse polarity as well. U4: approximately 1 volt drop, both directions. U6: approximately 1 volt drop, just one direction U51: approximately 0.6 volt drop, both directions Parallel components affect measurements. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rossi32s Posted February 9 Share Posted February 9 Does anyone need these? $40 each/$80 for both, delivered anywhere in the US. I can assure you the SMPS boards are bad on both and the amp boards likely only need the caps around the resistor replaced(we would recap the whole thing if we were repairing them). The amp boards have not been worked on; The SMPS boards were likely thrown on the Huntron to determine the failure, and with all the white glue on the power supplies, we don't replace components covered in the glue. We are getting so many of these in that we have no desire to fix these excess units and sell them working. These come in from customers only wanting one fixed but send 2 for a discount on their repair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Håvardc Posted February 17 Share Posted February 17 On 1/23/2024 at 5:04 AM, Rossi32s said: Change the one circled in red.. 22uf 50v Thak you! That worked like a charm👍 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seb FR 33170 Posted February 21 Share Posted February 21 Le 23/01/2024 à 05:04, Rossi32s a déclaré : Changez celui encerclé en rouge.. 22uf 50v Hi, I had this "click" problem every 3 seconds. I replaced this capacitor and my problem is resolved. Well done and thank you Rossi32s. A little Frenchy 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
qwank Posted March 9 Share Posted March 9 I just pulled my amp off because my LED wasn't turning on with the subwoofer. That was just a loose connection, but I noticed some over heated caps and google sent me to this thread. I guess mine is on its way out anyday now Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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