R-110SW / R-112SW / R-115SW Repair Blog

[that1crzywhtguy]

Hi there! I just picked up a r-115sw free locally. It worked great for about 15 minutes when I tested it at home, then poof. No sound at all now. 

I found this thread and then poked around, seeking a dead resistor (started with r39). I don't see anything visually wrong at all, and r39 tested appropriately on my multimeter. 

Any other ideas of good places to start checking? I'd love to get this thing working! It would be replacing an energy 8" XL sub—a big difference. 

 

Thanks in advance!

[Rossi32s]

2 hours ago, that1crzywhtguy said:

Hi there! I just picked up a r-115sw free locally. It worked great for about 15 minutes when I tested it at home, then poof. No sound at all now. 

I found this thread and then poked around, seeking a dead resistor (started with r39). I don't see anything visually wrong at all, and r39 tested appropriately on my multimeter. 

Any other ideas of good places to start checking? I'd love to get this thing working! It would be replacing an energy 8" XL sub—a big difference. 

 

Thanks in advance!

Recap it,  especially the 6 capacitors closest to the resistor.

[that1crzywhtguy]

Cool I'll get on that. Anybody make a full list of cap values? 

 

The sub came back to life after some time and is working fine currently. When it went out I was really pushing it to see what It could do. 

 

Is it recommended to replace the resistor too even if it's not currently damaged? I'd be tempted to raise the watt rating on it, but would that pose a risk to other components? 

 

Thanks for the advice! 

 

-Sterling

[Rossi32s]

16 minutes ago, that1crzywhtguy said:

Cool I'll get on that. Anybody make a full list of cap values? 

 

The sub came back to life after some time and is working fine currently. When it went out I was really pushing it to see what It could do. 

 

Is it recommended to replace the resistor too even if it's not currently damaged? I'd be tempted to raise the watt rating on it, but would that pose a risk to other components? 

 

Thanks for the advice! 

 

-Sterling

If you scroll back a through this thread there are a few lists people made.  

[sanscorp]

I am also attempting to repair a 115SW and replaced all of the electrolitic capacitors. I have power (led is on) but no sound at all.

 

I also replaced the large (burned) resistor and the 31C fet.

 

I have an oscilloscope but just now and Inhave no idea where to start and how to safely measure on the amp board (not PSU).

 

I have not been able to completely remove the glue.. specially under the two TL047 quad amps.

 

Any hints on the removal of glue too?

My hot air just died on me so I'll have to wait anyway.

 

Thank you in advance!

[DzNutZZ]

R-112SW heartbeat ticking...I replaced r39 and the 3 caps around it and the cap behind the 2 larger caps and was still getting the dreaded ticking. A little voice in my head told me to check the TIP31C FET behind r39. After hooking back up to sub and without mounting amp plate (to check if the last cap replacement fixed the issue,it did not, it was still ticking). I put my finger on the caps to see if I messed up and left them loose and they were fine, next I put my finger on the FET and VOILA! The noise went away and sub is working properly. Ordered new FETS ( have 2 of these subs) and will replace upon arrival. Just thought I'd post this to help out as this forum guided me to fix the issue.

[Roamin]

I'm pissed .. My R-110w amp is popping and cutting off once again. First time I repaired it I only changed the Mosfet IRFI4019H and the amp IRS2092 and things were back to normal for about 6 months. I had ordered the caps but didn't recap it back then.. Few weeks ago the problem came back.. Decided to recap it then , and the problem seemed fixed for about 30 minutes , until it started again..  I ordered new mosfet , new TIP31c, new R39 , new amp and changed them all again, the issue still persists. The power to the collector of the TIP31c keep cutting off , turning off the amp.. until it gets power back again in about 5 to 10 seconds..  Kinda fed  up with this amp but at the same time I feel there's only so many parts left to change to really fix the issue..  It isn't the power supply , the +/- 15 volts , +/- 45 volts are all stable and never drop..

 

Edit: Might have inadvertently fixed it..  It has been holding up for a good amount of hours now. I decided I would monitor the CSD pin of the amp , to make sure it really was the part that was toggling off the amp and instead of holding my probe there until it cuts I followed the trace to the first part it was connected to, which is a surface mount ceramic cap (C11). I applied solder to the pad and connected a wire to run to my probe. The amp has not cut out since.. I monitored the signal for about 2 hours last night and it never dropped. Now the amp has been turned on for another 3 hours this morning and still hasn't cut out.  For a while it felt like when the amp was on the horizontal it wouldn't cut out but when I placed it back in the vertical position it would cut, leading me to wonder if something was kinda loose.. but eventually the issue still appeared no matter the position of the board. Since soldering that capacitor seems to have fixed it, it kinda matches the fact that in a certain position the amp would work better then on another.

Edited July 21 by Roamin

[Roamin]

Ooops, double posted instead of edit..

Edited July 21 by Roamin
double post.

[Luceri]

On 4/10/2024 at 10:03 PM, AlphaBass said:

I ended up giving up on the Klipsch amp that came with the subwoofer and replacing it with a Dayton Audio SPA1000 1000W Subwoofer Plate Amplifier purchase from Parts Express. The new amp sounds good. The only problem has been that the sensitivity for the amp’s auto-off function is too low and it turns off if the volume of the receiver isn’t loud enough. I have to turn up the receiver to movie theater volume to get the sub amp to turn on and that is often too loud for regular viewing (especially if someone in the house is sleeping). 

I just bought one of these spl-150s on closeout, knowing i'll likely have to go this route eventually. Was this particularly difficult to execute? Any guides you followed or advice?

 

Other thoughts i've had is to solder a 12v pc fan somewhere on the board with power to spare and actively cool the PCB with it. That, and change out the problematic resister pre-emptively. Prevention might be the best strategy here. 

 

 

[AlphaBass]

The old amp is easy to remove by removing the screws and unplugging the wires. I can’t remember if the new plate amp included a template or if I just measured it. I placed painters tape on the speaker box to protect the finish, marked out the new hole, and cut it out with a jig saw. New amp installation was easy to plug in and then screw to the box. 

[Temu]

Good evening! While repairing the circuit board, the positive side PTH of C18 came off with the capacitor. I tried to locate the trace for a jumper wire but couldn’t find it. Does anyone familiar with the board have any tips on where to place a jumper wire for the capacitor?

[aximath]

On 12/20/2023 at 10:27 PM, Xxerby said:

Hello everyone,

 

Excuse my translation, I am French, more precisely from Montpellier.

 

I just finished repairing my 115SW after almost 50 hours. I searched all the blogs, forums, videos that could allow me to fix it. I had at my disposal two HS amps. One of the two was used to do some retro engineering.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Hello everyone,

I begin like you Xxerby... I'm french and my english is so bad, i don't want to expose it here. So i'd like to share with you in french, i don't know if it is possible.

 

Je possède un sub r115SW qui fonctionnait avec mon ampli onkyo TX NR1001. Depuis que je l'ai branché sur mon nouveau marantz sr7015 aucun son ne sort. Au début j'ai cru à un mauvais paramétrage de l'ampli lors du setup mais ce n'est pas cela. Rebranché à l'onkyo, toujours vigoureux, il ne fonctionne pas non plus. Vu le nombre de post sur les pannes de ces modèles je ne doute plus de faire partie du lot des malchanceux. Ne connaissant rien à l'électronique je ne me risquerai pas à quelque aventure de réparation moi même. J'aurais donc juste un conseil à demander, sachant que : aucun son ne sort du R115SW (setup du onkyo comme du marantz, tous paramètres essayés), le voyant vert en façade reste allumé en position ON et AUTO, éteint en position STANDBY. Il a fonctionné au début mais je ne suis pas sûr que la panne soit due au changement au changement d'ampli (mes hp principaux sont des RF7 dont les basses sont si présentes que le sub ne se distingue que sur certains films qui vont bien). Le sub a été acheté fin 2020 chez son-video et la garantie est passée.

La question : - Dois-je tenter l'envoi du module ampli en SAV via son-video ou un autre SAV et lequel? Existe-t-il une autre solution: achat d'un module neuf (il en existe sur le net 200€ + 160€ de port env. quelle fiabilité?), acheter un ampli sono dédié pour le brancher en direct (comment? conseil?) sur le HP du sub ou autre, acheter un autre sub (??).

Quoiqu'il en soit je ne me lancerai pas dans la réparation moi même du circuit imprimé, chacun ses compétences.

Merci de vos conseils avisés. Si c'est nécessaire, je peux lancer un traduction automatique de ce post et la poster.

aximath

Edited August 31 by aximath
erreur initiale

[Rouxel]

Bonjour, on m'a confier R115SW que j'essai de réparer. Il s'allume brièvement, puis se coupe au bout de quelque seconde. Une société l'a déjà regardé, et a remplacer la résistance de puissance (probablement en mauvais état) mais cela n'a pas résolu le problème.

J'ai fait le tour de capa (mesure capacité et ESR) mais rien a signaler de ce coté.

J'ai bien mon 5v en permanence, et au démarrage j'ai brièvement le +15,-15 +62 -62 puis l'ampli passe en protection et coupe l'alimentation. Par la suite il ne démarre plus, je doit coupé le 5v pour pouvoir de nouveau démarrer.

Lors de mes recherche j'ai vu qu'en retirant la tension -15v, l'ampli ne se coupait plus, j'ai donc pensé a un problème sur cette ligne. En suivant on constate que ce -15v est plus loin sur la carte transformé en -5v qui sert a l'alimentation du IRS2092.

En retirant la résistance qui sert au passage du -15v vers le -5v j'ai pu mètre en  fonctionnement l'ampli, me permettant d'exclure la ligne -15v du problème et en me focalisant sur le -5v.

J'ai alors pensé au un défaut sur IRS2092 ou sur un des étage amplis, mais même en retirant physiquement du circuit le IRS2092 et les 2 IRFB4227 le défaut persiste.

Et a cette instant je me suis aperçu que la thermistance TH1 a coté des étage de puissance IRFB était aliment a partir du -5v. En lui mettant un coup d'aérosol givrant l'ampli ne coupe plus, mais dès le retour a température ambiante, l'ampli passe en protection.

J'ai donc retiré la thermistance du circuit (l'équivalent d'une résistance infini, et donc une température très faible) et plus de problème, mais plus de protection non plus.

Hors du circuit et a température ambiante je mesure la thermistance a 2kohms, 2k est une valeur possible de NTC, mais on emploi couramment des 10kOhms.

Est ce que l'un d'entre vous pourrait me dire la valeur de la NTC (marqué TH1 sur le circuit) ? @Xxerby @Itinérance

Je pense a une dérive de la valeur de la NTC, qui petit a petit amènerai l'ampli a ce mètre en protection, au point de ne plus vouloir démarrer même à température ambiante.

Si c'est bien cela, il faudrait être sur de la valeur de la NTC afin de la remplacer par la bonne, le but étant que l'amplis fonctionne sans risque de détérioration et cas de surchauffe

 

 

Hello, I was given R115SW which I am trying to repair. It lights up briefly, then turns off after a few seconds. A company has already looked at it, and replaced the power resistor (probably in poor condition) but that did not solve the problem.

I checked the capacity (capacity and ESR measurement) but nothing to report on this side.

I have my 5v permanently, and at startup I briefly have +15,-15 +62 -62 then the amp goes into protection and cuts off the power. Afterwards it no longer starts, I have to cut off the 5v to be able to start again.

During my research I saw that by removing the -15v voltage, the amp no longer cut off, so I thought there was a problem on this line. Following this we see that this -15v is further on the card transformed into -5v which is used to power the IRS2092.

By removing the resistor which is used to switch from -15v to -5v I was able to put the amp into operation, allowing me to exclude the -15v line from the problem and focusing on the -5v.

I then thought about a fault on IRS2092 or on one of the amplifier stages, but even by physically removing the IRS2092 and the 2 IRFB4227 from the circuit the fault persists.

And at this moment I noticed that the TH1 thermistor next to the IRFB power stage was powered from -5v. By giving it a shot of freezing spray, the amp no longer cuts out, but as soon as it returns to room temperature, the amp goes into protection.

So I removed the thermistor from the circuit (the equivalent of an infinite resistance, and therefore a very low temperature) and no more problem, but no more protection either.

Out of the circuit and at room temperature I measure the thermistor at 2kohms, 2k is a possible NTC value, but 10kOhms are commonly used.

Could one of you tell me the value of the NTC (marked TH1 on the circuit)? @Xxerby @Itinérance
I am thinking of a drift in the value of the NTC, which little by little will bring the amp to this meter in protection, to the point of no longer wanting to start even at room temperature.

If this is correct, you would have to be sure of the value of the NTC in order to replace it with the correct one, the goal being that the amplifier works without risk of deterioration and overheating.

[billybob1]

Bonjour

5 hours ago, Rouxel said:

Bonjour, on m'a confier R115SW que j'essai de réparer. Il s'allume brièvement, puis se coupe au bout de quelque seconde. Une société l'a déjà regardé, et a remplacer la résistance de puissance (probablement en mauvais état) mais cela n'a pas résolu le problème.

J'ai fait le tour de capa (mesure capacité et ESR) mais rien a signaler de ce coté.

J'ai bien mon 5v en permanence, et au démarrage j'ai brièvement le +15,-15 +62 -62 puis l'ampli passe en protection et coupe l'alimentation. Par la suite il ne démarre plus, je doit coupé le 5v pour pouvoir de nouveau démarrer.

Lors de mes recherche j'ai vu qu'en retirant la tension -15v, l'ampli ne se coupait plus, j'ai donc pensé a un problème sur cette ligne. En suivant on constate que ce -15v est plus loin sur la carte transformé en -5v qui sert a l'alimentation du IRS2092.

En retirant la résistance qui sert au passage du -15v vers le -5v j'ai pu mètre en  fonctionnement l'ampli, me permettant d'exclure la ligne -15v du problème et en me focalisant sur le -5v.

J'ai alors pensé au un défaut sur IRS2092 ou sur un des étage amplis, mais même en retirant physiquement du circuit le IRS2092 et les 2 IRFB4227 le défaut persiste.

Et a cette instant je me suis aperçu que la thermistance TH1 a coté des étage de puissance IRFB était aliment a partir du -5v. En lui mettant un coup d'aérosol givrant l'ampli ne coupe plus, mais dès le retour a température ambiante, l'ampli passe en protection.

J'ai donc retiré la thermistance du circuit (l'équivalent d'une résistance infini, et donc une température très faible) et plus de problème, mais plus de protection non plus.

Hors du circuit et a température ambiante je mesure la thermistance a 2kohms, 2k est une valeur possible de NTC, mais on emploi couramment des 10kOhms.

Est ce que l'un d'entre vous pourrait me dire la valeur de la NTC (marqué TH1 sur le circuit) ? @Xxerby @Itinérance

Je pense a une dérive de la valeur de la NTC, qui petit a petit amènerai l'ampli a ce mètre en protection, au point de ne plus vouloir démarrer même à température ambiante.

Si c'est bien cela, il faudrait être sur de la valeur de la NTC afin de la remplacer par la bonne, le but étant que l'amplis fonctionne sans risque de détérioration et cas de surchauffe

 

 

Hello, I was given R115SW which I am trying to repair. It lights up briefly, then turns off after a few seconds. A company has already looked at it, and replaced the power resistor (probably in poor condition) but that did not solve the problem.

I checked the capacity (capacity and ESR measurement) but nothing to report on this side.

I have my 5v permanently, and at startup I briefly have +15,-15 +62 -62 then the amp goes into protection and cuts off the power. Afterwards it no longer starts, I have to cut off the 5v to be able to start again.

During my research I saw that by removing the -15v voltage, the amp no longer cut off, so I thought there was a problem on this line. Following this we see that this -15v is further on the card transformed into -5v which is used to power the IRS2092.

By removing the resistor which is used to switch from -15v to -5v I was able to put the amp into operation, allowing me to exclude the -15v line from the problem and focusing on the -5v.

I then thought about a fault on IRS2092 or on one of the amplifier stages, but even by physically removing the IRS2092 and the 2 IRFB4227 from the circuit the fault persists.

And at this moment I noticed that the TH1 thermistor next to the IRFB power stage was powered from -5v. By giving it a shot of freezing spray, the amp no longer cuts out, but as soon as it returns to room temperature, the amp goes into protection.

So I removed the thermistor from the circuit (the equivalent of an infinite resistance, and therefore a very low temperature) and no more problem, but no more protection either.

Out of the circuit and at room temperature I measure the thermistor at 2kohms, 2k is a possible NTC value, but 10kOhms are commonly used.

Could one of you tell me the value of the NTC (marked TH1 on the circuit)? @Xxerby @Itinérance
I am thinking of a drift in the value of the NTC, which little by little will bring the amp to this meter in protection, to the point of no longer wanting to start even at room temperature.

If this is correct, you would have to be sure of the value of the NTC in order to replace it with the correct one, the goal being that the amplifier works without risk of deterioration and overheating.

 

[billybob1]

Bonjour

5 hours ago, Rouxel said:

Bonjour, on m'a confier R115SW que j'essai de réparer. Il s'allume brièvement, puis se coupe au bout de quelque seconde. Une société l'a déjà regardé, et a remplacer la résistance de puissance (probablement en mauvais état) mais cela n'a pas résolu le problème.

J'ai fait le tour de capa (mesure capacité et ESR) mais rien a signaler de ce coté.

J'ai bien mon 5v en permanence, et au démarrage j'ai brièvement le +15,-15 +62 -62 puis l'ampli passe en protection et coupe l'alimentation. Par la suite il ne démarre plus, je doit coupé le 5v pour pouvoir de nouveau démarrer.

Lors de mes recherche j'ai vu qu'en retirant la tension -15v, l'ampli ne se coupait plus, j'ai donc pensé a un problème sur cette ligne. En suivant on constate que ce -15v est plus loin sur la carte transformé en -5v qui sert a l'alimentation du IRS2092.

En retirant la résistance qui sert au passage du -15v vers le -5v j'ai pu mètre en  fonctionnement l'ampli, me permettant d'exclure la ligne -15v du problème et en me focalisant sur le -5v.

J'ai alors pensé au un défaut sur IRS2092 ou sur un des étage amplis, mais même en retirant physiquement du circuit le IRS2092 et les 2 IRFB4227 le défaut persiste.

Et a cette instant je me suis aperçu que la thermistance TH1 a coté des étage de puissance IRFB était aliment a partir du -5v. En lui mettant un coup d'aérosol givrant l'ampli ne coupe plus, mais dès le retour a température ambiante, l'ampli passe en protection.

J'ai donc retiré la thermistance du circuit (l'équivalent d'une résistance infini, et donc une température très faible) et plus de problème, mais plus de protection non plus.

Hors du circuit et a température ambiante je mesure la thermistance a 2kohms, 2k est une valeur possible de NTC, mais on emploi couramment des 10kOhms.

Est ce que l'un d'entre vous pourrait me dire la valeur de la NTC (marqué TH1 sur le circuit) ? @Xxerby @Itinérance

Je pense a une dérive de la valeur de la NTC, qui petit a petit amènerai l'ampli a ce mètre en protection, au point de ne plus vouloir démarrer même à température ambiante.

Si c'est bien cela, il faudrait être sur de la valeur de la NTC afin de la remplacer par la bonne, le but étant que l'amplis fonctionne sans risque de détérioration et cas de surchauffe

 

 

Hello, I was given R115SW which I am trying to repair. It lights up briefly, then turns off after a few seconds. A company has already looked at it, and replaced the power resistor (probably in poor condition) but that did not solve the problem.

I checked the capacity (capacity and ESR measurement) but nothing to report on this side.

I have my 5v permanently, and at startup I briefly have +15,-15 +62 -62 then the amp goes into protection and cuts off the power. Afterwards it no longer starts, I have to cut off the 5v to be able to start again.

During my research I saw that by removing the -15v voltage, the amp no longer cut off, so I thought there was a problem on this line. Following this we see that this -15v is further on the card transformed into -5v which is used to power the IRS2092.

By removing the resistor which is used to switch from -15v to -5v I was able to put the amp into operation, allowing me to exclude the -15v line from the problem and focusing on the -5v.

I then thought about a fault on IRS2092 or on one of the amplifier stages, but even by physically removing the IRS2092 and the 2 IRFB4227 from the circuit the fault persists.

And at this moment I noticed that the TH1 thermistor next to the IRFB power stage was powered from -5v. By giving it a shot of freezing spray, the amp no longer cuts out, but as soon as it returns to room temperature, the amp goes into protection.

So I removed the thermistor from the circuit (the equivalent of an infinite resistance, and therefore a very low temperature) and no more problem, but no more protection either.

Out of the circuit and at room temperature I measure the thermistor at 2kohms, 2k is a possible NTC value, but 10kOhms are commonly used.

Could one of you tell me the value of the NTC (marked TH1 on the circuit)? @Xxerby @Itinérance
I am thinking of a drift in the value of the NTC, which little by little will bring the amp to this meter in protection, to the point of no longer wanting to start even at room temperature.

If this is correct, you would have to be sure of the value of the NTC in order to replace it with the correct one, the goal being that the amplifier works without risk of deterioration and overheating.

Maybe those 2 will get back to you...

Welcome!

[makew]

Hello, it's great that you have taken these into account... The problem I have with the Klipsch 112-sw is related to the capacitor 10D 241k. burst into three pieces and blew the fuse. Can you interpret the values of this part for me? And that, is there any cause or effect relationship for this part's disintegration? I couldn't find a service manual anywhere. Regards Makew, thanks for the help!

[Acovea]

How come I cant post pics?  I need some help identifying a varistor that blew out on a 112 board, but the forum is blocking me from posting the images even tho I photoshopped them below the size limit.  Can someone activate me so I can post my photo?

[Rossi32s]

1 hour ago, Acovea said:

How come I cant post pics?  I need some help identifying a varistor that blew out on a 112 board, but the forum is blocking me from posting the images even tho I photoshopped them below the size limit.  Can someone activate me so I can post my photo?

Probably because you are a new member.  

 

CY2 = WD102K 400V

CY1 & CY5 = CD472M 250V

 

[Rossi32s]

On 4/23/2024 at 1:40 AM, that1crzywhtguy said:

Cool I'll get on that. Anybody make a full list of cap values? 

 

The sub came back to life after some time and is working fine currently. When it went out I was really pushing it to see what It could do. 

 

Is it recommended to replace the resistor too even if it's not currently damaged? I'd be tempted to raise the watt rating on it, but would that pose a risk to other components? 

 

Thanks for the advice! 

 

-Sterling

 

Raising the wattage will not change much. If the resistance and the voltage stay the same, then the same amount of heat will be generated by the resistor, whether it's a 5w resistor or a 50w resistor.  The best thing you can do is relocate the resistor from the capacitors to reduce the heat they are subjected to.  Moving the resistor and using thermal epoxy to secure it to the plate is the best option; this will transfer the heat to the plate, and half that plate is exposed to the outside.

I have been rebuilding these for years. I rebuild them all using a board mounted 820 ohm 5W resistor, and I have never had one come back with a cap issue. I also only use Rubicon caps rated for 2000 Hours @ 130C.

 

 

[Acovea]

4 hours ago, Rossi32s said:

Probably because you are a new member.  

 

CY2 = WD102K 400V

CY1 & CY5 = CD472M 250V

 

No its TV2 the black one with the looks like a heatshrink tail coming off the top. Near the 2 big caps on the lower left of the board.  Still cant upload my jpegs.......

 

Lower left of the power supply board not the amp board.  Theres 2 of them black next to the big power caps cant read the other one either or the thermal caulk or whatever it is has ruined it.

Edited September 16 by Acovea