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Posted (edited)

These components are black with like heatshrink tails coming off the top. TV2 in the lower left of the power board, but in this image the back panels are upside down so they would be in the upper right in this image next to those 2 big caps.

 

0a3c1cc8-2eed-4c8e-acfe-6f2c13d6d92d.jpg

Edited by Acovea
Cutting down on post size sorry didnt realize that was 2 images stacked at first
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Hi guys!

 

I found this thread. I have an R-112SW that is dead now. I found a problem with the zener diode ZD4. Can anyone tell me what the voltage for this zener could be?

Posted
On 9/26/2024 at 12:15 PM, Imre said:

Hi guys!

 

I found this thread. I have an R-112SW that is dead now. I found a problem with the zener diode ZD4. Can anyone tell me what the voltage for this zener could be?

29v

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted (edited)
On 9/28/2024 at 1:12 AM, Rossi32s said:

29v

Big thanks! Do you happen to know if ZD7 is the same? Currently, it is passing everything that is coming from the power supply (ca -55V).

Edited by Imre
  • 1 month later...
Posted (edited)

Hi guys,

 

I have a old SW115 that unfortunately the amp has died, does anyone here happen to have any experience in repairing them?

 

Initially we had a brown out & the main fuse blew, I tried another fuse & it blew strait away.

Then I took it into a repair shop & they identified the small transformer on the standby board was open circuit & were unable to get replacement parts for it. 

 

After I had a closer look I found the winding in the transformer was broken near the pin & there was a blown IC (TNY278)

I replaced the IC & re soldered the winding on the transformer & put it back together.

 

Now when I test it the fuse no longer blows but the amp will still not turn on & no sound.

 

Any pointers on what to test or replace next would be very helpful & I would appreciate any help I could get.

 

spacer.png

Edited by carter-d
Posted
On 29/01/2024 at 22:24, DerHouy said:

Je viens de réparer les tampons cassés "aussi bien que possible en tant que débutant" et le sous-marin fonctionne à nouveau. J'ai remplacé l'un des gros bouchons principaux (parce qu'il était cassé), et les 3 condensateurs montrés dans l'image. Parce que j'ai commuté un condensateur avant le 16v 330uf, je suppose que c'était le 16v 330uf, qui était cassé. Une question de plus, les lignes sombres sont les vraies connexions, non? Parce que je l'ai gratté un peu sur le cassé pour obtenir une connexion au cuivre en dessous.

Merci les gars jusqu'à présent, au moins ça fonctionne à nouveau. J'espère que j'ai tout fait correctement et que le pad cassé n'est pas mal connecté maintenant xD

16v 330uf 25v 22uf.jpg

25v 22uf.jpg

Hello, I am French (and do not speak English very well), I encounter the same problem as you on my SPL 120 (heartbeat noise), do you think that I should do as you change all these capacitors or just the 16v 330uf? Thank you for your valuable help

Posted
10 hours ago, laimarc said:

Hello, I am French (and do not speak English very well), I encounter the same problem as you on my SPL 120 (heartbeat noise), do you think that I should do as you change all these capacitors or just the 16v 330uf? Thank you for your valuable 

Replacing this 1uf @ 50v will get rid of the thumping sound.

 

The whole board should recapped and all glue removed or you'll end up with other issues soon.

thumper.png.0eb33666a8cda5f9513b913cda4951f6.png

Posted
15 hours ago, Rossi32s said:

Replacing this 1uf @ 50v will get rid of the thumping sound.

 

The whole board should recapped and all glue removed or you'll end up with other issues soon.

thumper.png.0eb33666a8cda5f9513b913cda4951f6.png

Hello, you are talking about the thumping noise, is this the same as the beating noise every 2 seconds ? 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Hello. I have a Klipsch R-115SW and I have a problem. It turns on but it’s in constant clap of speaker but in a constant and always hum.. like clack…. Stops 1-2 seconds and clack again.. stops 1-2 seconds and clack again. It’s always like this when I turn on the power. Do you know what could be? Thanks

Posted (edited)
On 1/23/2024 at 4:04 AM, Rossi32s said:

Change the one circled in red..  22uf 50v  

thumper.png

Hello. I had heart beat problem like this one and replaced that and heartbeat stops and the subwoofer becomes fully operational. But now I have a problem. If I’m watching a movie with my Klipsch r-115sw connected to my Denver sound sistem it works fine from 0 to 50/60 % off volume in the Denver avr. If I push my master volume on Denver to maximum it shutdowns the amp. And it does this always so it’s a consistency problem. When it shuts down the subwoofer I have to unplug the power off sub from the wall wait 30 seconds to a minute and it turns on again. And strange thing is that if I don’t push master volume of my Denver avr more than 50/60% the sub works infinitely. Don’t shut down even if I use it 5 /10 hours. Only if I raise master volume to almost maximum. There’s any piece on the Klipsch board that I can replace to fix this problem? Thanks. If you can help me I would appreciate. My r-115 board it’s like this I’m going to show on picture.

IMG_0324.jpeg

Edited by Heder silva
Posted

Did you also replace the 2 big caps in front of it ?  I was also getting the same sound, replaced the same cap you mentioned and now mine went complete dead. I had to take out the 2 big caps and put the same back in, in order to get to that remote small cap. 
 

Mine was dead for the past year. I brought it to life after replacing the burnt resistor and the surrounding 3 caps. The led light had started to come on with the weird clamping sound intermittently. Now it’s all dead again with no led. 

Posted

No. Only the one in red cirlcle. But the heart beating went away. The problem now it’s that the amplifier shut down if I raise volume more than 60%. If I stay under the 60% the subwoofer works fine and don’t shut down ever. This is a strange problem. Only when it needs more juice it’s when he shuts down. Anyone know what piece its defective that shuts down when the amp needs more power? Thanks…

Posted

Sorry, I didnt see your responses sooner. I replaced the 3 common ones near the burnt resistor - ones circled in red and the resistor I put in the back - with 1kOhm ceramic white. 

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