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Internals of the RF7 lll


STSOE

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On 12/3/2019 at 7:08 AM, MechEngVic said:

This.

That's why repositories of know-how and experience, like this here forum, are such a valuable resource. Speaker builders make as good a sounding speaker as they can within the confines of the budgets they are given. There is always a compromise. Then we, with the help of these forums and our experiences, can extract the few missing bits of performance out of those designs. But care must be taken to avoid thoughtless "Swap-tronics". 

You. My friend, you understand.

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On 12/2/2019 at 6:10 AM, Jeffrey D. Medwin said:

 

 

No doubt.

 

Most likely. the passive crossovers you used were typical, and thus FAR from idealized as to wiring and parts choices and implementation. 

 

IF ( a big word ) a passive crossover is well done, and you run great electronics, a Passive will be an improvement over an Active, because the Active calls for a whole other set of gain stages, in the crossover, to do that signal dividing.   That " always at least one other gain stage ", ( with passive parts inserted to get the roll offs ), gets 'ya.  

 

IMHO, IME,  the extra gain stage employed, be it tube or sold state, creates a lack of transparency, in a really superbly implemented audio system.  I am referring to a system  that is at the edges of state-of-the-art,  in the high-efficiency audio world.

 

KISS often rules.  As an example, I use a two way speaker, and absolutely NO crossover at all ...........on the 15 inch woofer.  It  is now directly amp - driven, ....runs full range. 

 

I almost never see a Passive crossover I really like, however.  So the conceptually-inferior Actives can sneak into use.   YMMV, fine, its all IMHO.

 

Jeff 

 

Edited by STSOE
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1 hour ago, Coytee said:

 

Are  you trying to tell me that my room isn't perfect??

:(

 

Was really talking about changes in the speaker but your room is probably not right, very few are. Mine is perfect, a perfect mess most of the time, unfolded clothes on the bench, grandkids playpen and toys, but it always sounds good to us.

 

 

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10 hours ago, dtel said:

Was really talking about changes in the speaker but your room is probably not right, very few are. Mine is perfect, a perfect mess most of the time, unfolded clothes on the bench, grandkids playpen and toys, but it always sounds good to us.

 

 

That's perfect - chaos.  It helps reduce standing waves and increase the diffusion.

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On 12/8/2019 at 1:28 AM, glens said:

With what result?

Not as much as with a pair of Rp's to be honest. These are pretty well braced. But i have pretty much no cabinet vibrations even with very high volumes. I was a bit chocked to see that the back at the top was just bare wood.

I got a bit more precission at the higher frequencies. And as mentioned. No vibrations to the touch anymore.

It was pretty late when i did it last night so i didn't do any critical listening at higher volumes.

It's still pretty early so i'll wait a couple of hours before i crank it up but my initial impressions is that the bass is a bit tighter too. Not by the extend that you would notice it with lesser electronics i think.

But it was noticeable at the high frequencies. Less ringing and a bit more precission.

But hell a 50 dollar upgrade to minimize vibrations is well worth it in my book.

I only took them apart to see the crossover, but it seemed like a good idea to stiffen them up a bit and get rid of some of the noise inside the cabinet when i was at it.

Edited by STSOE
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31 minutes ago, MechEngVic said:

I totally overlooked that first link, thanks.

No worries.

It look somewhat decent except for that big ugly spool in the bottom. It is an iron core. I don't like that. 

 

And thanks for throwing up the image by the way. I couldn't figure out how to do that. 😋

Edited by STSOE
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"Iron" core ain't so bad.  Saves a bunch on DCR, relatively.  The only real problem is if you throw enough current at the speakers to saturate it, but unless you're wearing earplugs (as you should at that volume) that shouldn't be a problem.

 

As for diff against v2 perhaps a value or two may be off here or there, otherwise I'd surmise they're much the same quality-wise.  In that respect I'd guess they're entirely sufficient for >90% of users.

 

I'd prefer point-to-point wiring vs. circuit board topology.  I'd be surprised if my Forte3s are different than yours in that respect, but I'm not intending to "improve" on them until/unless I go active/DSP.  Don't hold your breath...

 

Perhaps mine would benefit from panel damping, though that would follow long after improving the room.  Even that (it's a lousy situation) is not even on my radar.  I enjoy them very much as-are.

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16 minutes ago, STSOE said:

No worries.

It look somewhat decent except for that big ugly spool in the bottom. It is an iron core. I don't like that. 

 

And thanks for throwing up the image by the way. I couldn't figure out how to do that. 😋

It looks pretty good compared to other high end Klipsch crossovers, at least it has air cores for the small coils, and no 0.05 cent caps.

 

Now we just gotta find the coil values. Double check my sketch for mistakes.

 

1593711719_2019-12-0900_46_14.thumb.jpg.a3919d1b53995c49e8a30e318fd2fb8f.jpg

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3 minutes ago, STSOE said:

My mistake. I didn't post the picture with the coil values. They are written inside of each of the small cores.

Okay, i just checked and i didn't only forget to post it. I forgot to take it too. God damn it.😋 Well i guess i'll have to take out the bottom woofer again on one of them to take one more before i start ordering stuff.

They didn't write any value on the big one though. Which is hella annoying. Any idea how i find out the value of that one?

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