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AHall

Shallow Cornwall

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I’d be interested in building new Cornwall boxes that are full height and width, but reducing the depth to around 10.5”. So basically 5” less depth than factory. Looks like I’ll be reducing the volume around 33%. Is this something I should model to come up with a port length or blindly hack off the extra depth? I do not require them to dig deep in my application. I’d be leaning toward using a 15c woofer. 
 

For those of you that are wondering why. These are my side surround channels. They are inset into the walls 3.5” already. I’m interested in having them protrude less into the room freeing up walking space. Also getting the horn/woofer that much further from my ear. I am limited by my 16’ room width. Also I’d like to have a new motorboard I can mount my k510s flush in. And move the woofer higher to be closer to the HF horn. This could be advantageous in setting up phase alignment. 

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Why not try a Chorus I?

If I'm not mistaken, sans riser they should be about same height but less depth

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 

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Actually never mind. Looks like it's not as thin as I thought

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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9 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

Why not try a Chorus I?

If I'm not mistaken, sans riser they should be about same height but less depth

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

 

 

 

 


 

Im kinda stuck with the height and width at this point. 
 

6N3pedG.jpg

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1 hour ago, AHall said:


 

Im kinda stuck with the height and width at this point. 
 

6N3pedG.jpg

Looks fine to me. 😎All jokes aside, is there available volume inside that opening, outside of where the speaker is occupying ?

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Interesting idea.

 

Something like a Boston Acoustics A200...?

 

I wonder how the Kappa 15C would perform in a sealed cabinet/acoustic suspension/infinite baffle? The short Xmax would suit it.

 

Punchy for sure.

 

F2CD95BE-2ABD-47E1-B567-69B5BC5C44E4.jpeg

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3 hours ago, No.4 said:

Looks fine to me. 😎All jokes aside, is there available volume inside that opening, outside of where the speaker is occupying ?


1b1L5GC.jpg

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Score the veneer with a sraightedge, cut the cabinet just proud of that, fasten new cleats inside, maybe hog out the shelf with a jigsaw if necessary, and screw the back back on.  Why are you asking here?

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8 hours ago, glens said:

Score the veneer with a sraightedge, cut the cabinet just proud of that, fasten new cleats inside, maybe hog out the shelf with a jigsaw if necessary, and screw the back back on.  Why are you asking here?


because making such a modification would be redesigning the entire speaker. 

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Looking at your pictures, I wonder if you can compromise on the position of the Cornwall so that a few inches sit out front and a few inches extend out the backside of the wall?

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You could move the tweeter and squawker to a different box and make up some of the lost volume that way.

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9 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

Wait, how far back do the squawker magnets go?

 K510 with a radian 950 is a little under 9”

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1 hour ago, AHall said:

because making such a modification would be redesigning the entire speaker. 

 

But you're already halfway there!  No way you could ever sell those as Cornwalls now, and I'm guessing you have no intent to ever sell them anyway.  I don't see how you'd mess up anything much above 100 Hz no matter what you do.

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Run the cabinet through the table saw 1" more in depth than the deepest component, remove the port and seal it up. Run a flange of 3/4" plywood ( depth determined by panel thickness) to install the back panel, let glue dry and drill a small hole through existing mounting bolt holes into new flange and reinstall the old back panel.

 

You will lose some lower bass response but it will get you to where you want to go, if you run a subwoofer there will be minimal if no losses.

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It has to be modelled and is unlikely to work unless you are willing to accept a sealed box with a high f3 and a 6 dB/oct roll-off below that. 

 

PE has woofer modelling software.  BassBox is fairly easy to use.

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3 hours ago, jason str said:

if you run a subwoofer there will be minimal if no losses.

 

These are side/rear channels and he's got that huge (to put it mildly) horn subwoofer between his Jubes.

 

Everything else you said is pretty much what I said, except I wouldn't use a table saw (better results clamping a straightedge for my trusty Super Sawcat), and I wouldn't use plywood for the cleats to screw the back onto.  I'd go with a solid wood member instead.

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18 minutes ago, glens said:

 

These are side/rear channels and he's got that huge (to put it mildly) horn subwoofer between his Jubes.

 

Everything else you said is pretty much what I said, except I wouldn't use a table saw (better results clamping a straightedge for my trusty Super Sawcat), and I wouldn't use plywood for the cleats to screw the back onto.  I'd go with a solid wood member instead.

 

Solid wood tends to crack with the grain but people are free to use what they want.

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