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Shallow Cornwall


AHall

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35 minutes ago, Maximus89 said:

Remember the Fifteens that never came out?  

Yep.  They really don't need to be in the powered speaker business.  It seems to hurt their reputation with all the problems they seem to have.  Passive speaker failure rate is probably microscopic. 

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Yep.  They really don't need to be in the powered speaker business.  It seems to hurt their reputation with all the problems they seem to have.  Passive speaker failure rate is probably microscopic. 
Quite a damn good looking speaker though. I want to veneer my Khorn fronts in that way with the darker grain running up the middle of the LF up to the top hat. What is that veneer anyway? Walnut on the sides for sure but the middle grain? Ziricote?

Sent from my SM-G965U using Tapatalk

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On 12/18/2019 at 3:42 PM, glens said:

 and I wouldn't use plywood for the cleats to screw the back onto.  I'd go with a solid wood member instead.

 

On 12/18/2019 at 4:02 PM, jason str said:

Solid wood tends to crack with the grain but people are free to use what they want.

 

Solid wood never has a problem when I pre-drill the screw hole, with the correct size pilot drill bit.

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Pre-drilling is always best practice, but I had some Doug. Fir a few years back that was so tight-grained I could drive a 3" screw (unpiloted) into the end of a 2x2 3" long and couldn't get it to split.

 

I confess in all my woodworking I've never used Baltic Birch plywood, but it's still plywood and using it for cleats, fasteners are going to be in line with the plies on one of the sides.  Even drilling pilots that's a recipe for disaster.

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On 12/18/2019 at 12:02 AM, AHall said:


1b1L5GC.jpg

 

 

What if you cut through the wall....build a box on the backside (that can be used as a table or something) and let this assembly simply house the full speaker?

 

Yeah, you'd have some intrusions into the other room.....  but it might be small enough that it's not a big deal.  Besides, it gives your wife (or you if you're so inclined) a place to put knick-knacks....

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1 hour ago, glens said:

Pre-drilling is always best practice, but I had some Doug. Fir a few years back that was so tight-grained I could drive a 3" screw (unpiloted) into the end of a 2x2 3" long and couldn't get it to split.

 

I confess in all my woodworking I've never used Baltic Birch plywood, but it's still plywood and using it for cleats, fasteners are going to be in line with the plies on one of the sides.  Even drilling pilots that's a recipe for disaster.

 

Klipsch used plywood on their flanges for years and years, so have i with no issues.

 

Like you said it depends on the grain and wood, why take the risk.

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4 hours ago, AHall said:


If you ever have time to model it up I’d be interested in what you come up with. I’m not savvy enough with those programs. 

OK, here you go. Easy! Turns out that 15C driver is flatter in the shallow box (minus 5.5") with same Cornwall ports. You only give up 10 Hz. on the bottom end, so no big deal there. Go forth and conquer!

 

 

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1 hour ago, ClaudeJ1 said:

OK, here you go. Easy! Turns out that 15C driver is flatter in the shallow box (minus 5.5") with same Cornwall ports. You only give up 10 Hz. on the bottom end, so no big deal there. Go forth and conquer!

 

FullCornwallvsShallow15C.jpg


That makes me wanna get started ahead of schedule. 

 

The port would be changed some I think. The length from the inside back of the cab to the beginning of the port is 4”. Length of port at 10”. So would we be shortening the port a bit as well? 

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