Dave A Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 I am looking for specs on these and also I understand there is a way to defeat the THX crippling of the output on the crossover. I have looked tonight and there is very little out there so hoping someone can help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted December 20, 2019 Share Posted December 20, 2019 @Dave A Dave, I have a pic at home that shows what needs to be done for that. I believe it is a single jump you can solder on the crossover board. I'm pretty sure that Bob Crites can tell you as well, as I think he posted it originally. Bruce Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted December 20, 2019 Author Share Posted December 20, 2019 4 hours ago, Marvel said: @Dave A Dave, I have a pic at home that shows what needs to be done for that. I believe it is a single jump you can solder on the crossover board. I'm pretty sure that Bob Crites can tell you as well, as I think he posted it originally. Bruce Thanks Bruce I did get a picture of what to do on the 200. Now I need to get the same info for the KPT-100 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jvs1670 Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 That info was here somewhere at one time...I'd like to know too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted December 21, 2019 Author Share Posted December 21, 2019 I did find the KPT-100 post. I have ten or so to do this mod to if it works well for one pair of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 Dave, the picture is gone in that thread for some reason but I jumpered mine on the bottom of the PCB. It was much easier that way for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 21, 2019 Share Posted December 21, 2019 20 hours ago, Marvel said: @Dave A Dave, I have a pic at home that shows what needs to be done for that. I believe it is a single jump you can solder on the crossover board. I'm pretty sure that Bob Crites can tell you as well, as I think he posted it originally. Bruce Probably the picture I took of mine. I can't seem to find it now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JohnA Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 I would not use Bob Crites mod. They'll sound better stock. The x-curve is a room phenomenon. https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/validity-of-x-curve-for-cinema-sound.204/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
glens Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 10 hours ago, JohnA said: https://www.audiosciencereview.com/forum/index.php?threads/validity-of-x-curve-for-cinema-sound.204/ there's your link Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted December 22, 2019 Author Share Posted December 22, 2019 " Summary So here we are. No matter which way we look at it, the X-curve does not pass the test of scrutiny. It would be wonderful if sound reproduced in a room followed such a simplified behavior. But it just doesn’t. There is much work to tweak the measured time interval and such, hoping to get that to correlate with real situations. But all of this I am afraid is misguided. The right knowledge of psychoacoustics and sound reproduction in the room needs to be used to determine the guidelines. Not something we cook up on the back of the envelop. Let’s hope that the standardization leads us to proper scientific solution. Until then, it is my sincere hope that people calibrating sound in theaters, do so using their ears and not compliance with X-curve. " I do not have capacitors on hand for a crossover refresh so what this will do is YTBD. I did however listen to a set of KPT-100's for a few hours and my conclusion was it was muffled sounding. I have heard the same thing with bad caps before also. However I decided to try the Crites mod since it is really easy to undo and it did make a difference and stopped most of the muffling sound. I should have caps in for a refresh soon and will also do that and see. My preference at this time is, for speakers I think are worthwhile to tinker with, to learn how to use REW or True RTA and set things up for my particular environment and most certainly not use one adapted for some movie theater standard. I find it interesting that the best Klipsch cinema gear have all gone to DSP's which indicates to me the x-curve is not something to strive for. I know other things are being done there also but there does not seem to be any mention of x-curves relative to DSP settings. Thanks for the link it was interesting. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted December 22, 2019 Author Share Posted December 22, 2019 On 12/21/2019 at 9:07 AM, CECAA850 said: Dave, the picture is gone in that thread for some reason but I jumpered mine on the bottom of the PCB. It was much easier that way for me. I did the same thing. It did make a difference to me and what was your opinion of the mod? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 I did the mod and changed to titanium tweeter diaphragms all at the same time. It turned them into some awesome little speakers. They punched way over their weight. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave A Posted December 22, 2019 Author Share Posted December 22, 2019 No recap? All those old mylars and electrolyitcs will have high ESR at the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CECAA850 Posted December 22, 2019 Share Posted December 22, 2019 16 minutes ago, Dave A said: No recap? All those old mylars and electrolyitcs will have high ESR at the least. At the time no. Still sounded damn good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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