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AGC Fuse Information


MarkKrochuck

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Hey everyone, I just got an amazing deal on a pair of Klipsch CP-1 Pro (Cornwall) speakers. During testing I blew a 1-1/2amp and 3amp fuse. The fellow I bought them off of happened to have spares, but I am wondering where I can buy replacements if I need them. The guy I bought from said they were 120volt fast blow fuses and he said to make sure I don’t get 12volt ones. When I try to find 1.5amp and 3amp AGC fuses the are all 250volt.

 

Can someone direct me to where I can buy these things? Should they be 250v not 120v?

 

I really don’t think the drivers were over stressed, could the values be changed to 2amp and 4amp?

 

Thank you,

18943BA0-9AE4-4CF4-825B-5D76F8B3BFDB.jpeg

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Think they are 250 volt, but check specs. One speaker blew or both? If just one, check the fuses in the good one and see what they are. If the same, would be leery of just putting in the same just to blow fuses again.

Probably not but check the speaker wiri.ng at both ends, speaker and power source. Using coax cable make sure copper strand or foil not touching center conductor, both ends. Curious about the both blowing though.

Double check and proceed with caution...If both blew check above steps but maybe wrong fuses. 

BTW, what is that wire doing dangling over to the other input?

Remove it first...and read the small print on the pic for info on the fuses...

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Continued, did you listen to the speakers before you bought?

If so, did it blow a fuse?

Did he give you the speaker cables to speakers?

Are you using regular speaker

Wire to hook them up and not the correct for the inputs shown?

Just questions, not an inquisition.

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20 minutes ago, billybob said:

Continued, did you listen to the speakers before you bought?

If so, did it blow a fuse?

Did he give you the speaker cables to speakers?

Are you using regular speaker

Wire to hook them up and not the correct for the inputs shown?

Just questions, not an inquisition.


I believe the wire you speak of is just a cobweb. The speakers were listened to for about 6-7 songs. I brought my Carver PM2.0t and really cranked it. One fuse blew on one speaker cutting out a woofer and another fuse went on another speaker cutting out the tweet and mid. They were playing ridiculously loud so I suppose the fuses did as they should to protect the drivers. 
 

I intend on bracing up the cabinets, fixing the binding posts and painting the exterior to freshen these up. The grills are in good condition, just need a heavy lint rolling to remove some debris/dirt and cat hair.

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I would keep the original fuse sizes. 

 

Power = I*I*R, where I is current in amps and R is impedance. 

 

Fuses pop at 2x their rating during long term overload. 

 

So, I = sqrt(100 watts/8 ohms), or 3.54 amps. 

 

If that woofer is rated at 100 watts long term, a 3A fuse is a little oversized.  A 3A fuse will run all day at 3A and never blow. 

 

See the time/current chart in this link:

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electronic-components/resources/data-sheet/eaton-agc-fast-acting-glass-tube-fuses-data-sheet.pdf

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5 hours ago, nitrofan said:

Most fuses say 250 volt on them if you look, even the ones we sell for automotive

Thanks for the info, as Glen said above I guess “amps is amps”.

 

I have to go off what you guys tell me because I honestly do not know and could not find 120volt fuses in that style and amperage.

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14 minutes ago, JohnA said:

I would keep the original fuse sizes. 

 

Power = I*I*R, where I is current in amps and R is impedance. 

 

Fuses pop at 2x their rating during long term overload. 

 

So, I = sqrt(100 watts/8 ohms), or 3.54 amps. 

 

If that woofer is rated at 100 watts long term, a 3A fuse is a little oversized.  A 3A fuse will run all day at 3A and never blow. 

 

See the time/current chart in this link:

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electronic-components/resources/data-sheet/eaton-agc-fast-acting-glass-tube-fuses-data-sheet.pdf

The K-44 woofer is rated at 200w rms, the pro version differs from a normal Lascala, Khorn, Cornwall woofer.

C3AAF607-E746-49C1-9D79-A66668FED6B1.jpeg

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16 minutes ago, JohnA said:

I would keep the original fuse sizes. 

 

Power = I*I*R, where I is current in amps and R is impedance. 

 

Fuses pop at 2x their rating during long term overload. 

 

So, I = sqrt(100 watts/8 ohms), or 3.54 amps. 

 

If that woofer is rated at 100 watts long term, a 3A fuse is a little oversized.  A 3A fuse will run all day at 3A and never blow. 

 

See the time/current chart in this link:

https://www.eaton.com/content/dam/eaton/products/electronic-components/resources/data-sheet/eaton-agc-fast-acting-glass-tube-fuses-data-sheet.pdf

Sorry, I will likely keep the fuse sizes per your advice but thought I would ask.

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LOL!  I'm sure you can do the math between 100 watts and 200 watts.  I wouldn't think you'd want to use your voice coils for fuses. 

 

I also reversed the time for a fuse to blow.  A 3A fuse pops at 4.2A in 100 seconds and allows 6A for 1/2 second and will pass 12A for .1 seconds, about the duration of a kick drum.  That's 1150 watts.  Fuses are not really that great for speaker protection. 

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On 1/13/2020 at 3:10 PM, MarkKrochuck said:

Thanks for the info, as Glen said above I guess “amps is amps”.

 

I have to go off what you guys tell me because I honestly do not know and could not find 120volt fuses in that style and amperage.

 

The voltage rating of fuses is merely the ability to contain (insulate) the voltage.  Naturally, it pertains also to the fuse holders in that respect.

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17 hours ago, JohnA said:

LOL!  I'm sure you can do the math between 100 watts and 200 watts.  I wouldn't think you'd want to use your voice coils for fuses. 

 

I also reversed the time for a fuse to blow.  A 3A fuse pops at 4.2A in 100 seconds and allows 6A for 1/2 second and will pass 12A for .1 seconds, about the duration of a kick drum.  That's 1150 watts.  Fuses are not really that great for speaker protection. 

Good to know, and no I want to make sure these speakers last beyond my time if possible.

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