OO1 Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 1, 2020 Share Posted February 1, 2020 - 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted February 1, 2020 Author Share Posted February 1, 2020 We've had a really wet January here, so I also spent the afternoon shoveling wet/muddy pig crap out of pens and moving it to my compost piles. You guys want those pictures too? 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
codewritinfool Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 My thinking was that the wiring from the amp will be basically flat and tidy to the ground. With 1.5" of plywood supporting the bottom I didn't figure it would matter much?I chose the top for the cut because my crossover is in the top section. Made for a shorter LF cable. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted February 2, 2020 Share Posted February 2, 2020 6 hours ago, codewritinfool said: I chose the top for the cut because my crossover is in the top section. Made for a shorter LF cable. You'll never hear a woman say this, but.......................The shorter, the better. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted February 3, 2020 Author Share Posted February 3, 2020 No pictures, but I've got the front trim fixed from removing the top hat. I'm using one of the gorilla glue construction adhesives I saw mentioned around here and that seems to work well. Next will be some work around drilling holes for the speakon connectors and knocking down the factory paint with some sandpaper for better glue adhesion of the new panels. with this gorilla glue adhesive, is it necessary to nail/screw the panels? I was hoping to reduce the amount of hole patching that might show up in the finish - finish nails around the edges would be fine, but would like to minimize discolored spots once stain is applied. I plan to just slather on the glue and then use a combination of ratchet straps and weights to ensure proper adhesion... slow and low, one panel at a time to force myself not to rush through and minimize mistakes. all of the panels are oversized, so I'll glue and trim with the router each time. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 1 hour ago, Thaddeus Smith said: Next will be some work around drilling holes for the speakon connectors and knocking down the factory paint with some sandpaper for better glue adhesion of the new panels. with this gorilla glue adhesive, is it necessary to nail/screw the panels? I was hoping to reduce the amount of hole patching that might show up in the finish - finish nails around the edges would be fine, but would like to minimize discolored spots once stain is applied. Just want to make sure that you're using a form of their wood glue, not the original Gorilla Glue that expands a ton. Personally, I use various Titebond products although I'm sure that you're fine as long as the glue is for your intended use. I wouldn't use anything that expands, you're just looking to bond. If you apply the glue properly and uniformly and have the ability to securely clam and or weight the new pieces down to the existing cabinet as to bond 100% surface to surface, you shouldn't need to put any fasteners in at all. Really important to use something that is water cleanup and to wipe down the ooze immediately and then after you've applied pressure. You only need enough glue spread with a very fine notched trowel to insure total contact panel to panel, more than enough is just going to make it more difficult. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.4 Posted February 3, 2020 Share Posted February 3, 2020 I am really not a fan of gorilla glue. I used it on a project that required a waterproof adhesive. It turned into a mess quick. Titebond makes excellent products. If you really need the bond to be strong and the surface is uneven I would recommend a polyurethane adhesive. I build my table tuba with it, much easier to work with. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 This is what I picked up.. It has a consistency of that white tacky glue that you can buy from craft stores. Doesn't appear to expand like the original "just add water" gorilla glue. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 32 minutes ago, Thaddeus Smith said: This is what I picked up.. It has a consistency of that white tacky glue that you can buy from craft stores. Doesn't appear to expand like the original "just add water" gorilla glue. Be very, very, very careful with that stuff.....I know! DO NOT get that stuff on your hands or any exposed skin and allow it to dry. Many builds ago, I think the SPUD subs, I got that stuff all over my hands and I did not read the product warnings. I wrongly assumed it would easily come off later like wood glue. I worked with it all day and allowed it to dry on my skin. I spent about a week waiting for that stuff, which turned dark and very rough, to come off....it was a horrible experience and I will not use that stuff. My experience was with the expanding Gorilla Glue.... Also, If you get any on a surface you later wish to paint, you will always 'see' where the glue is. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 Well shoot. What's the consensus then? Titebond? Liquid Nails? Good ol fashioned elmer's wood glue? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 7 minutes ago, Thaddeus Smith said: Well shoot. What's the consensus then? Titebond? Liquid Nails? Good ol fashioned elmer's wood glue? If you are gluing raw lumber, in my experience, all you need is something like Titebond II Premium wood glue. I have tried to break apart things I simply glued and brad nailed together. The lumber splinters and breaks, but the joint stays. I know many of us, including myself, tend to over engineer things. You can use what you already got, just be very careful. Not a big deal. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 Thanks for the info guys. I only used the glue on this one piece, which will largely be covered. I fortunately wore gloves, and these two tubes can be used on other projects around the farm so they won't go to waste. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 1 minute ago, Randyh said: Thad , place a piece of wood or 2 across the 2 side walls as braces before you ratchet strap the panels on ,- just so the side panels stay perfectly straight , when the pressure builds up and the 2 panels are mated - Please elaborate.. I'm trying to visualize what you're suggesting, but not quite understanding which directional forces I'm trying to combat. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 - 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
joessportster Posted February 4, 2020 Share Posted February 4, 2020 On 2/1/2020 at 2:09 PM, Thaddeus Smith said: Cut the access holes for my new speakon connections at the bottom. Also pivoted back to my original plan of external plywood. It's home depot grade (5 ply) and had them just cut in 26x26" squares that I'll finish out with the router. Then I'll stain and oil with fresh paint on the rear, front edges, and mouth. Used some of the excess to cut little strips for the Front top trim piece I removed earlier. I just don't like the look of the internal mouth braces and I really wanted to try and dress up the bass bins a bit for better WAF appeal since I'll have these winged monstrosities sitting on top. why not buy some 1 X ? and trim the edges of the Cab on all 4 sides then fill in with ply ? that should allow for more cuts / pieces per sheet and when you stain you could stain all 1 color or do trim in X and Panels in Y Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted February 4, 2020 Author Share Posted February 4, 2020 1 minute ago, joessportster said: why not buy some 1 X ? and trim the edges of the Cab on all 4 sides then fill in with ply ? that should allow for more cuts / pieces per sheet and when you stain you could stain all 1 color or do trim in X and Panels in Y too late. I've already got 8 panels which are 26"x26" square, which I will mount and then flush trim with the router. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted February 9, 2020 Author Share Posted February 9, 2020 Drilled holes for the speakon connectors today and will get those wired up and ready for installation after paint. Knocked down the paint and grain in the horn mouth and back panels as well. Once I get that mess cleaned up I'll start gluing panels. Then more sanding prep for staining. Then once staining and oiling is done I'll tape off and paint edges and mouth/panel. I've shown pictures of the 7" wings to my wife and she was underwhelmed. So while visiting @Rudy81, he let me bring home the 12" prototype to see how it looks. Even without the extra 1.5" of panel width she likes the looks of this total package and I'm incline to agree. So I think we have our path forward. I think I'll go with all plywood and prep/stain it to match the cabinets. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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