billybob Posted February 28, 2020 Share Posted February 28, 2020 20 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said: Yes and no. I'm Increasing Gain with the first and quietest device. Pro Gear uses XLR connectors and the signal levels are much higher than stuff for home. To we need to use that higher voltage to our advantage up to 8 volts. The higher the nominal operating voltage from the source, the higher the signal to noise ratio. This was the operating principle used in Dolby Noise Reduction for Cassette Tapes. But it was limited to the high frequencies...........boost the treble in recording and cut in the playback electronics. This is a full band adaptation of the same principle. Let the signal ride up above all the noise, then the Passive (usually 20 Kohms) Potentiometer knocks it back down to a level that is more palatable by the Power Amplifier while feeding an inherently lower noise floor, since the whole thing gets lowered with lowering the too high voltage in the signal. Plus you get to use all the high bits in the Yamaha to full advantage. So, pro commercial applications typically operating at a higher voltage creating a less than silent noise level or floor, from the S/N level, was reduced by the Dolby N/R factor or intro. This basically enables the HF to have it's way to a much greater extent, without the unwanted gain contributing to noise. This Dolby N/R being a higher frequency filter. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted February 28, 2020 Share Posted February 28, 2020 13 hours ago, billybob said: So, pro commercial applications typically operating at a higher voltage creating a less than silent noise level or floor, from the S/N level, was reduced by the Dolby N/R factor or intro. This basically enables the HF to have it's way to a much greater extent, without the unwanted gain contributing to noise. This Dolby N/R being a higher frequency filter. It's basically a Compander System in reverse. But full band, not just the highs. Like a RIAA phone curve, but flat amplitude, full band. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
billybob Posted February 28, 2020 Share Posted February 28, 2020 13 hours ago, ClaudeJ1 said: It's basically a Compander System in reverse. But full band, not just the highs. Like a RIAA phone curve, but flat amplitude, full band. Thanks! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 I had my trim levels and volume on my AVR all the way up, while running an 1000 hz test tone and 60 hz test tone, turned up the input gain on the dsp until the clipping lights came and found a spot that accommodates both frequencies without clipping. Did the same with the output gain on the dsp, then after calculating my voltages adjusted the amp gain to that output voltage. This last couple steps are wishy washy, from there, I set the mic approximately 1 meter from each speaker and adjusted the output gain by lowering them until both hf/lf equaled 85 db. Then after each was set, I moved the mic back to the listening position and then adjusted the volume level of -25 as this is where the AVR automatically starts on first turn on, lowered each trim level of each channel to 75 db. Doing this my gains on my amp are around 2/3rds up, only if i have full volume cranked and my head in the horn, is when i hear any of the shhhhh you are referring to. Auto on, no music nothing, typically around 75db, turn it up to those crazy 88 db levels Claude references and things are sounding pretty dam good. Not sure how accurate this all is, but from what I understand this would be optimal for no clipping, no audible distortion with the most amount of headroom while not leaving any dynamics off the table. YMMV (yes I just stole a line from Chris)Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted March 1, 2020 Share Posted March 1, 2020 Also, nice looking project and glad the wife approves.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 It's wing day! They'll be going right into production while I make a final decision on finish using the prototype wing assembly I brought home a few weeks ago. Big big thanks to Rudy for building these for me. I'm glad I'm local! 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 5, 2020 Share Posted March 5, 2020 Fantastic! Looks like it's time for a bigger truck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted March 5, 2020 Author Share Posted March 5, 2020 Immediate depth of sound stage, fuller midrange, tighter directivity. The first travk I played via spotify and I had weird static in the lady channel. Fuuuuuuuuuuuu... Rebooted the Nvidia shield and everything sounds fine so I guess I had a weird network issue. Added wire length to the top drivers and just need to screw down the barrier strips. Do be advised that there's variance in the driver's plastic housing. Half my drivers fit with some slight force and the other half went in a bit easier. I may be leaving these natural finish if I can't get them out.. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pete H Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 I think that you have a great opportunity to finish the wings with some sort of extreme contrast to the black BB's. I'm thinking some cool 1 of a kind epoxy finish. Your original plan, if I'm not mistaken, was to have a combination of stain and black, but with the BB's all black, the opportunity for cool wings is unlimited. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Looking good sir. As I have mentioned, the dimensions of the magnet structures are not uniform and slightly different. If you it is a little snug, just pull the wings slightly apart and slide the driver in. GENTLY. Do not drop the driver or you may damage the diaphragm.....I'm still waiting for a replacement on the one I damaged. If a side is too snug, one of those mouse sanders will make quick work of adding a little more room. Keep us posted on your experience. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 2 minutes ago, Rudy81 said: Looking good sir Morgan was swooning over how they looked the moment I brought them inside and noticed the change in sound immediately. "Less tinny" in the HF and I haven't changed anything in the xover or amp settings yet. 5 minutes ago, Pete H said: I think that you have a great opportunity to finish the wings with some sort of extreme contrast to the black BB's. I'm thinking some cool 1 of a kind epoxy finish. Your original plan, if I'm not mistaken, was to have a combination of stain and black, but with the BB's all black, the opportunity for cool wings is unlimited. So I'm kinda toying with a sunburst yellow or hot red or something. I'm going to do some sampling on the prototype build made from the same plywood. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Depending on what you use to finish the wings, you will likely find that after the first coat you will need to re-sand them just slightly. The plywood will tend to absorb the product and the grain will 'raise' giving you a fuzzy texture. Once you sand after the first coat, the problem will not emerge again....that is just the nature of the beast. If you are going to use stain, there is a product that you should use before staining to promote a nicer and more even grain. It is generally called "Pre-stain wood conditioner" and works very well. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 man i am stoked. this is exactly what I was hoping to acheive, both aesthetically and sonically. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marvel Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Those look terrific, Michael! Really, that is a WOW! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 I forgot to mention. Once you get them all finished, add some tape to seal and smooth the seam between the driver and the wing edge. I used simple electrical tape since my wings are black. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 10 minutes ago, Rudy81 said: I forgot to mention. Once you get them all finished, add some tape to seal and smooth the seam between the driver and the wing edge. I used simple electrical tape since my wings are black. Any determination on how crucial that is? Did it show up on measurements? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Thaddeus Smith Posted March 6, 2020 Author Share Posted March 6, 2020 27 minutes ago, Marvel said: Those look terrific, Michael! Really, that is a WOW! They've come out exactly as I had hoped/envisioned. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.4 Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 Very cool! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rudy81 Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 4 hours ago, Thaddeus Smith said: Any determination on how crucial that is? Did it show up on measurements? I honestly did not notice any measurement difference, but Chris indicated this would be of benefit. And I tend to follow Chris' advice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris A Posted March 6, 2020 Share Posted March 6, 2020 You'll see the difference in off-axis measurements--there'll be a drop out at about 1.5 kHz where the AMT-1 plastic body ends (1/4 axial wavelength). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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