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Tony T

DYNAMAT ... Is it truly worth the price?

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I've never had the opportunity to, thus have not dicked with that, but have to believe if the horn is physically active like that there most certainly will be coloration imparted.  As well, I'd surmise it to be a negative effect, but that's got to be dependent upon the horn/driver system as a whole.  Can't imagine it would ever be desirable for faithful audio.

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Has anybody tried this yet?

 

https://www.maperformance.com/products/plasti-dip-matte-black-rubber-coating-11203?variant=7525559747&msclkid=079ef8155bc61b6ca9b6a63c0dcdcb84

 

This seems to be one of the best ways of damping a metal horn lens from its outside....just spray its outside down with solvent grade ether (Birchwood-Casey's "gun scrubber"...can be found in Wally World gun cleaning section) to clean its outside surface and remove anything which may keep this from sticking....then after that dries, use this stuff....too easy!

 

You're welcome!😉

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8 hours ago, HDBRbuilder said:

Has anybody tried this yet?

 

https://www.maperformance.com/products/plasti-dip-matte-black-rubber-coating-11203?variant=7525559747&msclkid=079ef8155bc61b6ca9b6a63c0dcdcb84

 

This seems to be one of the best ways of damping a metal horn lens from its outside....just spray its outside down with solvent grade ether (Birchwood-Casey's "gun scrubber"...can be found in Wally World gun cleaning section) to clean its outside surface and remove anything which may keep this from sticking....then after that dries, use this stuff....too easy!

 

You're welcome!😉

 

that plasti dip stuff has been around for a long time & is popular for automotive applications like coating wheels or body panels or a whole car.  however, it is very thin & likely wont dampen vibrations from horns etc very well.  would take 5 or 10 cans to equal the thickness or damping of dynamat or rope caulk etc.  much cheaper & easier with better results to use a dynamat type material or the roof & window stuff at home depot or lowes.  

 

i also agree its not a waste of time to use a vibration dampening material... the factory didn't use it or many other more expensive items like better capacitors for one reason, cost.  the plastic horns on my k-horns would ring if you tapped them lightly with your hand although not as bad as the metal ones.  i also have chorus 2 & forte 2  & if you knock or slap the top or sides of the cabinet with your hand they ring like crazy!  i plan to use some dampening material on the backs of the horns, & woofer & passive baskets, possible something on the inner cabinets as well. 

 

some type of dampening wont hurt anything & if you use the dynamat or rope caulk it will come right off if you dont like it.  

 

 

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On 1/20/2020 at 6:13 PM, PrestonTom said:

What is it that you are expecting this material to do?

IOW, what is the problem you are trying to fix?

 

 

Dynamat deficiency syndrome. 😂

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4 hours ago, EpicKlipschFan said:

 

that plasti dip stuff has been around for a long time & is popular for automotive applications like coating wheels or body panels or a whole car.  however, it is very thin & likely wont dampen vibrations from horns etc very well.  would take 5 or 10 cans to equal the thickness or damping of dynamat or rope caulk etc.  much cheaper & easier with better results to use a dynamat type material or the roof & window stuff at home depot or lowes.  

 

i also agree its not a waste of time to use a vibration dampening material... the factory didn't use it or many other more expensive items like better capacitors for one reason, cost.  the plastic horns on my k-horns would ring if you tapped them lightly with your hand although not as bad as the metal ones.  i also have chorus 2 & forte 2  & if you knock or slap the top or sides of the cabinet with your hand they ring like crazy!  i plan to use some dampening material on the backs of the horns, & woofer & passive baskets, possible something on the inner cabinets as well. 

 

some type of dampening wont hurt anything & if you use the dynamat or rope caulk it will come right off if you dont like it.  

 

 

You can get plasti-dip in gallon-sized or smaller cans, too...which is what I would recommend, and just take a paint brush and apply it....that way you get a thicker coating for the outside of the horn lens...with the added advantage that yu can ALSO apply a thin even coat to the face of the mounting flange of the horn lense in order to achieve a better seal to the motor-board when re-attaching it.  As for the thickness of the coating, it doesn't NEED to be very thick, just enough to cover the surface completely in a relatively even coating.  After all, you are JUST needing to damp any "ringing" possibilities in the metal of the horn to begin with, and it really doesn't require much to do that to begin with....you can actually take a coupe of latex rubber gloves and wrap them around the horn and achieve the same thing!  People tend to over-do everything on this forum, which is totally ridiculous, IMHO!

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4 hours ago, HDBRbuilder said:

You can get plasti-dip in gallon-sized or smaller cans, too...which is what I would recommend, and just take a paint brush and apply it....that way you get a thicker coating for the outside of the horn lens...with the added advantage that yu can ALSO apply a thin even coat to the face of the mounting flange of the horn lense in order to achieve a better seal to the motor-board when re-attaching it.  As for the thickness of the coating, it doesn't NEED to be very thick, just enough to cover the surface completely in a relatively even coating.  After all, you are JUST needing to damp any "ringing" possibilities in the metal of the horn to begin with, and it really doesn't require much to do that to begin with....you can actually take a coupe of latex rubber gloves and wrap them around the horn and achieve the same thing!  People tend to over-do everything on this forum, which is totally ridiculous, IMHO!

 

i agree the brush on would be better, the link was to a spray can.  i also agree people in general can over do things,  but i think a few pieces of the butyl roofing tape or dynamat type stuff if you have it would be a lot easier to apply & definitely easier to remove if needed.  & being much thicker would dampen better than a thin(er) coat of plastidip.  or the rope caulk which is very cheap & easy to apply/remove, just seems the better approach to not over-doing an experiment with dampening vibrations.  any of them will help. 

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Thickness of the coating in and of itself wouldn't matter as much as the mass by itself.  1-1/2" of even tightly compressed goose down wouldn't achieve near the result as 1/8" of roofing material.

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5 hours ago, HDBRbuilder said:

You can get plasti-dip in gallon-sized or smaller cans, too...which is what I would recommend, and just take a paint brush and apply it....that way you get a thicker coating for the outside of the horn lens...with the added advantage that yu can ALSO apply a thin even coat to the face of the mounting flange of the horn lense in order to achieve a better seal to the motor-board when re-attaching it.  As for the thickness of the coating, it doesn't NEED to be very thick, just enough to cover the surface completely in a relatively even coating.  After all, you are JUST needing to damp any "ringing" possibilities in the metal of the horn to begin with, and it really doesn't require much to do that to begin with....you can actually take a coupe of latex rubber gloves and wrap them around the horn and achieve the same thing!  People tend to over-do everything on this forum, which is totally ridiculous, IMHO!

I l tell you what , easiest would be to cover the horn with regular foam and tape it up ----

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On 1/20/2020 at 7:37 PM, Tony T said:

 

did you try any of these materials -

 

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No I haven't. Your point makes sense regarding application of the "plasti-dip" and I believe that is the proper way to go. I like the variety of colors they offer which will nicely contrast the powder coat coloring.

 

Thanks to all! I will post pictures later.

 

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Parts express has a product called Sonic Barrier.  I found it to be a good, less expensive alternative to dynamat.

2019-12-22 15.48.46.jpg

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Back when you could still buy this stuff, now discontinued, I purchased 2 cases of this for all of my future projects. I still have 1 case left. I use it for all kinds of sound dampening. Works great inside a PC case too.

 

 

Sound-Damping-Material-MAX13-VSD-CK-detailed-image-1.jpg

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On 1/23/2020 at 3:20 AM, HDBRbuilder said:

Has anybody tried this yet?

 

 

😉

looks really good -

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On 1/25/2020 at 9:58 AM, CECAA850 said:

Parts express has a product called Sonic Barrier.  I found it to be a good, less expensive alternative to dynamat.

2019-12-22 15.48.46.jpg

sure covers the surfaces perfectly -

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I used Noico sound deadening mat on cast aluminum altec 511b horns. It works very well and the price is about 1/3 or 1/4 of Dynamat per area. Altec 511b doesn't have very flat surface so wrapping can be a little tricky but definitely doable. I didn't make side-by-side comparison between Noico mat and Dynamat so I cannot say which one is better. All my friends are impressed by the effect of wrapping. Before wrapping the horns sound like metal (of course since they really are) by knocking them, and after they sound like wooden pieces. Haven't tried my k401 horns yet - the surface is pretty rough.

 

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01KZ5X7KO/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

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