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Recovering speaker grills


mopardave

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Gonna be recovering some grills for my Cornscala and Super Heresy.   I’m looking for any tips and tricks anyone may know that would be helpful.   The gentleman at Wendell frantic told me to be sure to bow the grill while covering. This tightens up the material to prevent sags, but I’m not sure how much bow is required.   Appreciate any info.      Thanks guys

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I like to put a layer of thin black material on first (the cheap stuff from Parts Express is fine) and also paint the grill a flat black (you probably already knew that).

 

This helps prevent you from seeing through the grill. If you are using a light color cloth, this black cloth underneath helps reveal the texture of a linen, cane, or textured cloth. Try it and see. I used a faux linen with out the black backer and it looked like an uninteresting bedsheet. However with the black backer you could see all the texture nicely. Just be careful since the two layers can bunch up at the edges if you are not keeping an eye on it. Don't worry about the double layer attenuating the high frequencies. I did before and after measures and they came out the same.

 

BTW, what cloth are you using? If it is a substantial black cloth, then ignore the above advice.

 

Good Luck,

-Tom

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13 minutes ago, PrestonTom said:

I like to put a layer of thin black material on first (the cheap stuff from Parts Express is fine) and also paint the grill a flat black (you probably already knew that).

 

This helps prevent you from seeing through the grill. If you are using a light color cloth, this black cloth underneath helps reveal the texture of a linen, cane, or textured cloth. Try it and see. I used a faux linen with out the black backer and it looked like an uninteresting bedsheet. However with the black backer you could see all the texture nicely. Just be careful since the two layers can bunch up at the edges if you are not keeping an eye on it. Don't worry about the double layer attenuating the high frequencies. I did before and after measures and they came out the same.

 

BTW, what cloth are you using? If it is a substantial black cloth, then ignore the above advice.

 

Good Luck,

-Tom

Using some 18ct stuff from 123stitch and gull Ford.   Off white and medium grey. Building two pair.   Thanks for the ideas.  Do you bow the grill when applying material.

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1 minute ago, mopardave said:

Using some 18ct stuff from 123stitch and gull Ford.   Off white and medium grey. Building two pair.   Thanks for the ideas.  Do you bow the grill when applying material.

 

If the material is heavier and has some stretch, I put a couple of staples (on the back) on the one side in the middle and then do the opposite side. I get the middle third(s) done and then move to the other axis (top and bottom). Keep track that the pattern is stretching evenly and does not wander. The corners come last and this where the material can bunch up.  Rather than bowing the grill, I pull it fairly tight before stapling. Definitely a two-handed job. Just try and maintain a constant pressure when tugging on the fabric. You can see how the pattern of the fabric stretches too far when you tug on it - just check often and be consistent. 

 

In your case, what I am concerned about is that the material is so light (I have used low thread count material before). It did not "stretch" very evenly. If I can even call it "stretching". It can be done, but keep a keen eye on how the rows and lines of the threads are drifting as you work your way to the corners. Also, put the staple in at a bit of an angle (not perfectly parallel to the grille's edge). By dong this the staple will now catch several threads (running parallel to the edge of the grille). 

 

Some claim that you can just do a decent job getting the material taut when you staple. Afterwards, mist the fabric with a squirt bottle (barely damp and not soaking). Then take a hair dryer to it  (moving it constantly). The idea is to get the fabric to shrink a little (if it is cotton it should work). Beware: I have read this on the internet , but I have not actually tried it myself. 

 

Good Luck,

-Tom

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49 minutes ago, PrestonTom said:

 

If the material is heavier and has some stretch, I put a couple of staples (on the back) on the one side in the middle and then do the opposite side. I get the middle third(s) done and then move to the other axis (top and bottom). Keep track that the pattern is stretching evenly and does not wander. The corners come last and this where the material can bunch up.  Rather than bowing the grill, I pull it fairly tight before stapling. Definitely a two-handed job. Just try and maintain a constant pressure when tugging on the fabric. You can see how the pattern of the fabric stretches too far when you tug on it - just check often and be consistent. 

 

In your case, what I am concerned about is that the material is so light (I have used low thread count material before). It did not "stretch" very evenly. If I can even call it "stretching". It can be done, but keep a keen eye on how the rows and lines of the threads are drifting as you work your way to the corners. Also, put the staple in at a bit of an angle (not perfectly parallel to the grille's edge). By dong this the staple will now catch several threads (running parallel to the edge of the grille). 

 

Some claim that you can just do a decent job getting the material taut when you staple. Afterwards, mist the fabric with a squirt bottle (barely damp and not soaking). Then take a hair dryer to it  (moving it constantly). The idea is to get the fabric to shrink a little (if it is cotton it should work). Beware: I have read this on the internet , but I have not actually tried it myself. 

 

Good Luck,

-Tom

Ok, thanks for that.  I have covered the Cornwall grills 3 different times using the black Klipsch material the first time and using 3m spray glue.  The black material turned out nice, but the next 2 try’s with a different (can’t remember what it’s called) material, it sagged both times in the openings of the grill.  I pulled it as tight as I could get it while glueing down.  I planned on glueing this time as well.  The glue holds real nice, but to keep the material tight is the trick.  

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5 minutes ago, mopardave said:

Ok, thanks for that.  I have covered the Cornwall grills 3 different times using the black Klipsch material the first time and using 3m spray glue.  The black material turned out nice, but the next 2 try’s with a different (can’t remember what it’s called) material, it sagged both times in the openings of the grill.  I pulled it as tight as I could get it while glueing down.  I planned on glueing this time as well.  The glue holds real nice, but to keep the material tight is the trick.  

 

Okay, so no staples on the back?

How is the cloth tensioned during the dry time?

Are you using the 3M stuff or is it some sort of contact cement (coat both sides and wait until it tacks up)?

I would love to see you post some photos of how you get this to work.

 

Good luck

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26 minutes ago, PrestonTom said:

 

Okay, so no staples on the back?

How is the cloth tensioned during the dry time?

Are you using the 3M stuff or is it some sort of contact cement (coat both sides and wait until it tacks up)?

I would love to see you post some photos of how you get this to work.

 

Good luck

Don’t think I have any photos, but yes, no staples.   I have never tried using staples. I do spray both surfaces and let them get real tacky.  I start at one end getting it wrapped around and stuck real good On the back side, than I stretch it with someone else holding the glued end and slowly applying the material while keeping it as taut as possible.   It’s not easy. Just take your time.   I will have to look at my Heresy grills, but I don’t think they have staples in them.   If I were to use staples, they would have to be a very short staple or they would go through. Yes3M adhesive. These cane grills were applied same way, but sagged in the openings after a couple weeks.  Wendell says to bow the grill while applying to avoid sags, but I don’t know how much bow.

IMG_0415 3.jpg

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I have used several fabrics over the years. I always use staples along with the 3M adhesive spray on both the fabric and frame on the backs The staples hold it in place while drying. I use 3/16" staples with thick material and 1/8" with thin material. I do pretty much what Tom suggests. If it is very stretchy material, I stretch over the corners first, doing one then the diagonal while pulling tight. Then the other two corners the same way. Then I work my way around. I just did a set with some very thick cane from Mojotone. It was not very easy to work with and as Tom said, you have to keep an eye on the weave pattern to stay straight. These I started in the middle not the corner. Did one side lined up on the pattern about 6 inches starting in the middle and working one staple in each direction. I then pulled tight across the frame with a fabric pliers (vice grip with a duck bill for lack of a better term). I then did the top and stretched to the bottom. The fabric definitely had more stretch in one direction than the other so I started with that direction (weft and warp is the term usually used). You have to get creative on the corners but keep straight. Use lots of spray adhesive, pound flat with a small hammer and trim excess. 

If you are doing two sets, do the lighter weight material first, it should be easier. By the time you do the second one, you will be an expert. I may do mine again, just to implement what I learned the first time. Hope this rambling helps. Oh, and I tried to do the bowing the frame technique but it kept slipping on my so i quit. I have no sagging, yet.

 

cane3.thumb.jpg.bec03e988ab2688c97304e383e3428c5.jpg

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36 minutes ago, MookieStl said:

I have used several fabrics over the years. I always use staples along with the 3M adhesive spray on both the fabric and frame on the backs The staples hold it in place while drying. I use 3/16" staples with thick material and 1/8" with thin material. I do pretty much what Tom suggests. If it is very stretchy material, I stretch over the corners first, doing one then the diagonal while pulling tight. Then the other two corners the same way. Then I work my way around. I just did a set with some very thick cane from Mojotone. It was not very easy to work with and as Tom said, you have to keep an eye on the weave pattern to stay straight. These I started in the middle not the corner. Did one side lined up on the pattern about 6 inches starting in the middle and working one staple in each direction. I then pulled tight across the frame with a fabric pliers (vice grip with a duck bill for lack of a better term). I then did the top and stretched to the bottom. The fabric definitely had more stretch in one direction than the other so I started with that direction (weft and warp is the term usually used). You have to get creative on the corners but keep straight. Use lots of spray adhesive, pound flat with a small hammer and trim excess. 

If you are doing two sets, do the lighter weight material first, it should be easier. By the time you do the second one, you will be an expert. I may do mine again, just to implement what I learned the first time. Hope this rambling helps. Oh, and I tried to do the bowing the frame technique but it kept slipping on my so i quit. I have no sagging, yet.

 

cane3.thumb.jpg.bec03e988ab2688c97304e383e3428c5.jpg

Those look very nice.  I need to find some 1/8” staples.  How much bow did you put in the grill?

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1 minute ago, mopardave said:

Those look very nice.  I need to find some 1/8” staples.  How much bow did you put in the grill?

I did not bow the frame, tried to but could not keep it straight. Maybe if I had a third hand, I could have made that work. I was able to pull fairly tight the fabric pliers, so just gave up on the bowing method.

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FWIW.

 

I had some success with hot glue rather than spray-on adhesive.

 

It was to lay down a long string of hot glue on the frame.  Then put the fabric over it.  Then  apply a clothes iron to the fabric to melt the hot glue.

 

WMcD

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Never done speaker grilles but have done thousands of yards of carpet.  Can't imagine it would be any different.  One man's "best way" is likely another's "WTF?".

 

I'd start on one side, pulling it tight from corner to corner then anchor it straight.  Then one of the adjacent sides complete.  Then the next available long side complete, and finish by straightening the last short side while anchoring it.  Essentially dealing with triangles on the two middle operations.

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5 hours ago, glens said:

Never done speaker grilles but have done thousands of yards of carpet.  Can't imagine it would be any different.  One man's "best way" is likely another's "WTF?".

 

I'd start on one side, pulling it tight from corner to corner then anchor it straight.  Then one of the adjacent sides complete.  Then the next available long side complete, and finish by straightening the last short side while anchoring it.  Essentially dealing with triangles on the two middle operations.

I agree. I have done several without staples, but I may try the staple in each corner as that would hold better.   I think the issue I had with the cane grills was, I should have let the material relax a couple weeks before I installed it.  The sagging may have been from the material relaxing after it was applied.

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This reminds me that at some point soon, I really need to finish the bass bin grills on my Belle clones.  I'd started one about 2 years ago then the house sale happened.  Still debating on keeping the stock look or making it "my own" sine they are "Klipsch Inspired".  I've got some original black grill cloth that matches the original cloth on the top grill from a '78 Belle (I believe it is).  This material is definitely tougher to work with but doable.

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33 minutes ago, avguytx said:

This reminds me that at some point soon, I really need to finish the bass bin grills on my Belle clones.  I'd started one about 2 years ago then the house sale happened.  Still debating on keeping the stock look or making it "my own" sine they are "Klipsch Inspired".  I've got some original black grill cloth that matches the original cloth on the top grill from a '78 Belle (I believe it is).  This material is definitely tougher to work with but doable.

Yes. The black Klipsch material I have is nylon and very stiff stuff.

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