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rplace

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Just now, CECAA850 said:

HANG ON.  You have a male fitting on your machine right?  If so, I linked the wrong part.

 

Yes, Espresso Machine has male 1/8 fitting as the water inlet to the machine.

 

The added wrinkle of Water Pressure Regulator is my machine requires water pressure to be between 1 and 1.5 Bars. I'm guessing my RO water supply line to the Fridge is more than that. So far my research suggest to NOT connect Espresso machine directly to water supply. Cut off ball valve for extended times away.

 

RO Filter>>Tee to faucet and Fridge>>Tee at Fridge>>Cut off valve>>Pressure Regulator>>1/8 BSPP>>E Machine

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5 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

RO water pressure is about half of what your city line pressure is so I'll bet it's close but you can always get a regulator for peace of mind.

 

I'm in the country on a well, so no Fluoride/chlorine pretty tasty water but lots of Iron/sediment. We have a softener and whole house filter up stream from the RO system. Like you said, peace of mind as the Espresso machine was not cheap.

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16 minutes ago, rplace said:

 

I'm in the country on a well, so no Fluoride/chlorine pretty tasty water but lots of Iron/sediment. We have a softener and whole house filter up stream from the RO system. Like you said, peace of mind as the Espresso machine was not cheap.

I've used RO water with my coffee maker and espresso maker since they were new.  Never had a build up or deposit issue with either one.

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9 minutes ago, CECAA850 said:

I've used RO water with my coffee maker and espresso maker since they were new.  Never had a build up or deposit issue with either one.

 

I think this might simplify things. Do you agree that if the 3/8 BDP male fitting is on the out put side would simply connect my existing hose (stainless in first post) directly to the machine? If so then I just need to get my RO shut off valve to the regulator

 

https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/bwt-inline-pressure-reduce-m-3-8-x-f-3-8-2-8-bar

 

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16 minutes ago, rplace said:

 

I think this might simplify things. Do you agree that if the 3/8 BDP male fitting is on the out put side would simply connect my existing hose (stainless in first post) directly to the machine? If so then I just need to get my RO shut off valve to the regulator

 

https://www.wholelattelove.com/products/bwt-inline-pressure-reduce-m-3-8-x-f-3-8-2-8-bar

 

It says it's good from 2-8bar.  I thought you wanted 1-1.5 bar?

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15 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

It says it's good from 2-8bar.  I thought you wanted 1-1.5 bar?

It goes to zero so I don't know how it can start at 2....but probably better to look elsewhere. I'm seeing some John Guest fittings that go 3/8 BSP to 3/8 tubing like my 1/4 RO tubing....what ever that is called. Seem promising.

 

Looking at the start of my RO system I believe there is a 3/8 to 1/4 reducer as it branches off to run under my kitchen floor to span the width across the room to the refrigerator.

 

Thoughts on 1/4 Tee at fridge to 1/4 to 3/8 adaptor which keeps John Guest fittings with the plastic no tool tubes and fittings all the way to 3/8 John Guest to 3/8 BSP? From there I would just have the intended stainless hose the provided.

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11 minutes ago, rplace said:

Thoughts on 1/4 Tee at fridge to 1/4 to 3/8 adaptor which keeps John Guest fittings with the plastic no tool tubes and fittings all the way to 3/8 John Guest to 3/8 BSP? From there I would just have the intended stainless hose the provided.

There will eventually be 100 ways to skin this cat.  I mostly wanted you to be familiar with the fittings you were working with as it seemed you weren't.  You can configure it any way you want as long as you use the correct fittings at each junction to ensure that you have no leaks.

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Just now, CECAA850 said:

There will eventually be 100 ways to skin this cat.  I mostly wanted you to be familiar with the fittings you were working with as it seemed you weren't.  You can configure it any way you want as long as you use the correct fittings at each junction to ensure that you have no leaks.

I was thinking I needed to go copper and flare fittings all the way. I guess that is old school. Appreciate the heads up on the brittish/Euro fittings. Are those tool-less fittings call John Guest fine and dandy as long as they are installed correctly? There is a dedicated cutter and it is only $9. Seems like a worth while purchase.

 

With this....

 

https://www.chriscoffee.com/products/pressure-regulator-valve?variant=12056140382244

 

and this

 

https://www.chriscoffee.com/products/bspt-to-john-guest-fitting?variant=30394102284324

 

I think I am mostly home free. There are check valves in both 1/4 and 3/8 and 1/4 to 3/8 adaptors. So it seems like I can easily move from 1/4 at the fridge to 3/8 the rest of the way and that first link gets me to my intended hook up.

 

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I've used the push style fittings in both RO systems I've had and never had the first leak.  The pressures really aren't that high and they make a good seal.  It's also nice when you have to troubleshoot a pressure drop issue or recharge your tank that all you have to do is pop them loose and then plug them back together.

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21 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

I've used RO water with my coffee maker and espresso maker since they were new.  Never had a build up or deposit issue with either one.

You never can, RO water in a decent setup is just a hair, and I mean a hair, below distilled.  

21 hours ago, rplace said:

 

I'm in the country on a well, so no Fluoride/chlorine pretty tasty water but lots of Iron/sediment. We have a softener and whole house filter up stream from the RO system. Like you said, peace of mind as the Espresso machine was not cheap.

The only thing that your RO should be doing if it's the correct softener and your iron isn't suspended would be removing the trace salt from the softener and any chemical that may be present, but your filters should last an extremely long period of time for sure. 

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