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My Belles Say Thank You


FalconXXXX
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My Belles sound amazing.  I purchased my Belles from my friend recently.  When I brought them home and listened to them I was a little disapointed but not surprised because the had the original AA's.  After reading many pages on the forum, I bought new caps, a cool inductor, and new horn seals.  I reused my tweeter inductor, autotransformer, and board.  I didn't have the money for expensive caps but the Dayton premium 1% caps were recommended from a few people.  I removed the steel screw from the tweeter inductor.  I removed the tweeter protection.  No 2 year olds around.  I started to use fasteners to hold the caps but ended up using a little hot glue.  I'll come up with a better plan next time.  I didn't like having heat on the caps.  The horn seals were rock hard.  Glad Bob had some new ones.  My Belles now sound great.  Eventually the tweeter will be on top for time alignment and maybe a larger horn, but for now I'm very pleased.

 

 

652148762_BellesAAs.thumb.jpeg.720d4a64ae3c51bd26b2444f63e61e83.jpeg

 

I'm sitting here listening to some old acoustic Pink Floyd and I'm hearing things for the first time.  Very cool.

 

I just want to say Thank You to everyone on the forum. 

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Cool.  Soon after I bought them, I replaced the original caps in my then 32-year-old La Scalas (with AA crossovers), based on what I’d read on the Forum, and I was immediately glad I did.  This is a great place for sharing Klipsch info.

 

Also, welcome to the Forum!

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Looks good bet it sounds a lot better. I did same thing years ago also changed to crites tweet and 4500HZ type crossover. If you got the Belles on hardwood I would suggest furniture grippers for the bottom of them. You could also change out that old inductor it not a lot of cost for new one. 

I used O-Rings for my mid-range seals because I could see the edge of washer protruding into the horn path. Do the new ones do that? 

I would tighten up all mounting screws and replace seal on woofer bin if not done already. 

I also painted the outside and inside of my mid horn with rustoleom enamel after sanding all the seams best I could. IMAG0304.thumb.jpg.c9296704c70a8765edc1cb83a4ea7bee.jpg

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  • 1 month later...

A comment/suggestion on your build, you should never have a "floating" solder joint. I'd consider using a brad nailed to the board and wrap the cap leads and wires to the brad and solder to the brad. Any movement to those connections my cause an intermittent problem down the road. Maybe you have a nail there and I can't see it, just a suggestion to improve your results.

 

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I don't know about the brads, but the strength of a joint shouldn't be provided by just the solder.  I've always had great success in situations like that above by folding the end of the lead back and crimping the wire with it prior to soldering.  That is a tidy assembly shown above.

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