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M_Klipsch

Table Tuba Build

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2 hours ago, jason str said:

Oil is nice but offers little protection. Is that Baltic Birch you used ?

 

If you like the natural look a good wax works too but needs reapplication same as oils. Wax tends to hide fillers better as it does not darken after application.

 

Many choices and not a bad one in the bunch.

 

 

Yes Baltic Birch. I don’t mind the maintenance of oil. And as it darkens over time it will match the La Scalas. I think I’ve decided Tung Oil, as it is what I’ve got on the shelf, and with Apocalypse quarantine being what it is... 

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One of these days when time allows and I'm caught up on building "stuff" for the new (1 year old) house, I'm going to build one of these since I bought the plans already.  Looking good!

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I’m ready to begin the finish. As I replied to Jason str, I’m going with Tung Oil, I think  it has turned out pretty good so far. Don’t get me wrong, my Jr. High shop teacher would point out where the top is misaligned a bit ( it slipped a little when I clamped it). He’d also say I need to sand it more, but he always said that. I think his logic was, if I was still sanding, I didn’t have time to start another project. Good guy though, I learned a lot of useful stuff. 
it is good sized for sure. Not as big as the La Scalas, but on edge, it’s about shoulder high to a Standard Poodle. Standard Poodle shown for comparison. 

F2694F26-C55B-44B1-904C-51B086155FDA.jpeg

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Nice French Hunting Dog!!!

And nice job so far on the TT.

 

My last few projects I have been using Rubio Monocoat for finish.

https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/en?reset&country=us

 

Amazingly easy to use and apply, made the Flat Cut Walnut pop on the trio of H3s I just finished.

I will post a couple pics when I get home.

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@M_Klipsch  So what did the actual dimensions of your cabinet end up being?   You used the Dayton 10", right?  What amp will you end up using?

 

@jason str  Are there any car audio woofers that work just as well that you've used or tested?  I guess it would be just making sure it falls within the Fs, Qts, and Vas and make sure the depth works as Bill listed.  I have access to various brands of car audio woofers I can buy for cost and possibly find one in a dual 8-ohm version so I can run a stereo amp on it.  That is if I go with the Rockford RF2000 home amp I have.  Otherwise, it may be one of the Dayton "plate amps" with DSP.

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10 minutes ago, avguytx said:

 

@jason str  Are there any car audio woofers that work just as well that you've used or tested?  I guess it would be just making sure it falls within the Fs, Qts, and Vas and make sure the depth works as Bill listed.  I have access to various brands of car audio woofers I can buy for cost and possibly find one in a dual 8-ohm version so I can run a stereo amp on it.  That is if I go with the Rockford RF2000 home amp I have.  Otherwise, it may be one of the Dayton "plate amps" with DSP.

 

There used to be, not sure there available anymore.

 

As long as it falls within the parameters and front mountable you will be good.

 

 

 

 

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1 hour ago, HPower said:

Nice French Hunting Dog!!!

And nice job so far on the TT.

 

My last few projects I have been using Rubio Monocoat for finish.

https://www.rubiomonocoatusa.com/en?reset&country=us

 

Amazingly easy to use and apply, made the Flat Cut Walnut pop on the trio of H3s I just finished.

I will post a couple pics when I get home.

Thank ya.He’d make a good retriever and likely ok with gunfire, nothing rattles him too much. Poodles are actually of German origin, but the National Dog of France. I guess the Germans owe them that much. That Rubio Monocoat looks interesting, I’ll consider it for my next project. 

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50 minutes ago, avguytx said:

@M_Klipsch  So what did the actual dimensions of your cabinet end up being?   You used the Dayton 10", right?  What amp will you end up using?

 

@jason str

30” X 30” 22” Yes Dayton, DCS255-4. I’m going to use a Yung SD300 plate amp.  

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Here is my German herding dog... and other things he is.

IMG_1892_sm.thumb.jpg.31a539c69855a7a45af098c7c5267f00.jpg

 

 

And the Monocoat...

 

IMG_1901_sm.thumb.jpg.1a09cd4be5a86f01d0f010da761cef40.jpg

 

IMG_1908_sm.thumb.jpg.244a072387ffad5ababad218344a4250.jpg

 

IMG_1910_sm.thumb.jpg.269fa71c8d6b63f209c07fabb3082936.jpg

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17 minutes ago, HPower said:

Here is my German herding dog... and other things he is.

IMG_1892_sm.thumb.jpg.31a539c69855a7a45af098c7c5267f00.jpg

 

 

And the Monocoat...

 

IMG_1901_sm.thumb.jpg.1a09cd4be5a86f01d0f010da761cef40.jpg

 

IMG_1908_sm.thumb.jpg.244a072387ffad5ababad218344a4250.jpg

 

IMG_1910_sm.thumb.jpg.269fa71c8d6b63f209c07fabb3082936.jpg

 

 

 

Man, those Heresys look NICE !! When are you going to show those LaScalas some love ??

 

Roger

 

 

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3 hours ago, HPower said:

Here is my German herding dog... and other things he is.

IMG_1892_sm.thumb.jpg.31a539c69855a7a45af098c7c5267f00.jpg

 

 

And the Monocoat...

 

IMG_1901_sm.thumb.jpg.1a09cd4be5a86f01d0f010da761cef40.jpg

 

Nice looking dog. I had a GSD when I was a kid. Great dog. My parents’ last dog was a Shepherd. They never really got over him. Good dog but a little “hair trigger”. Nice work on the Heresys. Those look really good. Great finish, I’ll definitely look into it for my next project. 

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First, maybe second coat. Only about a hundred more to go. I had to take liberties with the screw holes. Every bit of wood filler I had was dried up and barely useful. I couldn’t justify  going out just to buy it, so you work with what ya got.  I tried the wood glue/sanding dust as filler it’s ok but not subtle. I hope to dial it in as I go. Either that, or call it “character”.

48866DEC-9900-466C-87A8-E2AD653BF187.jpeg

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Maybe put a different kind of "table top" on it that can hide those screw holes if you're so inclined.  Give it an overhang edge like a coffee table might have possibly.

 

Looks great!  

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Awesome, I think it looks great! You could always get a piece of smoked glass cut to put on the top if the screw holes annoy you.

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37 minutes ago, avguytx said:

Maybe put a different kind of "table top" on it that can hide those screw holes if you're so inclined.  Give it an overhang edge like a coffee table might have possibly.

 

Looks great!  

 

I like that idea as well.

Maybe add 4 short legs at each corner and then add some accent trim along the horizontal edges and vertical corners.

 

hqdefault.jpg.3353640cd425f9a489071bd4cf55b621.jpg

 

unnamed.jpg.4cf7b7d5484a097b18e0c2e77ff261f7.jpg

 

subassembly21.jpg.2d76da49ab700a3e6c81117e4a77bb35.jpg

 

You could leave the body of your cabinet natural blonde like you are, and then have the top, legs, trim with a darker finish like Walnut for a nice contrast.

 

 

 

 

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9 hours ago, M_Klipsch said:

First, maybe second coat. Only about a hundred more to go. I had to take liberties with the screw holes. Every bit of wood filler I had was dried up and barely useful. I couldn’t justify  going out just to buy it, so you work with what ya got.  I tried the wood glue/sanding dust as filler it’s ok but not subtle. I hope to dial it in as I go. Either that, or call it “character”.

48866DEC-9900-466C-87A8-E2AD653BF187.jpeg

 

I have been building mostly with Kreg pocket screws.

The main reasons is not as much clamping is required (hardly any) and there are little if any external screw holes to patch.

In retrospect, with a large cabinet like your TT....

If you used pocket screws for all panels except the very last panel (the top in above pic) you

could simply designate that panel as the bottom.

Out of sight, out of mind.

 

 

 

When I build larger cabinets

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If you use a brad nailer instead of screws you end up with pin head sized fill spots.

 

If placing a panel on top you will need to strip all the oil off before gluing it on.

 

 

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@avguytx         <---   Can't get it to link, sorry.

 

>this< 10" would be good.

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3 hours ago, jason str said:

If you use a brad nailer instead of screws you end up with pin head sized fill spots.

 

If placing a panel on top you will need to strip all the oil off before gluing it on.

 

 

I almost used the nailer on the top but I wanted to make sure there was a good seal on the top, plus I worried about a brad going askew andcompromising the seal. I figured the screws would pull it down more tightly. When I built the T18 I used scrap wood in the center and crosspieces to apply clamping force in the center then clamped the sides as well. No nail or screw holes at all. If that makes sense? The TT size didn’t allow me to do that. Although, I just realized how I could have accomplished that. Oh well maybe I’ll use that next time.

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4 hours ago, avguytx said:

Maybe put a different kind of "table top" on it that can hide those screw holes if you're so inclined.  Give it an overhang edge like a coffee table might have possibly.

 

Looks great!  

Good idea. But it’s already almost too big. I’m hesitant to make it even larger. 

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