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Yet another Forte rebuild


roadworn

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So after my Hersey rebuild I’am taking on a set of Forte II’s. I acquired a matched pair and have started refinish. I have sealed the cabinet seams with glue and sealed the inside of the front of the cab with Flex seal rubber coating. I also dampened the Mid horn lens, woofer and Passive cages with Flex seal in addition a few strips of ultimat product to further deaden them. I braced the inside of the cab as well. I ordered some 18 ct Lambswool Linen to replace the torn ugly blackish grill covers. Going to drop them off at the cleaners to get a proper pressing.
I flipped over the factory speaker bottom to see if it modernize the look a bit, I think it kind of makes them look like their floating, jurys still out on this mod. Replaced the connection posts with some nice new ones. I was surprised how well the veneer cleaned up. someone had put many coats of clear on these at some point, maybe that was good thing, at any rate Iam happy that I dont have to recover them.

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Edited by roadworn
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Hmm the crossovers. So much to take in on this subject, Thank you so much to the Members that I have PM'd with questions and to all that contribute here on the forum. I will be experimenting with a variation of the ALK. Here is a mock up, ideas poached from many.  The leads on the litz cores are a bit longer than I need.. Can you trim these back? Iam sure that the difference if trimmed would be Negligiblebut it would be good to know what effect it would have.

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6 hours ago, glens said:

Gotta laugh about that and ask, don't you use straightedges in metalworking?

Indeed I do and I did haha. Sadly I have never used the router and the learning curve is bigger than I expected. Figuering out the proper RPM for this hard wood and then once you dont have both edges of the router touching the wood it becomes a wild mess in a hot min. In this instance a table router would have been a better choice. The second one was a bit better but still emabarrasing. I suspect If i was bit more patience and practiced I could make it pretty or a t least average, haha. I should have just started over with it but I'm running out of time to get this done. Danm dude, the top looks pretty good though?  right?  🙂

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10-4 on that "pretty wild in a hot minute"!  It can be like randomly twiddling both knobs on an Etch-a-Sketch for sure.  Same thing with zipping out drywall around electrical boxes: the right direction hugs the outline while the wrong way does, well, you know...

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5 hours ago, glens said:

10-4 on that "pretty wild in a hot minute"!  It can be like randomly twiddling both knobs on an Etch-a-Sketch for sure.  Same thing with zipping out drywall around electrical boxes: the right direction hugs the outline while the wrong way does, well, you know...

Yes, get's away from you pretty quick.

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I bought a compact router a couple of years ago, and it is much easier to control and for working on my La Scalas was easily capable for the job. I had borrowed a full sized one a few years ago and it was kind of difficult to use.

 

Not saying they are never needed, but for my projects the smaller one has been great.

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8 minutes ago, glens said:

I believe he wanted to use fancy coils and caps.

 

The Audyn caps aren't fancy and certainly not too pricey. I have some in my DHA2 crossovers and they work pretty well, although I'm half deaf and I built them over ten years ago. 😉

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Ahhh... Well they could be shortened a little, and as he said it would probably be insignificant. The harder thing is getting the enamel off the strands at the ends so you can terminated them. I think I used a butane lighter.

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2 hours ago, Randyh said:

you should have told the guy who sold you the fabric to put it in a roll -  who did you buy the fabric from ------

I did, and they shipped  it folded up. My guess is that they get the fabric from overseas in a small folded package, the cleaners had a hell of time getting the wrinkles out.

https://hobbyhouseneedleworks.com

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Edited by roadworn
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2 hours ago, glens said:

I believe he'd asked in another thread about shortening the leads on Litz-wire inductors and it appears an alternate option was used.

Yea, as I said in the other post, Iam sure it would have made little difference, but I chose to just coil it up on the bottom. I would like to know how precise the length effects it though?

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2 hours ago, Randyh said:

the old crossovers were no good ?  - 

The speakers sounded OK.  When I tested some of the caps on the old X overs several of the caps were pretty far outside spec, more than 40%. So as with most on this fourm I set out to hopefully make the speakers sound better. My choices for caps were based on the musings found on this fourm to have made an improvemnt to Forte's within a resonable $$ . And with that I took some creative justice as well. The total cost is about the same as a pair of ALK's. 🙂

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45 minutes ago, Marvel said:

Ahhh... Well they could be shortened a little, and as he said it would probably be insignificant. The harder thing is getting the enamel off the strands at the ends so you can terminated them. I think I used a butane lighter.

Someone else on the fourm suggested sand paper on each strand and thats what i did. Worked great!

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2 hours ago, Marvel said:

 

The Audyn caps aren't fancy and certainly not too pricey. I have some in my DHA2 crossovers and they work pretty well, although I'm half deaf and I built them over ten years ago. 😉

The Miflex KPCU 0.47uF and the Audiocap Theta 7uF's  were for sure the big spenders on this board. I hope they will be worth their weight in listening pleasure.

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