justinsweber Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Hope everyone is safe. Im working 2-3 shifts a week in the ER doing mental health assessments and still doing a full load at the community clinic I work full time. Both positions are deemed essential due to need for management of emergent mental health needs. Each day Im getting my tempt checked and asked about symptoms before being let in the door. I have to say its become more stressful over the past 3 weeks and only seems to be compounding. With all these stressors cropping up, my mind turns to the long process of building a new set of speakers as an escape. About 4 months I reached out to Dave Harris and asked for baffles and horns. Dave was busy and put me in the Que. Then about a month ago, Dave was in the Irvine area and came and heard my lasted iteration with his baffles... Faital Horns/Faital & B&C driver combo for compression drivers. Its a truly great cornscala, built to the hilt... no screws more braces than you can shale a stick at.. That said, it doesnt have Dave's mid horn and I miss that. So after some repeated requests, Dave cut me some new baffles and horns. Like each before, there a but different; trying a new idea or two. The ports are 4" PCV and the baffles are MDF. Ive never built a speaker with the baffle being MDF. The horns and baffles key in so tight. Ill have to clearance them just a bit to get them in. The lovely thing with the MDF baffle to MDF horn is just how tight the tolerances are. There will be less fill time. Dave suggested I use a water based Poly to seal them a other products can wick the MDF. Last night I sealed them inside and out. The sealing the inside is likely an error as it has made them harder,but nothing some cut knuckles and sandpaper wont fix. The plan is highend Ply, lots of braces and everything bolted in place. Once the ports are glued in, Ill take a 1/2" round over to flare the port. Drivers and corssovers havnt been fully fleshed out. Few tid bits... The horns have to be sanded smooth first... then more polly and finishing. The last layer has to be finished separately. Ive pained them together and the paint cracked when they are pulled apart. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
moray james Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 work hard play hard! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
No.4 Posted March 23, 2020 Share Posted March 23, 2020 Glad to see a good project get started! Stay safe, I fear the next few weeks are going to be challenging. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted April 4, 2020 Author Share Posted April 4, 2020 Sanding, filling, primer... mix and repeat. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
The Dude Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Looking good, thanks for the inspiration in the audio world and health system. Keep it up, we need more people like you.Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rockhound Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 Justin as always just killer work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted April 4, 2020 Share Posted April 4, 2020 -We should call him the CornscalaMan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted April 5, 2020 Author Share Posted April 5, 2020 I’m still mulling if I should laminate a 1/2 ply to the inside. I’d have to route out with a collar and then expand the holes to make large enough to clear the first layer of Dave’s horns. I’ve never had a baffle thicker than 3/4”. Might be a good use of energy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted April 7, 2020 Author Share Posted April 7, 2020 So I’ve decided to laminate 1/2 ply to the back and rout it out to have the first layer of the horn key into the 2nd layer. The idea is for constrained layer dampening and increase Rigidity. I will prime both sides to seal it all up. when I finally get to build. I’ll dado in the baffle to some it ever coming lose. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted April 22, 2020 Author Share Posted April 22, 2020 slow progress but progress none the less. 3/4" CNC cut MDF baffle matted to 3/4" ply and hand cut. The 2nd layer of the horn now will key into the baffle the same way the 1st layer does. The hope is that the baffle is more rigid and the the horn is better supported too. After my existing Cornscalas are gone, Ill get to the building of this pair... I plan to dado the baffle into place. Here are the progress pics. 2 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted June 10, 2020 Author Share Posted June 10, 2020 Slow progress but cabinets and finishing will be done by 6-23. The baffle and back brace is dado’d into place. We did a interesting thing by cutting corner braces at 45deg. Should reduce cabinet residences. Here is where we are so far. Drivers are kappa 15C DCM50 and radian 1” for once I’ll have a tweeter that can really carry to 20K. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 3 hours ago, justinsweber said: Slow progress but cabinets and finishing will be done by 6-23. The baffle and back brace is dado’d into place. We did a interesting thing by cutting corner braces at 45deg. Should reduce cabinet residences. Here is where we are so far. Drivers are kappa 15C DCM50 and radian 1” for once I’ll have a tweeter that can really carry to 20K. quick question , why MDF vs BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 The sides are Baltic The rear brace is MDF. Dave Cit for me and I didn’t specify. The front baffle is 1.5” thick. 3/4” MDF which is meant to provide the tightest most cohesive fit into the horns which are also mdf. The 2nd layer of the baffle in ply for added strength. The rear panel is Baltic. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Also for the corner supports/deflectors have Posstive engagements tying front baffle to rear brace. In general I’m trying to reduce cabinet talk. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted June 11, 2020 Share Posted June 11, 2020 3 minutes ago, justinsweber said: Also for the corner supports/deflectors have Posstive engagements tying front baffle to rear brace. In general I’m trying to reduce cabinet talk. A worthwhile improvement, which has also been incorporated into the new Cornwall IV. I presume WITHOUT extra materials and the, perhaps "overkill" way you did it. Nice work as always. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted June 11, 2020 Author Share Posted June 11, 2020 Im not sure if Klipsch has incorporated deflectors as integrated bracing or dadoing. Both power on the face of it solid ideas. The 2 places I chose additional material is the back brace. I wanted more than the standard 3/4 mounting face. I have about 1.5” of shared contact face. The back board used 14 1/4-20 bolts to attach. The idea again to snuff the life out of cab talk. The other place was the double thick baffle. The idea is take. From subs I’ve seen built, and by wearing the materials between MDF and ply I should move the breakup nods higher up. I’m getting to a place here I’m less likely to be building a pair a year and so wanted one last big build. Al did a CSW which should pair well with the eliptrac and the dcm50. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted June 15, 2020 Author Share Posted June 15, 2020 Progress 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted June 27, 2020 Author Share Posted June 27, 2020 Bit more progress. Ready for assembly. 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted July 3, 2020 Author Share Posted July 3, 2020 Did final assembly. Tuning questions are left. Have the DE10 at -4 dB down. Likely to live to -6 it’s a small room and I want to be able to listen for 2hrs at a time without fatigue. Ive ordered an exceptional Faital HF that I may roll in but I intend to having tuning set for each. The DCM50 is at 9,0... the LF is a bit muted. I will switch to 12,0 and re-Listen. My Guy tell me I’ll be at 12, -1 when all is said and done. 1 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
justinsweber Posted July 3, 2020 Author Share Posted July 3, 2020 Final tuning: CSW400 DCM50/DE10 12,0 HF -6db Sounds great. -11db was better for voices but -12 makes feel it being more full sounding. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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