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~1972 Klipschorn questions....


Jafco

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This is my first post, so please understand that I might not be in the right forum. I will also post this in the Klipsch General Forum.

 

I worked for the Pacific Northwest Klipsch rep in the late '60's & '70's and traveled with PWK and RLM on the West Coast in Paul's Twin Beechcraft. Have lots of stories! Around 1972, Paul convinced me to sell my Cornwalls and buy Rosewood K-Horns and he'd watch over the order. I did and he did and the model is KB-RO and the serial #'s are 3H272 and 3H273. They were QC'd by Portus Gilley and have the original Type "A" crossover networks, original woofers (K33P I think), K55 (V, I think), but the original K77 (A, I think) had to be replaced with Klipsch K77M's. The K-Horns have been stored for many years, >20 years, but are now back in our media room. Unfortunately, the K77 tweeters are not working correctly, so now to my questions.... 1. Are the K77's repairable and, if not, what is available to replace them. 2. Would you replace the Type "A" crossover network?  3. Should I open the horn hatch and see if the woofer cones are still intact? Any other thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!!

Edited by Jafco
grammar
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Wow!  Great story!!!!

 

If the woofers are working, and you'd hear that immediately, leave them alone. 

 

Yes, the tweeters can be repaired, easily, and at home if you're handy.   Klipsch should have new diaphragm kits and critesspeakers.com does.  Start by removing the tweeter leads from the crossover and rub them on an AAA battery.  If you hear crackling, the tweeters are good and you need to look elsewhere. 

 

Loosen and retighten ALL connections to the crossover and drivers. 

 

I, and many here, think you would like a new Type AA network.  It's an update of the Type A, but still really similar.  Several members here (DeanG), critesspeakers.com and you, if your a little handy, can rebuild and convert your A to an AA.  It's easy.  Search the forums and f'book (if you use it) for Klipsch AA crossovers. 

 

Where do you live these days? 

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9 hours ago, Jafco said:

This is my first post, so please understand that I might not be in the forum. I will also post this in the Klipsch General Forum.

 

I worked for the Pacific Northwest Klipsch rep in the late '60's & '70's and traveled with PWK and RLM on the West Coast in Paul's Twin Beechcraft. Have lots of stories! Around 1972, Paul convinced me to sell my Cornwalls and buy Rosewood K-Horns and he'd watch over the order. I did and he did and the model is KB-RO and the serial #'s are 3H272 and 3H273. They were QC'd by Portus Gilley and have the original Type "A" crossover networks, original woofers (K33P I think), K55 (V, I think), but the original K77 (A, I think) had to be replaced with Klipsch K77M's. The K-Horns have been stored for many years, >20 years, but are now back in our media room. Unfortunately, the K77 tweeters are not working correctly, so now to my questions.... 1. Are the K77's repairable and, if not, what is available to replace them. 2. Would you replace the Type "A" crossover network?  3. Should I open the horn hatch and see if the woofer cones are still intact? Any other thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!!

 

 

 

Jafcp.

 

IF your tweeters need fixing, I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the diaphragms and NOT replacing parts with aftermarket parts ! Please leave them as Paul made them for you, your story is what makes these special, NOT non original parts!

 

Roger

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3 hours ago, mustang_flht said:

If your K77s are no longer ok, you can replace them with MAHL tweeters from @Dave A

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/184084-k-77-zee-bracket-drop-in-machined-horn-lens/

 

 

For your networks, I advise you to ask @Deang

 

 

Dude!

 

If you had an early 1950s K-Horn that had a blown driver and you could get the original driver fixed cheaply or buy an aftermarket driver you "THINK" might be better, would you put in an aftermarket driver ??

 

Answer; You would be a fool to put in aftermarket driver, being old and early is what makes it collectible...

 

Paul Wilbur Klipsch oversaw the build on these personally and they are a custom veneer, if the veneer had a missing piece, would you scab it in with a piece of Oak ?? Paul oversaw the build on these for a friend, you sure as hell don't go replacing parts with aftermarket parts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Roger

 

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11 hours ago, Jafco said:

This is my first post, so please understand that I might not be in the forum. I will also post this in the Klipsch General Forum.

 

I worked for the Pacific Northwest Klipsch rep in the late '60's & '70's and traveled with PWK and RLM on the West Coast in Paul's Twin Beechcraft. Have lots of stories! Around 1972, Paul convinced me to sell my Cornwalls and buy Rosewood K-Horns and he'd watch over the order. I did and he did and the model is KB-RO and the serial #'s are 3H272 and 3H273. They were QC'd by Portus Gilley and have the original Type "A" crossover networks, original woofers (K33P I think), K55 (V, I think), but the original K77 (A, I think) had to be replaced with Klipsch K77M's. The K-Horns have been stored for many years, >20 years, but are now back in our media room. Unfortunately, the K77 tweeters are not working correctly, so now to my questions.... 1. Are the K77's repairable and, if not, what is available to replace them. 2. Would you replace the Type "A" crossover network?  3. Should I open the horn hatch and see if the woofer cones are still intact? Any other thoughts or suggestions will be greatly appreciated!!!

 

I have a pair of K77M square magnet tweeters for sale if you are interested.  Garage sale section.

 

 

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1 hour ago, twistedcrankcammer said:

 

 

  5 hours ago, mustang_flht said:

If your K77s are no longer ok, you can replace them with MAHL tweeters from @Dave A

 

https://community.klipsch.com/index.php?/topic/184084-k-77-zee-bracket-drop-in-machined-horn-lens/

 

 

For your networks, I advise you to ask @Deang

 

 

Dude!

 

If you had an early 1950s K-Horn that had a blown driver and you could get the original driver fixed cheaply or buy an aftermarket driver you "THINK" might be better, would you put in an aftermarket driver ??

 

Answer; You would be a fool to put in aftermarket driver, being old and early is what makes it collectible...

 

Paul Wilbur Klipsch oversaw the build on these personally and they are a custom veneer, if the veneer had a missing piece, would you scab it in with a piece of Oak ?? Paul oversaw the build on these for a friend, you sure as hell don't go replacing parts with aftermarket parts !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Roger

 

Hi,

 

In my opinion, original parts or mod parts, that is discussed and it is a personal choice.

 

For me the 2 are good 😉

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4 hours ago, twistedcrankcammer said:

 

 

 

Jafcp.

 

IF your tweeters need fixing, I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the diaphragms and NOT replacing parts with aftermarket parts ! Please leave them as Paul made them for you, your story is what makes these special, NOT non original parts!

 

Roger

Well the nice thing about drop in replacement parts is you can keep the OEM ones for historic restoration if desired when sold or passed on and still enjoy improved sound without altering your cabinet. I have a set of super pristine Heresy 1's I am going to turn into Super Heresys but the OEM back panel with the original owner papers still attached and the OEM Type E crossover with new caps and the woofers and tweeters will be preserved and go with the box when it sells. You can have your cake and eat it to if you wish.

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Wow.  Rosewood is rare and expensive.

 

I would keep everything as "stock" or "Klipsch" as possible -- save perhaps repairs.

 

Bob Crites will replace the diaphragms. https://critesspeakers.com/electro-voice-ev-t-35-and-t.html  The K-77 is  rebranded K-77.

 

K-77's come on the market very frequently.  Watch out for ones with burnt out diaphragms.  This occures because the tweeter is the most delicate of the three units.

 

I would not open the housing for the woofer unless you know you have to replace it.  When test listening make sure to do left and right, one at a time. Balance control will do this if you have one.  I got fooled once.  

 

 

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I’m not taking on any work right now. I’m burned out. 
 

Take @JohnA ‘s advice and loosen and tighten all of screws on the barrier strips on the network. After 20 years in storage, it’s highly likely that this is where the problem lies. 

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11 minutes ago, Deang said:

I’m not taking on any work right now. I’m burned out. 
 

Take @JohnA ‘s advice and loosen and tighten all of screws on the barrier strips on the network. After 20 years in storage, it’s highly likely that this is where the problem lies. 

Yup and while you are at it check all the driver screws, replace the horn gasket and make sure if you have spade end connectors they are tight and not loose.

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They wouldn't readily tighten any more?  Or are you saying you've already done the loosen-wiggle-re-tighten process?  The latter is, of course, what should be done at this time, and is usually a workable shortcut for disassembly-cleaning-reassembly.  Just because the connections are still "tight" doesn't mean there's no corrosion inside (which can actually make them sticky so they feel tight).  That process should be undertaken prior to spending any other money or undertaking any other endeavors. 

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  • 1 month later...

Many thanks to everyone for the tips and recommendations! I followed all of them and came to the conclusion that both K-77M's are bad. I have also been talking with Jim Hunter at the Museum. It's been a lot of fun trading old stories and memories of the "old days". He was particularly interested in my Scripto cigarette lighter that says on one side, "Stolen From Paul Klipsch" and on the other side, "THE AURAL DIFFERENCE BETWEEN $200 AND $500 AMPLIFIERS IS ALMOST NEGLIGIBLE. THE DIFFERENCE BETWEEN SPEAKERS EXHIBITING THE SAME PRICE RATIO IS STARTLING". (signed) J. Figby Blotz.

 

A couple of you wanted to see photos, but these are big files so I'll do my best to send them in a couple of posts7438B265-F12A-4B2D-AF06-8C7E8CAB323B_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.e006d031a7a3a2ecb9b2a829125cc322.jpegF61B2EC5-DCEB-4725-8071-590085BBB1AE_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.312d903894a8b4d4123874b5d9c15ab0.jpegDBC1C127-2E6A-4430-9944-D6CD50B6DB30_1_105_c.thumb.jpeg.bf352b489ccc3381a13caeda8ae54c41.jpeg

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