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Klipsch 15” subwoofer


Don L
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  • 2 weeks later...

Don,

 

If the volume isn't high enough it wont sense to turn on.  Anything below 40 on my Marantz wont signal it on.  At low volume but you still want the sub you may have to manually switch it to on.  Also, there are 3 different points for the power switch.  Play around with it and see which suits you best.

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  • 2 weeks later...

When listening to talk radio, you may notice that a woman’s voice often won’t trigger a subwoofer to turn on, but when a man speaks, it clicks on.  The turn-on circuit’s threshold, on my subs at least, seems to be somewhere in between both vocal ranges.

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First, tell us the model # if your Klipsch subwoofer.     

 Sounds like amplifier is bad. 

Options:

(1) get amp repaired, this will probably be least expensive, or only option.

(2) buy a new replacement amplifier (more expensive) from Klipsch, if available.

(3) buy a separate component amplifier, probably the most expensive, but possibly the most reliable option depending on the amplifier you use. 

Edited by Ron DB
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On 4/6/2020 at 7:17 PM, Don L said:

My Klipsch 15” Subwoofer will not turn on. By unplugging the electric cord and plugging back in it turns on and works. The only way. Any suggestions for repair!?

take out the amp  , pull out the wiring of  the subwoofer speaker  ,  plug a 2 wconnector wire  into an external amp and test , if the speaker responds , your sub-amp is defective

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This is a well known issue with those amps, tons of them do the exact same thing.  If it's under warranty just make a ticket at support.klipschgroupinc.com and they will get you a new one.  Supposedly the new ones have a resistor mod, they added a 10 ohm resistor somewhere in the amp which supposedly fixes this.  I have not seen this happen in the new SPL-150 amps, only the original R-115SW.  

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6 hours ago, inMotionGraphics said:

 

Why do you say that if you don't mind me asking? I have my entire home theater plugged into surge protected power strips, including my subs.

It's normally stated in the owners manual.   They want them plugged directly into the wall due to how much current they can draw.

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3 hours ago, CECAA850 said:

It's normally stated in the owners manual.   They want them plugged directly into the wall due to how much current they can draw.

 

Ah, I see... thanks for clarifying this. It might be different for us here in South Africa where we have 220v power, which would explain why I haven't seen any mention of this before... 🙂

 

Update: Out of interest, I checked the documentation that came with my SPL-150, and they do indeed mention adapters, however not in a way that would impact the performance of the subwoofer: "The use of AC plug adapters is cautioned because it can allow the product to be plugged into voltages in which the product was not designed to operate."

 

I think they're referring to adapters like USA to UK or South Africa for example, where the mains voltages can be different from country to country. So this wouldn't apply to the strip adapter that you're using within your own country in my opinion, as you know the voltage of your mains and it should match the voltage setting at the back of the sub.

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This is a well known issue with those amps, tons of them do the exact same thing.  If it's under warranty just make a ticket at support.klipschgroupinc.com and they will get you a new one.  Supposedly the new ones have a resistor mod, they added a 10 ohm resistor somewhere in the amp which supposedly fixes this.  I have not seen this happen in the new SPL-150 amps, only the original R-115SW.  

I have 4 of these and I went through amps like water for my 3 until the final revision which have held up nicely over 2 2 1/2 years. Never got that long before the amp would pop or shut itself off etc. I was buying from Fry’s electronics so they probably always had the old amps. Not sure. The most recent one I had bought was 5/2019 and needed a new amp since it started popping. Been golden since. It was a really bad experience and stressful not knowing what was going on as I wasn’t on the forums. All replacements were free, even out of the warranty after 2 years of owning them. I was never denied and sent a replacement but they were nearly always back ordered.


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  • 2 weeks later...
On 5/21/2020 at 12:07 AM, inMotionGraphics said:

 

Why do you say that if you don't mind me asking? I have my entire home theater plugged into surge protected power strips, including my subs.

 

Because power strips typically revolve around metal oxide varistors (MOV's) that cost about a buck fiddy and choke down the current.  If you want your subs to be surge protected, you gotta pony up the money and get something like a SurgeX or Brick Wall that's based on series-mode and not MOV's.  

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On 5/21/2020 at 1:07 AM, inMotionGraphics said:

 

Why do you say that if you don't mind me asking? I have my entire home theater plugged into surge protected power strips, including my subs.

what is  the  brand and model -  even better a picture

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6 hours ago, RandyH said:

what is  the  brand and model -  even better a picture

 

I use a local South African manufacturer for all my surge plugs, but they are quite reputable. This is the exact surge multiplug strip that I have my home theater gear plugged into, including my subs:

 

Multiplug High Surge Protected 12 Way: https://www.ellies.co.za/product/multiplug-high-surge-protected-12-way/

 

fbwp5

Update: I should also mention that we have 240V here, so power/current etc has never been an issue for me with any of my systems. 

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14 hours ago, inMotionGraphics said:

Update: I should also mention that we have 240V here, so power/current etc has never been an issue for me with any of my systems. 

Looks like it's good for roughly 15A of current?  That seems pretty light for an entire HT.

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