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Alexander

Roxul Rockboard 60 - will it work/hold up?

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Looking to add a bit of acoustic room treatment to a 16' x 18' living room. Can Roxul Rockboard 60 be used with just a fabric covering or will it require some form of frame to hold it together? The size I am thinking would be 2' x 4' panels.

 

With a vaulted ceiling that starts at 8' up to 11.5' at the peak. The ceiling angle is perpendicular to the sound source wall. So should I also consider adding any panels on the opposing wall above the ~8' high mark? And yes the picture will be removed :)

 

walla.JPG

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Having been through this process myself, I would say yes, it would be advisable to build frames so you can pull the acoustically transparent material tight around it and place the rockwool inside the frames... here are a few photos of my process in case it helps.

 

Note: I also added some "Flexible Noise Barrier" (mass loaded vinyl) as a backing on some of mine that were  going in front of glass windows to try and stop some of the sound passing through the windows... 🙂

 

3c-Door-Frames-Bevel.jpg.897b3900116ce908ea15ad2af03a63e6.jpg

 

3d-Door-and-Window-Frames.jpg.c6e356a919154feafec45dcf5f972509.jpg

 

4-Flexible-Noise-Barrier-Backing.jpg.a255122e4c2abb631d487433b12d585a.jpg 

 

5-Acoustic-Dampening-Rockwool.jpg.ff89592888f5763d68f75de16737f417.jpg

 

7-Window-Panel-Acoustic-Dampening-Filler.thumb.jpg.012ee43d04cf5694edf39155997ee36c.jpg

 

8-Cutting-Acoustically-Transparent-Material-for-Window-Panel.jpg.ab3116a634c47bbae1fc4e19cb5da726.jpg

 

10-Large-Window-Panel-Complete.thumb.jpg.625597b8ce72a605226d96cd01072523.jpg

 

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Thanks Alexander, I appreciate that. And yes, the ATS acoustics panels will be great if you don't want to make them yourself. Guilford of Maine Fabric does seem like the fabric of choice for acoustically transparent material in the USA, so you can't go wrong with that option. 

 

Another company that I hear good things about from the pros, is GIK acoustics: https://www.gikacoustics.com/product-category/acoustic-panels/, but they are probably more expensive than the ATS panels.

 

Let us know what you decide and post photos with the final results... 🙂

 

PS: If anyone is wondering why some of my frames are on 25mm thick instead of the recommended minimum of 50mm, that's because those ones are hanging on my door and covering glass windows on the door, along with the Flexible noise barrier backing, so they had to be thin enough and tapered so the door could open wide enough without jamming the panels against the wall. Always make your broadband panels are at least 50mm thick, but closer to 100mm if practical would be even better.

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When Inmade mine I found out that the redwood 1x4s were much lighter than the pine 1x4s..so I used them for my ceiling panels.

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7 hours ago, Randyh said:

to make sound insulation thick  panels  you can  re-use large office sectional  dividers- these are  available in all sizes at  any liquidation office store ,and they always have the odd single or 2 panels in top shape  -framed - insulated and pleated fabric   -no need to  reframe unless you want to add a special touch  -they will do a lot better job at sound  insulation as they are designed to cut noise  on 2 sides , and way better that Roxul Rockboard  or expensive foam insulation  -but they will be thicker  and perfectly square   -

 

The OP is asking about acoustic treatments using Rockwool, so this would imply that he is wanting sound absorption panels, and isn't concerned with sound insulation. Sound insulation is a whole different beast, although I'm not familiar with these sound insulation office panels you are referring to, so if they have sound absorption properties like rockwool etc, then they may well be relevant. But generally in my experience, sound absorption panels don't help with sound insulation, unless you add some kind of noise barrier to the them like the Flexible Noise Barrier (mass loaded vinyl) that I put on the back of some of mine. 

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I believe the office panels are made with Owens Corning compressed fiberglass. I prefer not to mess with fiberglass and went with the Roxul Rockwool for my last HT, and will be using it for the new HT too. As far as the office panels being better I doubt it very much, as testing I have seen posted shows the Roxul as being as good as the Owen's Corning without the hazrd of Fiberglass.

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I used OC703 myself. Sourced them from a insulation distribution company. Had to set up a business account with them and bought it by the case, but no big deal. You are always going to do better using plywood for your frames, unless you are trying to use up some spare materials you already have around. That is IF you have access to a table saw or track saw. I also went with G of M FR701 for the cloth. Buy it direct. Shipping costs is what drove me to build my own. Works out to half price when doing it DIY over cheapest alternatives out there before shipping. Results are the same though.

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We love it..of course we are now self Quarantined. Hopefully I will not catch Corona, and will be able to enjoy many more years of my retirement.

 

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On 4/11/2020 at 6:40 PM, Negatron said:

When I made mine I found out that the redwood 1x4s were much lighter than the pine 1x4s..so I used them for my ceiling panels.

 

Good info. Total weight is an important factor when hanging things on the wall or ceiling. 

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Good info. Total weight is an important factor when hanging things on the wall or ceiling. 
Another thing... I used a combo of j hooks and loops to hang them from the ceiling. By going this way it gives a gap to the ceiling and also makes it easy to remove or move if desired.

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There is a big difference between the compressed and bonded "rigid" fiberglass panels used for acoustic purposes, and the "loose" fiberglass batts intended for wall and attic thermal insulation. With the good acoustic fiberglass panels, the fibers are bound together and don't dissipate into the air. High quality HVAC sheetmetal ductwork is sometimes lined with these fiberglass panels to reduce noise transmission from room to room and/or to reduce fan noise, as well as its thermal properties.

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On 4/9/2020 at 1:18 PM, Alexander said:

Can Roxul Rockboard 60 be used

 

I have not used any Rockboard 60 yet, but would like to put it on my shopping list. It should work great, considering my experience with ROXUL acoustic panels.

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I used r60, and r80 Roxul in my last home theater...worked fine.

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On 4/9/2020 at 6:10 PM, inMotionGraphics said:

Having been through this process myself, I would say yes, it would be advisable to build frames so you can pull the acoustically transparent material tight around it and place the rockwool inside the frames... here are a few photos of my process in case it helps.

 

Note: I also added some "Flexible Noise Barrier" (mass loaded vinyl) as a backing on some of mine that were  going in front of glass windows to try and stop some of the sound passing through the windows... 🙂

 

3c-Door-Frames-Bevel.jpg.897b3900116ce908ea15ad2af03a63e6.jpg

 

3d-Door-and-Window-Frames.jpg.c6e356a919154feafec45dcf5f972509.jpg

 

4-Flexible-Noise-Barrier-Backing.jpg.a255122e4c2abb631d487433b12d585a.jpg 

 

5-Acoustic-Dampening-Rockwool.jpg.ff89592888f5763d68f75de16737f417.jpg

 

7-Window-Panel-Acoustic-Dampening-Filler.thumb.jpg.012ee43d04cf5694edf39155997ee36c.jpg

 

8-Cutting-Acoustically-Transparent-Material-for-Window-Panel.jpg.ab3116a634c47bbae1fc4e19cb5da726.jpg

 

10-Large-Window-Panel-Complete.thumb.jpg.625597b8ce72a605226d96cd01072523.jpg

 

Interesting idea with the vinyl, I have a window where it could be useful. So thick vinyl tighly staped and what looks like vinyl side towards window?

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