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Vintage system set up.


erichjensen

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I recently inherited some vintage components (see image) that I'd like to set up with a pair of K-horns.

My understanding is that either of those amps would be fine but my question is can I use both the MC240 and the pair if MC30s to possibly bi-amp the K-horns. Maybe active crossovers?

The question might be why and the answer is just to utilize them both just for the aesthetic *coolness factor*. The more glow the better.

Any and all insights would be appreciated.

 

 

 

Vintage system.jpg

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That looks pretty cool indeed. 

Bi-amping is always fun, but don't bother unless you combine it with an active crossover. 

Please note on the amps (and you probably already know this), they need to be very quiet ones (no hiss or hum). Will yours be in good order?

 

Good luck & it looks like a fun project,

-Tom

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All time great components...I own the same, (as well as an MX-110Z) so I can appreciate your system.

 

First, don't bother to bi-amp, IMHO.

 

Second, simply get a unit where you can switch between your amps, still utilizing the MX-110, so that you can discern the differences between the two perhaps for different types of music, and enjoy both.....

 

I can't possibly say whether I prefer the MC30s or the MC240 as they are both equally terrific in slightly different ways......

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And don’t forget about that TD-124 table - the best turntable ever made in my opinion.  You’ll need a different tonearm, however!!

 

Sell the MC-240 and use the money for a new arm and cartridge for the table. SME 3009 and an Ortofon SPU should be an option with the cash you’ll clear on the 240.

 

Youll need an early 3009 with the detachable headshell and the sliding counterweight.  You will never regret it! 

 

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That’s even better - a 3012. Do you have the arm board for the TD-124?  If you don’t they are easy to find on ebay.

 

Now you just need an ortofon SPU!! If you don’t want to spring for a step-up transformer then  look for an SPU-GT that has the transformer in the head shell. There’s a used one on ebay from Japan for $800- that’s a good deal!  

 

Go for it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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The thorens is one of the best turntables ever. No belt drive can compete with an idler drive - if set up and updated appropriately. I am a big fan of idler drive. So if ou can get that beast set up properly with new rubber ( if it needs it) etc - Then you are in heaven with the MC30s and the preamp. You are set!

 

J

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I’m not of the opinion that elliptical is better than conical- but It’s a fair observation.  I play mostly 1950s and 60s LPs and I think the conical is way more quiet and forgiving and I don’t hear any loss in detail. Maybe if you’re spinning new records the elliptical would be a better choice.  In any case , the SPU is the pinnacle!!!! 

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I had a TD124 and also a TD125 in the early '70s both with SME arms. 

 

I loved that the instruction booklet for the SME cautioned, "Do not take it to pieces!"  That was equaled only by the Luxman manual that said it had low feedback, "To avoid evil effect."

 

My first good moving coil (with an Ortofon arm without anti-skate) was an SPU, I think.  There was a slightly later one with the letter "L" in it (for "Light") that sounded even more open, when on an SME.

 

Is it possible that we are losing pride in craftsmanship, or am I just getting old and cranky?

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5 hours ago, garyrc said:

 

Is it possible that we are losing pride in craftsmanship, or am I just getting old and cranky?

Yes and yes, but @Dave A   is doing what he can so I can say no to the first part. As to the second part, I think old and cranky comes with the territory.

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On 4/23/2020 at 2:12 PM, PrestonTom said:

That looks pretty cool indeed. 

Bi-amping is always fun, but don't bother unless you combine it with an active crossover. 

Please note on the amps (and you probably already know this), they need to be very quiet ones (no hiss or hum). Will yours be in good order?

 

Good luck & it looks like a fun project,

-Tom

 

Tom,

I have read your posts for years and have always respected your opinions.  I must disagree with this one and run the "fools bi-amp". 

Use two bridged Luxman M -117's  (refurbish) on the bottom through an ESN circuit for the LF. 

And two McIntosh 100's on the top.  I switched the setup around  and listened for mouths. 

The passive Bi-amp sounds much better that the other configurations. 

Regards,

tc

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I am glad you are hearing a benefit in your configuration. BTW, I never used the phrase "fool's bi-amp ..." .

 

Please keep mind that if you divide the signal ahead of the amplifier(s) (around 400-700 Hz), then you have increased the head room of each amplifier by about 3dB (as though the amplifier had twice the wattage). When doing this, you can use your favorite low watt amp (5-20 watt for example) for the mid/tweeter and a moderate size amp for the bass bins (say 25 - 50 watts) and get plenty of power without coming close to clipping.  Otherwise, the amplifier is providing gain across the entire signal's bandwidth (with possible clipping) and then losing half of it to the speaker's crossover (presumably as heat). 

 

Additionally, in an active setup you can then get the benefits of time alignment. Over the years I have become a big fan of that feature. 

 

We have no argument, just a different view,

-Tom

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