Rexxis Posted May 11, 2020 Share Posted May 11, 2020 So i just picked up a pair of consecutive serial number Heresy I's and am excited to say the least. They are not in mint condition and I would like to do what I can to get them looking and sounding as best as possible. Neither one has the paper labels on the back anymore. From what I have read, the process for restoring the wood can be different based on what the cabinets are made from. I am hoping someone can help me identify them. I know I'm never getting the labels back, but in situations with missing labels, is there a common practice? Do people create some kind of new label just so that the information is back with the cabinets or no? I am excited to open them up so we can see what and if anything has been done to them but I have yet to do so because I wanted to post here beforehand, is there anything I need to know before I open them up? Link to gallery with lots of pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/7RB6niX?fbclid=IwAR1EVeHZ4DTSnNFtMrtzcDUhq5BWoMldxBO3MrD6iie7cHeanq_ac4zg16c 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 15 hours ago, Rexxis said: So i just picked up a pair of consecutive serial number Heresy I's and am excited to say the least. They are not in mint condition and I would like to do what I can to get them looking and sounding as best as possible. Neither one has the paper labels on the back anymore. From what I have read, the process for restoring the wood can be different based on what the cabinets are made from. I am hoping someone can help me identify them. I know I'm never getting the labels back, but in situations with missing labels, is there a common practice? Do people create some kind of new label just so that the information is back with the cabinets or no? I am excited to open them up so we can see what and if anything has been done to them but I have yet to do so because I wanted to post here beforehand, is there anything I need to know before I open them up? Link to gallery with lots of pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/7RB6niX?fbclid=IwAR1EVeHZ4DTSnNFtMrtzcDUhq5BWoMldxBO3MrD6iie7cHeanq_ac4zg16c no need for labels the serial nos are engraved in the back ----WHO ---------they are not bad for the age and this is real plywood with a walnut veneer , versus MDF ======open the backs -----you might have a K22-K55V-K77M ----------or they might be k22-k55V -K77 round -----and E networks in either version ------ 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 12 hours ago, Rexxis said: Is there anything I need to know before I open them up? Clockwise tightens, counterclockwise loosens. Welcome. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rexxis Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) Hahaha, alright then, I'll open them up tonight and post pics. How did you determine the finish from the serial number? I was wondering if that was possible. So, Howard's restore-a-finish in walnut with quad-zero steel wool and then feed and wax forthcoming. 👍 Edited May 12, 2020 by Rexxis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willland Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 I would say those are walnut oil not oak. Congrats on the acquisition. A good wipe down first and use a brown wood magic marker to touch up the bare spots. If definitely an oil finish, re-oil lightly. Bill Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 This is what I did late last year and earlier this year when I picked up two different pair of Heresy speakers, not that every thing I did is correct. Just some pictures to see before and after of age and condition challenged speakers. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 Welcome. No real need for labels. The "T" in the stamped serial numbers indicate a 1979 manufacture date. They are walnut oil, not oak. I would sand all surfaces lightly, (with the grain), being sure to thoroughly remove all dust. Then wipe down with mineral spirits and let dry. Wipe off again with a clean dry cloth. Then apply Watco (light, medium, dark) Danish oil. You can do several coats. Personally, I have gotten away from Howard's and have found that the Feed N Wax attracts dust. Others may have a different opinion. For the grills, use this: https://www.amazon.com/Woolite-Carpet-Upholstery-Cleaner-Piece/dp/B073WTF49X/ref=sr_1_12?crid=2UBGPWY26H580&dchild=1&keywords=upholstery+cleaner&qid=1589287820&s=hi&sprefix=upholstery+%2Ctools%2C177&sr=1-12 For the grill badges (and to keep them original), you'll need to put out a "Want to Buy" ad here and other forums. You can find them on fleabay, but they are typically very overpriced. Looking forward to the interior photos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rexxis Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 (edited) Alright, after more reading, I cancelled my order of Howard's products. After reading Gary Anderson's post abt using boiled linseed oil, I am highly interested in that. Stunning color and just phenomenal looking results. I can get the oil locally from HD but will just any ol' boiled linseed oil work? Where can I find more information on this process? Also, I'd be interested in hearing some advice on sanding. I've seen some people saying to sand with the grain using 0000 steel wool but I think Gary said he used an orbital DA sander with 150 grit(?) which I have access to. Would be open to any advice here. Edited May 12, 2020 by Rexxis Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rexxis Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 Can somebody link me to the correct badge style just so I can see what I am looking for? What words should I be using to reference the correct ones? I am seeing lots on fleabay for around $10 which doesn't seem bad to me.. but are they correct? https://www.ebay.com/itm/174029820670 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 here is a video a 1979 Heresy - raw birch HBR ------hopefully what you see in this video is what you will see inside your own speakers - Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 6 minutes ago, Rexxis said: I am seeing lots on fleabay for around $10 which doesn't seem bad to me.. but are they correct? https://www.ebay.com/itm/174029820670 these are aluminium reproductions ----the originals are copper , - 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 13 minutes ago, Rexxis said: Alright, after more reading, I cancelled my order of Howard's products. After reading Gary Anderson's post abt using boiled linseed oil, I am highly interested in that. Stunning color and just phenomenal looking results. I can get the oil locally from HD but will just any ol' boiled linseed oil work? Where can I find more information on this process? Also, I'd be interested in hearing some advice on sanding. I've seen some people saying to sand with the grain using 0000 steel wool but I think Gary said he used an orbital DA sander with 150 grit(?) which I have access to. Would be open to any advice here. Gary is a real good carpenter , watch his threads and you will learn a lot 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MC39693 Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 Before you open them up, have a good listen to see if you hear any problems or major difference between the two. If yes, note which speaker and which audio range, this may help in trouble shooting later. If not, 1) open the back and remove the input wires from the crossover terminal block. Be sure to keep all parts together as original. If you want to change the input terminal block, eg to 5 way posts you can update the input cable at the same time. 2) Use a marker and mark an up arrow At 12 o’clock on the woofer frame. When you put it back, rotate the arrow to 6 o’clock. There’s likely 4 screws. You can buy more and put them in when you put the woofer back. Be careful cleaning dust off the cone. Wipe off the metal. Check the connections and if any issues decide if you can/want to re-flow some solder. If you are willing/able you can change this cable too. Not necessary if you have no issues, just up to you. 3) Remove mid horn and driver, carefully clean all surfaces, and inspect connections, change cable if you want. 4) Same for tweeter. 5) Remove the E crossover. It should have two tall “oil can” metal capacitors. Check for leaks. If no leaks and no audio issues in your listening test then you have a choice either leave alone or update. Many discussions on the forums re capacitors. They don’t need to be expensive and if you solder, piece of cake! 6) Clean the interior. Fill all seams either caulking or good wood glue. You can decide if you want to line with absorption material, and/or add cabinet bracing, lots of discussion on the forum. 7) Put it all back together and repeat listening tests. If all is well, repeat steps for second speaker. As noted already, lots of help re the exterior cabinet work you can do. Just don’t get carried away with any sanding, remember these have veneer. Good luck and enjoy your Klipsch. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lbk Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 2 hours ago, Rexxis said: Alright, after more reading, I cancelled my order of Howard's products. After reading Gary Anderson's post abt using boiled linseed oil, I am highly interested in that. Stunning color and just phenomenal looking results. I can get the oil locally from HD but will just any ol' boiled linseed oil work? Where can I find more information on this process? Also, I'd be interested in hearing some advice on sanding. I've seen some people saying to sand with the grain using 0000 steel wool but I think Gary said he used an orbital DA sander with 150 grit(?) which I have access to. Would be open to any advice here. Personal I have bad luck with orbital sanders, every time I used one they left swirl marks on project. I sand by hand with grain or on tough projects a belt sander. Jim, above has some good advice. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jimjimbo Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 150 grit is pretty heavy. I'd be careful with that, or go to a finer grit. I have always used an orbital sander with light pressure, again, with the grain. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rexxis Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 1 hour ago, jimjimbo said: 150 grit is pretty heavy. I'd be careful with that, or go to a finer grit. I have always used an orbital sander with light pressure, again, with the grain. I was thinking about that. 150 seemed heavy to me as well. After re-reading, Gary mentioned 150 just to flush the new veneer with the sides of the rest of the cab. I think going lighter is definitely a good call. I just realized I somehow missed Gary's link to his linseed application and cap job for his H-700s. Just read it and it answered many of my questions. I plan on going with whatever boiled linseed oil I can find at the local HD. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rexxis Posted May 12, 2020 Author Share Posted May 12, 2020 Interior pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/5kxP7ie - Type E crossovers - K-22-EF Subwoofers - K-55V Drivers - K-77 Tweeters It looks like everything is in fantastic condition to me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted May 12, 2020 Share Posted May 12, 2020 11 minutes ago, Rexxis said: Interior pics: https://imgur.com/gallery/5kxP7ie - Type E crossovers - K-22-EF Subwoofers - K-55V Drivers - K-77 Tweeters It looks like everything is in fantastic condition to me. a great combination the K22EF woofers are very well made ------beautiful finish -------the K77 Round are the Alnico ---------some prefer the M ----Mud magnet ----------but I prefer the Alnico --------the K55V - FANTASTIC ----nice speakers -----excellent sound , these are costly drivers to replace --- 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
garyeanderson Posted May 13, 2020 Share Posted May 13, 2020 17 hours ago, jimjimbo said: 150 grit is pretty heavy. I'd be careful with that, or go to a finer grit. I have always used an orbital sander with light pressure, again, with the grain. My 150 grit is very well used.' More of a real world 180-220 and I don't let the DA rest, I probably move the sander quite fast with the grain at a speed of a foot or more per second. The sander is only sanding for 5 to 10 seconds for a Heresy top before stopping to inspect Much of this sanding is to give the surface a uniform, free from old finish surface. Lite scratches I try to lessen the visual impact (some even come out), deeper digs I leave. Every defect needs to be looked at to decide if its to be fixed or hidden. As far as the boiled linseed oil goes, be very very careful with rags soaked in it, I heard today that a house 3 towns north of me had a "spontaneous combustion" fire that caused $75k in damages. I got the last quart at HD, before that I was using what my father had gotten at the transfer station "take it or leave it" area. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Rexxis Posted May 13, 2020 Author Share Posted May 13, 2020 Thanks for your response Gary. I bought a DA last night and some 220 grit pads. The speed advice and each defect at a time advice is gladly heard, thank you! I spent the last half of my evening watching lots of videos about proper DA sanding and boiled linseed application videos. I learned alot and I feel like I am ready to move forward. Boy, you aren't kidding about the fire hazard associated with boiled linseed oil. The rags DEFINITELY WILL spontaneously combust if given the right settings. Here is a great video on just that. 😲 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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