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NotThisChris

Altec 511b inside of a Cornwall.

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if you are lacking treble, you can put this on your Horn driver B&C DE250 = 1 capacitor from 1 to 0.5µF (you can even try to go down to 2µF) and a resistance in parallel of 1 or 2 or 3 ohms or even more, some goes up to 6 or 7 ohms. You have understood that the values of the components are to be refined according to your tastes.

 

4hjk.jpg

 

! Attention, to refine it will then be necessary to adjust the general level of DE250 on the active filter

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4 hours ago, mustang_flht said:

if you are lacking treble, you can put this on your Horn driver B&C DE250 = 1 capacitor from 1 to 0.5µF (you can even try to go down to 2µF) and a resistance in parallel of 1 or 2 or 3 ohms or even more, some goes up to 6 or 7 ohms. You have understood that the values of the components are to be refined according to your tastes.

 

4hjk.jpg

 

! Attention, to refine it will then be necessary to adjust the general level of DE250 on the active filter

Thank you for the reply and information. I’m guessing this boosts the upper high frequencies without making the midrange unbearable? This will come in handy now that I have moved the speakers out of the room and into the living room. I have those resistors and capacitors to play with, maybe tonight I will mess with it. 

 

They are 90 percent done. I still need to build a back cover for the Compression driver. When I settle on crossover settings, I may look into converting them into passive but that’s a long ways away. 27DFDC5A-7D53-4E3C-9C7F-71150C747069.thumb.jpeg.33b114b6108957456ca76572fa97ff75.jpeg

8ECA7E43-E0F0-4091-9BFB-66CB60A0925B.thumb.jpeg.3772f65de7a418ec6dda8854dfd49122.jpeg

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Altec 811b and 511b have a very well known and much documented history of ringing inherent to the horn design itself which is virtually impossible to eliminate. This dates back decades and decades and is all over the internet if you care to search for it. You name it and it has been tried to eliminate the ring. It is still for the most part a satisfying horn to listen to so as long the ring does not get under your skin and some guys are fine with it life is good. I only mention it so you can better decide to what length you will choose to work with it as a project. There are better horns with wider bandwidth available. In the seventies I badly wanted a two way Altec with the 511b horn but by the 80's I had totally lost interest in the horn. If the price is right and you are happy then no worries.

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25 minutes ago, moray james said:

Altec 811b and 511b have a very well known and much documented history of ringing inherent to the horn design itself which is virtually impossible to eliminate. This dates back decades and decades and is all over the internet if you care to search for it. You name it and it has been tried to eliminate the ring. It is still for the most part a satisfying horn to listen to so as long the ring does not get under your skin and some guys are fine with it life is good. I only mention it so you can better decide to what length you will choose to work with it as a project. There are better horns with wider bandwidth available. In the seventies I badly wanted a two way Altec with the 511b horn but by the 80's I had totally lost interest in the horn. If the price is right and you are happy then no worries.

Not to imply I have a magic cure, I learned they rang when my daughter snuck up behind the cabinet and shouted through the horn. 
 

Most of the ring went away when I used a foam seal around the mounting plate of the horn to speaker cab. The rest went away when I slapped some plumbers putty on top of the horn. BUT, I only push a watt through them, and usually half volume. At full volume they still ring. 🙃


I am happy but I’m a tinkerer so I’m never truly happy. The whole concept was to build stuff with the hand I’ve been dealt. I expected they would sound like butt, but they have surpassed my expectations and then some. Now it’s just tweaking and learning to have the knowledge someday to build my own set, maybe transfer the speakers to not so damaged cabinets. 

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3 hours ago, NotThisChris said:

Not to imply I have a magic cure, I learned they rang when my daughter snuck up behind the cabinet and shouted through the horn. 
 

Most of the ring went away when I used a foam seal around the mounting plate of the horn to speaker cab. The rest went away when I slapped some plumbers putty on top of the horn. BUT, I only push a watt through them, and usually half volume. At full volume they still ring. 🙃


I am happy but I’m a tinkerer so I’m never truly happy. The whole concept was to build stuff with the hand I’ve been dealt. I expected they would sound like butt, but they have surpassed my expectations and then some. Now it’s just tweaking and learning to have the knowledge someday to build my own set, maybe transfer the speakers to not so damaged cabinets. 

I understand your situation. You know lots of guys take rough cabinets and re finish them with 1/4", 3/8" or even 1/2" pre veneered plywood. Yields a perfect veneer job and stiffens the cabinet at the same time. Enjoy your projects and have fun.

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14 hours ago, moray james said:

I understand your situation. You know lots of guys take rough cabinets and re finish them with 1/4", 3/8" or even 1/2" pre veneered plywood. Yields a perfect veneer job and stiffens the cabinet at the same time. Enjoy your projects and have fun.

And most large cabinets can benefit from it.

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19 hours ago, NotThisChris said:

Not to imply I have a magic cure, I learned they rang when my daughter snuck up behind the cabinet and shouted through the horn. 
 

Most of the ring went away when I used a foam seal around the mounting plate of the horn to speaker cab. The rest went away when I slapped some plumbers putty on top of the horn. BUT, I only push a watt through them, and usually half volume. At full volume they still ring. 🙃


I am happy but I’m a tinkerer so I’m never truly happy. The whole concept was to build stuff with the hand I’ve been dealt. I expected they would sound like butt, but they have surpassed my expectations and then some. Now it’s just tweaking and learning to have the knowledge someday to build my own set, maybe transfer the speakers to not so damaged cabinets. 

I just ordered this for the OS bell of my 811s. All my searching, most Altec guys recommend this, & you only need to do either the top or bottom.

An supposedly it doesn't dry out!

Sargent Art Plastilina Modeling Clay, 5-Pound

 

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22 hours ago, NotThisChris said:

Thank you for the reply and information. I’m guessing this boosts the upper high frequencies without making the midrange unbearable? This will come in handy now that I have moved the speakers out of the room and into the living room. I have those resistors and capacitors to play with, maybe tonight I will mess with it. 

 

They are 90 percent done. I still need to build a back cover for the Compression driver. When I settle on crossover settings, I may look into converting them into passive but that’s a long ways away. 

 

So you played?

 

😃

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Regarding horn ringing; I have also heard of this treatment...I am in a similar situation with 511b's...can someone post a picture of how it is applied? 

 

I think I get it, but as I understand it you just need to cover the "lips" that extend beyond the flange?

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20 minutes ago, hanksjim1 said:

Regarding horn ringing; I have also heard of this treatment...I am in a similar situation with 511b's...can someone post a picture of how it is applied? 

 

I think I get it, but as I understand it you just need to cover the "lips" that extend beyond the flange?

From what I read; is to fill the cavity & only top or bottom. No need to do both.

Just waiting for the delivery. 

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While you are using an active crossover, to be better optimized, the woofer output should be delayed to match the tweeter at the crossover frequency.  There will be a smearing as both components play back the same frequencies at different times. The original horn, being shorter wouldn't be as noticeable, but the time differences become more obvious as the frequency goes up.

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Just finished;

 

20200526_141044.jpg

 

20200517_081242.thumb.jpg.6e27b27cf685196439b52107fa9f7855.jpg

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5 hours ago, mustang_flht said:

So you played?

 

😃

Not yet :( I’ve been busy with work. Tonight for sure. 
 

4 hours ago, Marvel said:

While you are using an active crossover, to be better optimized, the woofer output should be delayed to match the tweeter at the crossover frequency.  There will be a smearing as both components play back the same frequencies at different times. The original horn, being shorter wouldn't be as noticeable, but the time differences become more obvious as the frequency goes up.


How do I accomplish this? Via a stand alone time delay device or do I need a better crossover? What would you suggest?

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20 minutes ago, NotThisChris said:

Not yet :( I’ve been busy with work. Tonight for sure. 
 


How do I accomplish this? Via a stand alone time delay device or do I need a better crossover? What would you suggest?

Look into this,Photo of R100T2 attenuator front

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6 hours ago, KROCK said:

Look into this,Photo of R100T2 attenuator front

 

That is an attenuator and not a delay.

 

Most folks on here who do active crossovers delays and eq are using digital crossovers. Again, most are using them with systems that have horn loaded bass, which means they delay the high end, not the low end.  While not super expensive (you are already using separate amps for the woofer and the compression driver), you go with a digital crossover and you can do eq, phase correction and time alignment. It's like night and day.  @Chris A can point you in the right direction.

 

Bruce

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Just a mild update. 
 

I’ve been sitting on my tush enjoying what I got so far. I love them. Crossover settings  are currently 700hz, and woofers phase Inverted only because I think I reversed the transformer leads on my 6AV5 amp. (I built them both). 

 

I tried the resistor capacitor combo for treble but ultimately decided that I will be shelling out more dough for a minidsp 2x4. I love the shear amount of customization, minimal footprint, and it sort of matches my Bluesound Node 2i. Nothing wrong with my DBX unit other than it matches nothing I own and it’s basic. 
 

I still have no answer for the rear covers for the horns. And by that, I mean I haven’t applied any answers given or applied myself at all there. My focus for now is a friends amplifier that needs to start working. 440710B0-3B3F-4FF2-AFB0-A22A0C1E5218.jpeg.f3aa7c3e1fe6d6b84d83250f0bf625f1.jpeg

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From someone who has gone down this road....save your money and buy the Xilica 4080, you will end up there eventually anyways.

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Posted (edited)

Another update. 
 

I found a pair of Canton Ergo 900’s and Klipsch Heresys at Goodwill for about 60 bucks total. I’m now focused on these because I legitimately can’t believe I stumbled upon this. 

It makes me feel bad because I put the Cantons next to my corn horns and they wipe the floor In about every way with them. Although, they are a bit bright for my tastes. 


 

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AFA37FF0-9127-475D-9064-75535C83CBC1.jpeg

Edited by NotThisChris
Listening to Cantons.
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You know it's not always a slippery slope... sometimes it's a cliff.

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12 hours ago, NotThisChris said:

I found a pair of Canton Ergo 900’s and Klipsch Heresys at Goodwill for about 60 bucks total. I’m now focused on these because I legitimately can’t believe I stumbled upon this.

 

That was a very good find.  Congratulations.

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