Toolmaker Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 Just learning about these speakers... How do I know which terminal is the positive? Is it the one on the right? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted May 20, 2020 Share Posted May 20, 2020 5 hours ago, Toolmaker said: Just learning about these speakers... How do I know which terminal is the positive? Is it the one on the right? the very easy , and, to be on the safer side ------------------open the rear cover, by removing the screws -------and you will see the lamp cord wire inside the cab ,the lamp cord will show the positive and negative Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Toolmaker Posted May 21, 2020 Author Share Posted May 21, 2020 Thanks Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 On 5/20/2020 at 6:14 PM, RANDYH said: very easy , and, to be on the safer side ------------------open the rear cover, by removing the screws -------and you will see the lamp cord wire inside the cab ,the lamp cord will show the positive and negative OR, just wipe off the dust so that you can find the one marked in RED for POSITIVE...which APPEARS to be the right one! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 1 minute ago, HDBRbuilder said: OR, just wipe off the dust so that you can find the one marked in RED for POSITIVE...which APPEARS to be the right one! do you recommend replacing them with newer binding posts and terminal plates -- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted May 24, 2020 Share Posted May 24, 2020 1 hour ago, RANDYH said: do you recommend replacing them with newer binding posts and terminal plates -- Not really...I prefer bare wire connections, myself...just remove them, clean them up good and get any crud off of them and clean up the machine screw threads and threaded inserts... on them! Replace the connectors, Hook up all the wires, tighten all the screws snugly, and it's rock'n'roll time! I don'lt get hung up on all the cable and terminal yakkety-yak very much, mostly because I know that each and every additional connection (can you say SPLICE???) causes more loss of signal energy getting from point A to point B, due to resistance created from "splicing". It is what it is! Each additional transition along the line also acts as a splice, resistance-wise! Any electrician can tell ya that! GOLD-PLATED fancy connectors at wired ends or not! The addition of them equals at least one additional "splice" in the line! Since they are so old, I would suggest cleaning up all the wired connections everywhere...at crossovers, and also at drivers if not soldered! Get rid of all of that electrical resistance that has accumulated over the years! It DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Check your network can-style capacitors for leakage before firing them up! If any are leaking they all need to be replaced first FOR SURE! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 4 hours ago, HDBRbuilder said: Since they are so old, I would suggest cleaning up all the wired connections everywhere...at crossovers, and also at drivers if not soldered! Get rid of all of that electrical resistance that has accumulated over the years! It DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Check your network can-style capacitors for leakage before firing them up! If any are leaking they all need to be replaced first FOR SURE! I will do as you recommended , much obliged Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyroadster Posted May 25, 2020 Share Posted May 25, 2020 (edited) Good evening, I am new to the forum and I hope the moderators will start my entry. I write from Italy and I found your nice forum. Meanwhile, I hope you will forgive my inaccurate writing. I have heard of Klipsch Cornwall speakers in which the serial numbers 25U212 and 25U211 are present on the upper rear could you please tell me if they are original and the date of construction? I really liked their dynamic sweet sound and complete, too bad that the previous owner played with them, you can see the white glue I assume vinyl on the woofers. what do you advise me to do, can it be a good purchase? thanks!! Edited May 26, 2020 by robyroadster change the size of the photos Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyroadster Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyroadster Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 On 5/24/2020 at 11:15 PM, HDBRbuilder said: Not really...I prefer bare wire connections, myself...just remove them, clean them up good and get any crud off of them and clean up the machine screw threads and threaded inserts... on them! Replace the connectors, Hook up all the wires, tighten all the screws snugly, and it's rock'n'roll time! I don'lt get hung up on all the cable and terminal yakkety-yak very much, mostly because I know that each and every additional connection (can you say SPLICE???) causes more loss of signal energy getting from point A to point B, due to resistance created from "splicing". It is what it is! Each additional transition along the line also acts as a splice, resistance-wise! Any electrician can tell ya that! GOLD-PLATED fancy connectors at wired ends or not! The addition of them equals at least one additional "splice" in the line! Since they are so old, I would suggest cleaning up all the wired connections everywhere...at crossovers, and also at drivers if not soldered! Get rid of all of that electrical resistance that has accumulated over the years! It DOES MAKE A DIFFERENCE! Check your network can-style capacitors for leakage before firing them up! If any are leaking they all need to be replaced first FOR SURE! The things that fly are done well and you know it😀 Sorry I would like to upload other images but it does not make me insert them even if I have reduced the format. I hope that some breakage is not hidden behind the glue, especially if it has been replaced to cover any breakages. Is the dust cover of that size correct or has it been replaced? Thank you very much Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 12 hours ago, robyroadster said: Good evening, I am new to the forum and I hope the moderators will start my entry. I write from Italy and I found your nice forum. Meanwhile, I hope you will forgive my inaccurate writing. I have heard of Klipsch Cornwall speakers in which the serial numbers 25U212 and 25U211 are present on the upper rear could you please tell me if they are original and the date of construction? I really liked their dynamic sweet sound and complete, too bad that the previous owner played with them, you can see the white glue I assume vinyl on the woofers. what do you advise me to do, can it be a good purchase? thanks!! welcome to the forum the U in the serial number means they were built in 1980 which would make them Cornwall 1's 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyroadster Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 20 minutes ago, Budman said: welcome to the forum the U in the serial number means they were built in 1980 which would make them Cornwall 1's Many thanks for the information! do you think it has alnico magnets? Is the woofer dust cover the correct size? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted May 26, 2020 Share Posted May 26, 2020 Are you still thinking of purchasing these, or do you own them? The “repairs” to that woofer are cosmetically poor, but could be fine. Unless I were using those in a garage, workshop, etc., where appearance is unimportant, I would recone or replace both woofers. If they sound fine and appearance is unimportant, leave them alone. If you can get photos resized to be tolerated by the server, please post more photos, including photos of the insides. Benvenuto! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyroadster Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyroadster Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 On 5/26/2020 at 1:33 PM, DizRotus said: Are you still thinking of purchasing these, or do you own them? The “repairs” to that woofer are cosmetically poor, but could be fine. Unless I were using those in a garage, workshop, etc., where appearance is unimportant, I would recone or replace both woofers. If they sound fine and appearance is unimportant, leave them alone. If you can get photos resized to be tolerated by the server, please post more photos, including photos of the insides. Benvenuto! These are the other photos, I didn't buy them but I listened to them. I tried to move the woofer and felt no friction. Who knows why they did that bad job with glue ..... As I said earlier, I liked the sound and I lack a pair of high efficiency speakers in my collection. The price is 1800 Euros or 1980 American dollars. Are prices in the united states aligned with this or are they cheaper on average? What do you think about the possible purchase? Can you tell me based on the serial number if the magnets are in alnico? The canvases are a little ruined do you know if Kipsch sells the only canvas to put on the frames? Thanks. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Budman Posted May 27, 2020 Share Posted May 27, 2020 1980 Cornwall Birch Raw stained walnut these would sell in the US for roughly $700 if they are hard to come by in your area you might have 2 1/2 times more than what their worth ? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HDBRbuilder Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 19 hours ago, robyroadster said: These are the other photos, I didn't buy them but I listened to them. I tried to move the woofer and felt no friction. Who knows why they did that bad job with glue ..... As I said earlier, I liked the sound and I lack a pair of high efficiency speakers in my collection. The price is 1800 Euros or 1980 American dollars. Are prices in the united states aligned with this or are they cheaper on average? What do you think about the possible purchase? Can you tell me based on the serial number if the magnets are in alnico? The canvases are a little ruined do you know if Kipsch sells the only canvas to put on the frames? Thanks. In 1980, I was the primary builder of all the Cornwall cabinets...unless I was on vacation or took a day off, I was likely the lead builder of these, along with having a helper. Your tweeters should be the K77M (NOT alnico magnet!)!)...your mid-range compression driver should be the K55V (IS alnico magnet)) and your woofers should be K33 (NOT alnico magnets) The crossover network should be a "B" network. If I remember correctly we were still using the K55V mid-range driver for all of 1980 builds. The "not alnico" magnets (your tweeter and woofer magnets) would have been made from a ferrous mud slurry, compressed and baked to become a square ferrite magnet. Early on we had a few quality control issues with these ferrous-magneted drivers...but that was quickly turned around! So your drivers should be good to go. Whomever replaced the voice-coil dust cover did a really ugly job of it, and it appears it was not even the correct dustcover for that particular woofer. Having really "white-appearance" on those woofer cones MOST LIKELY means that those cones were heavily exposed to direct sunlight for a number of years....meaning they spent lots of time with their grille-cloth panels removed. From what I can tell, the cabinets look pretty good for their age, though! They are CB-R models, I guess, unless the birch plywood was stained walnut at the factory. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyroadster Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 11 hours ago, Budman said: 1980 Cornwall Birch Raw stained walnut these would sell in the US for roughly $700 if they are hard to come by in your area you might have 2 1/2 times more than what their worth ? Many thanks for the information, in Italy the price ranges from 1800 euros to 2200 euros, o be multiplied by 1.1 to convert to dollars, then I also found some Klipsch Ortho 15 at 3500 euros in a shop and the owner says that they are very rare and they sound very good. Maybe you can tell me why Ortho sound better? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyroadster Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 3 hours ago, HDBRbuilder said: In 1980, I was the primary builder of all the Cornwall cabinets...unless I was on vacation or took a day off, I was likely the lead builder of these, along with having a helper. Your tweeters should be the K77M (NOT alnico magnet!)!)...your mid-range compression driver should be the K55V (IS alnico magnet)) and your woofers should be K33 (NOT alnico magnets) The crossover network should be a "B" network. If I remember correctly we were still using the K55V mid-range driver for all of 1980 builds. THe not alnico magnets (yhour tweeter and woofer magnets) would have been made from a ferrous mud slurry, compressed and baked to become a square ferrite magnet. Early on we had a few quality control issues with these ferrous magneted drivers...but that was quickly turned around! So your drivers should be good to go. Whomever replaced the voice-coil dust cover did a really ugly job of it, and it appears it was not even the correct dustcover for that particular woofer. Having really "white-appearance on those woofer cones MOST LIKELY means that those cones were heavily exposed to direct sunlight for a number of years....meaning they spent lots of time with their grille-cloth panels removed. From what I can tell, the cabinets look pretty good for their age, though! They are CB-R models, I guess, unless the birch plywood was stained walnut at the factory. It is a pleasure to read your comments and I think it is lucky for this forum! The problem is understanding why the dust cover has been changed. I will ask the owner of the photos of the interior and in particular of the internal side surface of the woofer near the suspension and near the dust cover I have seen woofers on the web with much smaller dust covers, are you referring to these when you talk about the size of the dust cover? Thanks again! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
robyroadster Posted May 28, 2020 Share Posted May 28, 2020 11 hours ago, HDBRbuilder said: In 1980, I was the primary builder of all the Cornwall cabinets...unless I was on vacation or took a day off, I was likely the lead builder of these, along with having a helper. Your tweeters should be the K77M (NOT alnico magnet!)!)...your mid-range compression driver should be the K55V (IS alnico magnet)) and your woofers should be K33 (NOT alnico magnets) The crossover network should be a "B" network. If I remember correctly we were still using the K55V mid-range driver for all of 1980 builds. THe not alnico magnets (yhour tweeter and woofer magnets) would have been made from a ferrous mud slurry, compressed and baked to become a square ferrite magnet. Early on we had a few quality control issues with these ferrous magneted drivers...but that was quickly turned around! So your drivers should be good to go. Whomever replaced the voice-coil dust cover did a really ugly job of it, and it appears it was not even the correct dustcover for that particular woofer. Having really "white-appearance on those woofer cones MOST LIKELY means that those cones were heavily exposed to direct sunlight for a number of years....meaning they spent lots of time with their grille-cloth panels removed. From what I can tell, the cabinets look pretty good for their age, though! They are CB-R models, I guess, unless the birch plywood was stained walnut at the factory. It is probably for the medium in alnico that I felt that pleasant sweetness in such frequency. Well below are the photos the shopkeeper sent me after cleaning the disaster of the previous owner and the photos of the interior. HDBRbuilder, do you confirm that only the medium is in alico and that my serial number is compatible with the components you have mounted if you weren't on holiday?😀 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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