ryanlahay2002 Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 Hey all, first time posting here. Hopefully this is the right area for this post, let me know if not. Recently picked up this pair of heresy HBR 1's in rough shape. They were painted terribly with some type of black paint. So far I've managed to sand down the top and one side, took me a very long time, lol. So here's my question, as you can see there's quite a few chips in the wood, I would like to keep them in the raw birch, but obviously after I fill in the chips with wood filler, it will no longer match what so ever Do you think it would be acceptable to paint the sides with the chips in a flat black paint (to cover the wood filler) and keep the tops of each in the raw birch? Any tips or recommendations welcome. I've seen quite a few good ideas throughout these forums before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mallette Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 Flat or glossy piano black looks awesome. Did that to some Fraziers for the same reasons. Dave Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted June 14, 2020 Share Posted June 14, 2020 1 hour ago, ryanlahay2002 said: Do you think it would be acceptable to paint the sides with the chips in a flat black paint (to cover the wood filler) and keep the tops of each in the raw birch? veneering with an iron ,or glue on the veneer on these speakers can be very inexpensive in any finish , you can laminate birch , oak etc in 1/4 inch panels which can give a new , cleaner look , all you need is the top and sides ------my Heresies are painted black and when the music plays , what matters is how good they sound , the rest is purely cosmetic 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted June 15, 2020 Share Posted June 15, 2020 I would suggest sanding all the sides down and filling all the bad spots with a good plastic wood, then order 1 gallon of this: https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Heat-Lock-Veneer-Glue.html and, one of these: https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Veneer-Glue-Roller.html And a 4 x8 sheet of paperback veneer of your choice, birch if that is what you like. https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/birch-veneer-white-flat-cut.html Then pick your poison as for the finish you want. On my Heresy3s, I did not refurbish the cabinets, I built new cabinets from scratch and then veneered with Flatcut Walnut. I used Rubio Monocoat oil plus 2c, Pure (which has no colour tint) to finish mine. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
meeker1 Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 Those are some great looking cabinets! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted June 16, 2020 Share Posted June 16, 2020 14 hours ago, HPower said: I would suggest sanding all the sides down and filling all the bad spots with a good plastic wood, then order 1 gallon of this: https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Better-Bond-Heat-Lock-Veneer-Glue.html and, one of these: https://www.veneersupplies.com/products/Veneer-Glue-Roller.html And a 4 x8 sheet of paperback veneer of your choice, birch if that is what you like. https://www.oakwoodveneer.com/birch-veneer-white-flat-cut.html Then pick your poison as for the finish you want. On my Heresy3s, I did not refurbish the cabinets, I built new cabinets from scratch and then veneered with Flatcut Walnut. I used Rubio Monocoat oil plus 2c, Pure (which has no colour tint) to finish mine. great looking veneer ----- Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanlahay2002 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 (edited) Thanks for the input guys. I decided a few days ago im going to re do them in a walnut veneer. The pics that HPower posted make me want to do walnut even more. One other thing I wanted to do was make the front edges of the cabinet flush with the rest of the front, as I've seen many people do. Any idea on how I would do this effectively ? TIA Also, does anyone have plans/dimensions for the orginal Heresy stands? I would like to build some. Edited June 18, 2020 by ryanlahay2002 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DizRotus Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 On 6/13/2020 at 10:07 PM, RandyH 000 said: . . . my Heresies are painted black and when the music plays , what matters is how good they sound , the rest is purely cosmetic. My sentiments exactly. Although I admire the patience and skill necessary to produce fine furniture finished speakers, those days are in the past for me. Despite successfully applying real Brazilian rosewood (when it was still legal) on several speakers, as well as oak veneer on the DIY LS3/5a (shown below) now in the stewardship of Claude @ClaudeJ1, Bondo and Duratex are my friends now. Please share photos of your progress. You have a good target in those beautiful speakers @HPower built. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 Hey ryan, If you want to cut off the front edges to turn your H1s into a "Designer" look, I would suggest using a router with a Flush Cut bit. https://www.amazon.com/Freud-Bearing-Flush-Shank-42-114/dp/B0000225YC/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=router+bit+trimming&qid=1592479123&sr=8-4 If you look closely at the 1st pic in my post with my cabinets in the raw birch construction stage you will see my panels are all over size in one direction. this is on purpose so that I can then flush cut with router to get a perfect corner. After routing a bit of sanding with an orbital sander and you are ready for the veneer. Same technique with the veneer, cut your veneer pieces slightly oversize and trim them after you iron on the veneer. I trim with an Olfa cutter for the veneer as the router can be a little heavy handed. https://www.amazon.com/OLFA-1072198-Fiberglass-Heavy-Duty-Utility/dp/B000GIO2TG/ref=sr_1_6?dchild=1&keywords=olfa+cutter&qid=1592479980&sr=8-6 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 As per Bob Crites website for his risers: Dimensions of these risers. 14 inches wide, 12.25 inches deep, 2.5 inches tall at the front, .75 inches tall at the back. 1 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 PS: In case you did not go to Joe's web site yet, here is a link to his helpful page for Tips, Tricks, and More. https://www.joewoodworker.com/veneering/frequently-asked-questions.htm 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanlahay2002 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 Thank you very much. You have been very helpful. I recently made another post about how I need new autotransformers for one of my crossovers. (Tweeter and midrange dont work, but read just fine with a multimeter) Jim from JEMPerformanceAudio walked me through the steps to figure out what was was broken in the first place, as I thought it was just the caps I needed. Anyways I found the 3636 and 3654 on Bob Crites website, are these to klipsch spec? As in will I be able to replace just the one thats broken and not have my speakers sound different ? Or will I need to replace both? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted June 18, 2020 Share Posted June 18, 2020 I am not sure about Crite ATs matching exactly what is in your Xover, maybe shoot Bob a call and ask. Allow me 😇 to spend some more of your money Ryan. If you are going to the time and expense to refinish the outsides, I would suggest redoing the crossovers by either: Buying 2 new autotransformers, and Bob's repair kit. Model 3636 $38.00 each. REBUILD KIT FOR THE KLIPSCH TYPE E CROSSOVERS: $48.00 pair. Or, for the more expensive and lazier route: New pair of TYPE E CROSSOVERS: $191.00 pair. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanlahay2002 Posted June 18, 2020 Author Share Posted June 18, 2020 Haha, I've been thinking about it. The ONLY reason I'm debating going with crites is, I've heard from some people who actually work at klipsch, that his stuff isn't exactly to klipsch specs. Although it may improve the sound, I like to keep them as close to "original" as possible. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HPower Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 6 hours ago, ryanlahay2002 said: Haha, I've been thinking about it. The ONLY reason I'm debating going with crites is, I've heard from some people who actually work at klipsch, that his stuff isn't exactly to klipsch specs. Although it may improve the sound, I like to keep them as close to "original" as possible. The way I see it, Bob is one of the three or so go2 guys around here for crossover help. He is also probably the one that stays closest to the OEM Klipsch formula. The other two gurus are Dean and ALK, who try to extract more out of their networks. Bob's Xovers are Klipsch designs, just updated with modest caps that are new and not old and tired like the 20, 30 , 40 year old worn out ones that came from the factory. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 7 hours ago, ryanlahay2002 said: Haha, I've been thinking about it. The ONLY reason I'm debating going with crites is, I've heard from some people who actually work at klipsch, that his stuff isn't exactly to klipsch specs. Although it may improve the sound, I like to keep them as close to "original" as possible. Well, duh, it's not in Klipsch's best interest to promote parts that will keep old Heritage stuff alive instead of you buying new. No surprise there, but there is no debate about Bob's integrity, personal or technical! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OO1 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 5 minutes ago, ClaudeJ1 said: Well, duh, it's not in Klipsch's best interest to promote parts that will keep old Heritage stuff alive there are tons of older Heritage speakers out there ----and tons of money they are losing of sales of original parts -----betcha it could be very profitable as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ryanlahay2002 Posted June 19, 2020 Author Share Posted June 19, 2020 Very true guys. If only I was in the US I would've already ordered and got it over with. Now unless I can find an autotransformer in Canada that matches (which I doubt), i will go ahead and order the autotransformer from Bob. Now for the caps, bobs "repair kit" costs 48$... and all you get is the caps, "mounting clips" and zip ties. Am I wrong in thinking I could simply order the same 4 caps alone from somewhere for less than half the price? And make my own mounts? Also, thanks for the riser plans. Built them today, although not exactly to the dimensions listed, they work perfect going to put the walnut veneer on them as practice before i do the cabinets. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ClaudeJ1 Posted June 19, 2020 Share Posted June 19, 2020 14 hours ago, ryanlahay2002 said: Now unless I can find an autotransformer in Canada that matches (which I doubt), i will go ahead and order the autotransformer from Bob. Bob's Autoformers are SUPERIOR to Klipsch's T2A's because you can step them in 1 dB increments instead of 3 dB increments, which are very crude in comparison. Worth it, IMHO. I've owned them both and speak from experience. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ZINDA89 Posted July 8, 2020 Share Posted July 8, 2020 I think the pictures will say it all, just be ready to put some time and money into them. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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